A crescent wrench works also but it's better to have the 9/16 wrench.
CK5
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Th350 removal
- Thread starter TJ1978
- Start date
vandelay industries
1/2 ton status
Another thing that may help in conjunction with the 9/16" box, as well as working on the engine in general, is one of those topside creeper things:
https://traxionproducts.com/products/topside-creeper
But weighing the price of a topside creeper, it may be cheaper and more efficient just to get a 20"extension and wobble socket for bellhousing bolts.
I used extensions and duct tape with socket... i have wobbles now, but to remove the above worked fine, enough
I just lay on the engine, it is only 2 bolts
A sheet of plywood was my only "topside creeper "!..lay a blanket over the fenders and plop on the plywood,and its a lot more comfortable than having to lay on the engine..
I went to get new straps for the rear drive shaft to Tcase. The rear output shaft on the black Tcase a tad more narrow than the green output shaft. I assume for a different size Ujoint.
I assume the Black Tcase is 1310 and my Grenn Tcase is 1350, which is the Ujoint I haveon the drive shaft.
Can I just take the Ujoint yoke off the green Tcase and put it on the black one?
I assume the Black Tcase is 1310 and my Grenn Tcase is 1350, which is the Ujoint I haveon the drive shaft.
Can I just take the Ujoint yoke off the green Tcase and put it on the black one?
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Example
Also what size nut is that on the rear yoke? I have upto 32mm sockets and they dont fit. 34 or?
1 5/16" socket.
Damn, back to amazon... haha. Seems oreillys has one in stock for $5 more than amazon...
I assume that yoke can be swapped?
View attachment 327548
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Yeah it can be swapped, hopefully the neck is the same size so you don't have to change the seal
Seems ok to me. Ran out of black paint, so... Also the red didnt look as good the next day. So, black it is, I did keep that plate on the side Red for whatever...
Was a bit odd to get the nut on, seeing as it just spins and holding, anyway etc etc... I just used my impact.
Was a bit odd to get the nut on, seeing as it just spins and holding, anyway etc etc... I just used my impact.
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wasted wages
1 ton status
nut doesn't look like it's on far enough,
if it is tightened down already.... fwiw..
if it is tightened down already.... fwiw..
There is the metal washer on the outside, then that rubber washer thing with the teeth on the inside. It cant go down or deeper on the threads.. you can see in the above pics the 1310 yoke nut went deeper on the threads.
This yoke 1350 is a bit longer as seen in theabove pics.
The yoke on the green Tcase threaded down the same as it is on the black one.
Is it safe enough to run? Loctite it and go?
wasted wages
1 ton status
make sure the splines are good and the counts are the same on the shaft and yoke.
The yoke needs to bottom against the internal step on the shaft or up against a bearing race inside the case.
I would check out the reason the issue exists...I don't think locktite is your answer...
The yoke needs to bottom against the internal step on the shaft or up against a bearing race inside the case.
I would check out the reason the issue exists...I don't think locktite is your answer...
Will do. But it cant go any further in the Tcase. It bottoms out in there. The splines match up from what I could tell. But Ill give it another look tomorrow. You can see in the pics above, the difference in length of yokes is roughly those 2-3 threads on the nut
Here is why, yoke in Red is 1350 ujoint. Yoke in black is 1310...
So, it ran fine before on the green Tcase with the nut theead engagement. The only way to get more thread engagement on the output shaft is if I dont use the metal washer between the yoke and nut...otherwise this is it.
@imiceman44 its cool to run like this? I mean I have no other options. So loctite the nut and impact it on and go
So, it ran fine before on the green Tcase with the nut theead engagement. The only way to get more thread engagement on the output shaft is if I dont use the metal washer between the yoke and nut...otherwise this is it.
@imiceman44 its cool to run like this? I mean I have no other options. So loctite the nut and impact it on and go
Which u joint does drive shaft use.
Drive shaft will different length as well.
Thou 1350 is better off road ujoint of the 2.
You could possibly have a machine shop cut nut side, where washer sits, down 3/16". Depending on the amount of material in area.
Drive shaft will different length as well.
Thou 1350 is better off road ujoint of the 2.
You could possibly have a machine shop cut nut side, where washer sits, down 3/16". Depending on the amount of material in area.
Drive shaft was just balanced and new 1350 U joints were put in. To replace the old 1350 Ujoints which paired with these yokes...
I was thinking of finding a slimmer washer or making it more slim. Either way it ran with this set up for untold years with the previous owner. Or maybe a shop can shave a 1/4 inch off the yoke? But Im tapped on $ so I can do that down the road
The only reason I brought it up was the straps didnt fit the yoke that was on the Black Tcase originally, which turns out to be 1310. Which I wasnt aware of or even noticed until.... anyway. Since I have 1350 Ujoints on the drive shaft I switched the yoke from my green Tcase.
Honestly Im just going to run it. I cant afford anymore “stuff” and it ran this way before, so...
The output shaft on the new tcase is different, I am guessing it is shorter.
This stuff happens to me all the time when exchanging parts on old cars, 1 thing effects everything down the line.
Leave the washer put blue locktite.
Run it see how you like it. Might be more mods down the road
This stuff happens to me all the time when exchanging parts on old cars, 1 thing effects everything down the line.
Leave the washer put blue locktite.
Run it see how you like it. Might be more mods down the road
