Why sad and what clunk?
CK5
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Th350 removal
- Thread starter TJ1978
- Start date
Why sad and what clunk?
I was envisioning the 2x4 flat on the support as in this screen grab . but from your description im seeing the 2x4 going vertical from jack to hold engine in place, correct.
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Whatever clunk I felt was eliminated... after i got it to move, it shifted into gear fine.
T
tenderfoot
Guest
What about a 2x4 long enough to reach both frame rails and a couple clamps?
They make equipment just for this, such as this:
https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html
However, even that that cheap a price, its a little much for a one time job, when wood is so cheap and you probably already have a jack.
Remember though, floor jacks, unless they are the scissor type, swing over as they lift. If they can roll along as they lift that usually works OK, but if not, they tend to shift the load over.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html
However, even that that cheap a price, its a little much for a one time job, when wood is so cheap and you probably already have a jack.
Remember though, floor jacks, unless they are the scissor type, swing over as they lift. If they can roll along as they lift that usually works OK, but if not, they tend to shift the load over.
I have an idea to rig something up with what I have and some wood. Ive spent enough thus far. I certainly dont need to buy an engine support for what I hope will be a one-time thing. This job should last a while, I hope.
I've used pipe about 1-1/2" diameter across the fenders as an engine support before..
I also used some square street sign tubing I had,that has holes every inch or so,I got several pieces that slid inside one another,that lets you adjust the width so it'll work on a lot of vehicles..
A hunk of 4x4 post would get you buy most likely too..
I also used some square street sign tubing I had,that has holes every inch or so,I got several pieces that slid inside one another,that lets you adjust the width so it'll work on a lot of vehicles..
A hunk of 4x4 post would get you buy most likely too..
I would not put anything under a gen 1 stock pan they bend far to easy, once bent it will never seal. hell they are hard enough to to seal when new.
use the 2x4 vertical under the exhaust manifold between cyls 5 and 7 then roll jack under end of 2x4 to support motor.
A brace across fenders/Hood hinges will work too with a chain to back of heads or intake. Once I used a fwd engine support to hold up the engine. Similar to this
https://smile.amazon.com/Goplus-110...ords=fwd+engine+support&qid=1577213073&sr=8-4
use the 2x4 vertical under the exhaust manifold between cyls 5 and 7 then roll jack under end of 2x4 to support motor.
A brace across fenders/Hood hinges will work too with a chain to back of heads or intake. Once I used a fwd engine support to hold up the engine. Similar to this
https://smile.amazon.com/Goplus-110...ords=fwd+engine+support&qid=1577213073&sr=8-4
Kickdown cable removal:
Remove from carb area or try to pry out from tranny? Seems a tight fit to remove from tranny while still in vehicle? I may end up just buying a new one, they arent terribly expensive.
Any tips or suggestions?
Remove from carb area or try to pry out from tranny? Seems a tight fit to remove from tranny while still in vehicle? I may end up just buying a new one, they arent terribly expensive.
Any tips or suggestions?
I always left it connected to the transmission,took it off at the carb--you must drop the pan to get it off the valve it operates..
definitely easier to pull it off the carb. However I’ve never had to pull the pan to swap a kickdown cable. Just replaced one a couple months ago on the C10
Should I mark the position on the cable to carb so I can put it back in the same spot or does it matter?
wouldn’t hurt.
No you don't.
It's easy enough to get it off at the transmission now that I dealt with it on both ends.
If you keep it on the transmission you risk breaking it when you handle the transmission
I had replaced one broken cable "in the vehicle" without pulling the pan down,but it was such a hassle (for me at least) I never tried it again,I just left it in the transmission on future transmission swaps..also the one I did in the vehicle leaked like a sieve afterwards..leaving it intact avoids that problem..
What is the technique to remove it from the tranny? I was poking around yesterday... do i just pull up on it?
should be a small bolt holding it in the trans. Once you remove bolt slide cover up and out of trans, cable end should be exposed, then you can slide end of spring loaded rod in trans.
Ok cool. Its at an awkward angle plus inches of crud, i couldn’t see and the interweb didnt help.
Im going to try and dig in tomorrow. Remove kickdown and cooler lines plus the twin stick I just installed. Been a bit under the weather and unmotivated to go in the cold garage.
