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thank god for side adjusters!

mike reeh

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man they are gods gift to R&P installers.. I never want to work on another dana axle again after doing this toyota 8" with side adjusters.. TO HELL WITH CARRIER SHIMS!!

mike
 
mike reeh said:
man they are gods gift to R&P installers.. I never want to work on another dana axle again after doing this toyota 8" with side adjusters.. TO HELL WITH CARRIER SHIMS!!

mike

You mean like the twisties in a 14BFF?

Yeah, they're sweet, huh?

-- A
 
I've always wanted to rebuild my 14FF... sounds like I'm in for more than what my patience will allow... but if that's the case, then I guess I better pay somebody else to get pissed off at it.
 
BadAss90K5 said:
I've always wanted to rebuild my 14FF... sounds like I'm in for more than what my patience will allow... but if that's the case, then I guess I better pay somebody else to get pissed off at it.

Eh? No, they're a piece of cake. Well, the pinion is a PITA, I gather, but the carrier is easy, cuz you don't need shims ... there are rotating adjusters on each side with a latch to hold them in place to a specific depth.

-- A
 
BadAss90K5 said:
I've always wanted to rebuild my 14FF... sounds like I'm in for more than what my patience will allow... but if that's the case, then I guess I better pay somebody else to get pissed off at it.
A 14FF is prolly just as easy as a yota axle to set up, no need in going a paying someone to do it. I set mine up in aboot 1 hour and it was the first time I had done a gear set. The one hour did not include crushing the crush sleave that took aboot 2 hours by itself. Just takes a long time to get it to start the crush once it goes it goes quick so be careful.

Ira
 
yeah ive never really had to work on a 14FF other than to change pinion seals.. they just dont break :)

badass90k5- if you dont plan on doing more than one in the next couple years, youre better off having someone else do it... you need several hundred dollars worth of specialty tools to begin with... i enjoy it, but then again im a freak :)
 
Hmm... I might be able to pull this off...Still gotta get a dial indicator and a bearing puller.
 
mike reeh said:
yeah ive never really had to work on a 14FF other than to change pinion seals.. they just dont break :)

badass90k5- if you dont plan on doing more than one in the next couple years, youre better off having someone else do it... you need several hundred dollars worth of specialty tools to begin with... i enjoy it, but then again im a freak :)

Several hundred for a 14FF? I used a dial indicator that I paid $25 for and a $12 mag base and my $20 3 jaw puller from Kragen to pull the old bearings. That is the extent of the specialty tools. Now a Dana 60 that is another story I have not done one of those but I will soon enough as 5.13s will be going in:D

Ira
 
sandawgk5 said:
Several hundred for a 14FF? I used a dial indicator that I paid $25 for and a $12 mag base and my $20 3 jaw puller from Kragen to pull the old bearings. That is the extent of the specialty tools. Now a Dana 60 that is another story I have not done one of those but I will soon enough as 5.13s will be going in:D

Ira

What about punch, bearing puller, press, impact gun, sockets, race installers, ect. yes several hundred dollars.
 
like i said i havent worked extensively on a 14FF... How is the pinion depth set? Shims? Where are the shims located? behind the outter or inner bearing race?

the last rear end i setup, the depth was set with shims behind the INNER RACE which means the bearing had to be pressed on and off for each check.. you need a quality bearing separator, a press, a dial indicator, etc etc.. depending on what tools you have to begin with, to do it right you need several little things too like brass punches, a torque wrench, something to measure bearing preload.. its gonna add up quick. well worth the price though, since youre setup for the next time you have to install the gears.
 
I'm definitely paying somebody to do the D60 after I buy one. I had a friend who said "Oh yeah I just put the exact number of old shims back in right where they came out"... ended up grenading his ring gear.
tsk tsk tsk
 
Last edited:
I have everything except dial indicator and race installers. I just remembered I have 3 jaw bearing pullers still in the box.
 
K5MONSTERCHEV said:
What about punch, bearing puller, press, impact gun, sockets, race installers, ect. yes several hundred dollars.

Press and race installer? I had no need for either of those when I did mine I used basic hand tools and a long cheater bar with a bench vice to crush the crush sleeve. High dollar tools are not always needed.:rolleyes:

Ira
 
mike reeh said:
like i said i havent worked extensively on a 14FF... How is the pinion depth set? Shims? Where are the shims located? behind the outter or inner bearing race?

the last rear end i setup, the depth was set with shims behind the INNER RACE which means the bearing had to be pressed on and off for each check.. you need a quality bearing separator, a press, a dial indicator, etc etc.. depending on what tools you have to begin with, to do it right you need several little things too like brass punches, a torque wrench, something to measure bearing preload.. its gonna add up quick. well worth the price though, since youre setup for the next time you have to install the gears.

The 14FF has a removable pinion carrier. The pinion depth is set by adding shims between this carrier and the rear end housing. Once you have the bearings on and the crush sleeve to the right thickness for bearing preload it does not have to be touched again until you change pinions for some reason. Not dogging you out for paying some one just trying to let you know that 14FF are pretty much cake to setup.

Ira
 
I love the 14ff, why cant all axles be that easy to setup. Easy to change pinion depth, easy to change backlash.
 
sandawgk5 said:
Press and race installer? I had no need for either of those when I did mine I used basic hand tools and a long cheater bar with a bench vice to crush the crush sleeve. High dollar tools are not always needed.:rolleyes:

Ira

So you obviously didn't change the bearings and races. The tools may not be needed, but it is so much easier with them. I build diffs all day long and without all the correct tools it would take forever, espically on a Dana axle.
 
K5MONSTERCHEV said:
So you obviously didn't change the bearings and races. The tools may not be needed, but it is so much easier with them. I build diffs all day long and without all the correct tools it would take forever, espically on a Dana axle.
I did replace bearings. I did a complete rebuild on my 14FF. He is not talking about a Dana axle he is talking aboot a 14FF. There is no need to outfit a complete shop to rebuild a 14 bolt. I will agree with you for a Dana axle specialty tools are needed but not a 14FF. In 15 years of installing bearings and races I have never used a "race installer" I have always used a brass punch to seat the races and never had a problem. Once again just my experiences.

Ira
 
I don't think you need many expensive tools either. I have set up alot of ring and pinions in all different axles 14b FF and 9"s are the easiest I have done. You don't need a race installer just 5 min and a couple of brass punches. The most expensive tool you need is either a beam bender in. lb. (not prefered) or a dial torque wrench. 14b ff super easy. 60 not as easy but not so hard either.
 
the most expensive tool that you HAVE to have to do it correctly is a inch pound dial type torque wrench. This is where ebay comes in handy, I got an almost new snap on dial type inch pounder torque wrench for about 90 dollars. Cant beat that.
 
If you get lost doing it , PM nate , hes the newer gear guy ( I.E cheaper ) . He did my 12 bolt , and its working good so far :thumb:
 

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