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Th350 removal

Yeah, things are just snowballing (as they always do) and my wallet is hemorrhaging. So as you stated, I put some blue Loctite on and impacted it down. It ran this way with the Green Tcase, so in theory by putting the yoke from the Green to the Black tcase, all should be as it was (same drive line but fixed, same Ujoints (new) and straps though new) . Just a slightly less beat to shiz Tcase.... if not, I’ll deal with it then...
 
Drive shaft was just balanced and new 1350 U joints were put in. To replace the old 1350 Ujoints which paired with these yokes...

I was thinking of finding a slimmer washer or making it more slim. Either way it ran with this set up for untold years with the previous owner. Or maybe a shop can shave a 1/4 inch off the yoke? But Im tapped on $ so I can do that down the road

The only reason I brought it up was the straps didnt fit the yoke that was on the Black Tcase originally, which turns out to be 1310. Which I wasnt aware of or even noticed until.... anyway. Since I have 1350 Ujoints on the drive shaft I switched the yoke from my green Tcase.

Honestly Im just going to run it. I cant afford anymore “stuff” and it ran this way before, so...
If the nut is flanged and the flange covers the splines I say skip the washer and run it.
Don't forget to put some rtv under it to seal the oil coming through the splines.
 
If the nut is flanged and the flange covers the splines I say skip the washer and run it.
Don't forget to put some rtv under it to seal the oil coming through the splines.

Put RTV on the splines then put the nut on that? (Confused)

It has one of those rubber washers that fit on the splines which I assume is to prevent oil leaking.

Nut is Flanged, covers splines (see above pic)
 
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Put RTV on the splines then put the nut on that? (Confused)

It has one of those rubber washers that fit on the splines which I assume is to prevent oil leaking.

Nut is Flanged, covers splines (see above pic)
If you have the rubber washer you don't need the rtv.
As far as impact goes, if you have at least 3/4 of the nut then okay.
If not then I would not use the impact
 
Shop say what was wrong?

The guy is local in AZ, works out of his garage.
But, age mostly. A half-assed rebuild in its past, some melted plastic washer things inside that should have been metal and a lot of dirt in the valve body and a few other things.
 
The 4 mounting bolts for the adapter on the back of the trans housing are notorious for stripping out or pulling the threads on the case.

As a suggestion, I always install 4- grade 8
studs, with blue locktite and then back up the studs with lock washers and 3/8" nuts.
The studs need to be long enough to pass thru the case flange and then put the nuts on the end of the studs and tighten them up against the case.

There is a lot of weight that has to be supported by those 4 bolts. I have seen several transfer cases fall off when those threads in the rear of the trans give out.

Anyway, just my .02 ,,, may save you some headaches...
 
The 4 mounting bolts for the adapter on the back of the trans housing are notorious for stripping out or pulling the threads on the case.

As a suggestion, I always install 4- grade 8
studs, with blue locktite and then back up the studs with lock washers and 3/8" nuts.
The studs need to be long enough to pass thru the case flange and then put the nuts on the end of the studs and tighten them up against the case.

There is a lot of weight that has to be supported by those 4 bolts. I have seen several transfer cases fall off when those threads in the rear of the trans give out.

Anyway, just my .02 ,,, may save you some headaches...

Any pics?
 
nope....I only have a T-400/203/205 doubler now...

but,, I have done many of them for myself and friends in the past...
 
I do a similar thing, I use a longer bolt that pokes through the back and I put a nut on it to lock it in. I will try to take pictures.

Basically the same thing, only studding the case can be done easily out in the open before the trans install... then the 4 studs help line up the transfer case when that is installed...

If the two are going to be bolted together prior to installation, then it doesn't matter.

The main point is the 4 bolt holes on the
T-350 are know to be a problematic area and can use all the help they can get!
 
I was using the internet machine for grade 8 studs and not seeing much. All that would come up were grade 8 bolts.

I guess, I could use longer bolts and have them go through the Tranny threads holes and put a washer and nut there?

Since its just me, I may have to install these separately. Tranny then Tcase. But I may fiddle with it see what Im comfortable with doing myself.

Edit: pretty much what @imiceman44 Said
 
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Basically the same thing, only studding the case can be done easily out in the open before the trans install... then the 4 studs help line up the transfer case when that is installed...

If the two are going to be bolted together prior to installation, then it doesn't matter.

The main point is the 4 bolt holes on the
T-350 are know to be a problematic area and can use all the help they can get!
You do realize this is a 203, the bolts go from the inside of the adapter. You can not have the stud sticking out.
 
I'd have to see the adapter plate....it's been a while since I've done one...

maybe thinking of the T400 plate,,, but I'm pretty sure I've done it this way before..
If the four bolt holes on the adapter plate are on a flange and not threaded, I can't see why it couldn't be studded...
 
Studs where and how will a longer bolt go through the tranny? The ones I have only tnread so far

C19BDEB1-DD05-40EB-B97D-DF30650BFB8A.jpeg
 
Plus these bolts for the adapter appear to be a special bolt... I dont see this style in grade 8 or otherwise. They have a washer type thing on them thae goes into a groove on the adapter Hmm..??

65966CD1-407B-4678-A781-49970CBE40D0.jpeg

89174AAA-D775-46DC-9E2B-922123195D97.jpeg
 
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