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That was loud

Well the next time I have a week or so off I'm changing my breaks bearing axle joints all that good stuff. And u would also like to put lockers in the front
 
DK5 said:
Actually, I was having this problem whether or not it was in 4x4 and it was the wheel joints in the end. Ended up replacing the steering box and a bunch of other things and it wasn't any of them. Finally I took it in to have the wheel joint replaced and that was the problem. The joint wasn't flexible like it should have been and would "grab" from time to time causing this pulling sensation and then it lets go.
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But how would it grab if your axle shaft was not spinning?

Is yours a 203 tcase?
 
I don't think the transfer case was the problem (NP241) it was just the wheeljoint that was seized in such a way that it was causing this.

Here is a quote that I wrote in the thread I linked to of what my trusted mechanic told me:

Well I talked to the mechanic about the problem. And apparently the passenger axle joint was seized so bad that it was stuck in a bent position (as it does when you are turning). So when I straightend the wheel to drive forward and the axle joint didn't straighten, understandably, the truck wanted to turn to the right.

They tried to see if they could straighten it by putting it in the vice, and by pressing one the short end of the axle shaft, they COULDN'T straighten it. Only when they switched around to pry with the longer end could they straighten it, but it was still tough to do.
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buffblazer said:
But how would it grab if your axle shaft was not spinning?
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The axle joints still pivot when you turn left and right. That's where they can hang up and keep that "pulling" sensation. Then when they pop and let go, it'll surprise you. I lived with it for almost a year before doing the 3/4 ton swap. It gets progressively worse and worse over time.

I'm also not ruling out a wheel bearing fault either.
 
DK5 said:
I don't think the transfer case was the problem (NP241) it was just the wheeljoint that was seized in such a way that it was causing this.

Here is a quote that I wrote in the thread I linked to of what my trusted mechanic told me:
Click to expand...

I was asking about the tcase since the 203 model is an all wheel drive style so it would be Turning the shafts but since yours is a 241 that wouldn't cause it
 
496truck said:
The axle joints still pivot when you turn left and right. That's where they can hang up and keep that "pulling" sensation. Then when they pop and let go, it'll surprise you. I lived with it for almost a year before doing the 3/4 ton swap. It gets progressively worse and worse over time.

I'm also not ruling out a wheel bearing fault either.
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Wouldn't it only get hung up with turns or lane shifting? Is it a hang up and pop that's instantaneous or take awhile.

The reason I ask is if going down the highway it should have cleared up right away since your steering will over power the joint and straighten the joint in place.

Now its popping while turn or lane shifts then yeah that is completely possible but i was going off of what the OP said that it did it while driving down the road in a continuous manner.
 
Well, not all roads are straight. I can tell you that mine was most noticable after a turn, like turning onto another street. But would also do it just driving down a street. As the road turns, so do the wheels, knuckles, and also the axle joints. Now after returning straight, everything would go back to zero... except the axle joints. They would want to stay in that turned position and so they would keep pressure on the knuckle to stay turned. A bump in the road or a bit more effort from the steering wheel could release the stuck joint and then there was no more pressure.

You see, there is play in all of the components in the front axle. Between the tie rod ends, the ball joints, axle joints, etc. Not to mention there is no direct connection from the outer stub shaft to the inside of the spindle. Yes it rides on a bearing on the inner side of the spindle but on the outer end it just sits in the locking hub mechanism. When you look at the overall picture there is a great deal of movement in there. The knuckle assembly can be straight forward and the axle shaft assembly can be cockeyed in there at the same time, applying pressure on the inside of the spindle trying to turn the knuckle (in or out whichever way the joint is sticking).

Let me illustrate the scenario in your mind. Imagine the right front joint is binding up. The truck takes a right hand turn and returns straight. Once returned straight the steering wheel no longer is "on center" to go straight down the road. It's now "corrected" to the left. This is because the right joint is holding the right knuckle in a "toe out" position and now the driver has to correct for this, putting the left front in a "toe out" position also. All the play in the tie rod ends and ball joints allows this to happen (even if everything was new). Now the binding joint releases "pop" which puts both wheels pointing "left" and now the driver is finding the truck in another lane because they had pressure on the wheel to keep it straight. It's a dangerous and unexpected feeling.

Please don't take this as being a smart ass answer, that's not me. I just want people to be educated on this phenomena and how/what happens.
 
Great explanation :waytogo: that illustrates clearly how I was having those symptoms on my K5.

And on the highway the pulling would eventually go away. Maybe because of the heat after driving straight for so long it straightens the u-joint? :dunno:

Either way, because I have experienced both scenarios (axle joints and wheel bearings on separate occasions) I agree that it could be either problem going on with the OP. We won't know until there is further investigation...
 
496truck said:
Well, not all roads are straight. I can tell you that mine was most noticable after a turn, like turning onto another street. But would also do it just driving down a street. As the road turns, so do the wheels, knuckles, and also the axle joints. Now after returning straight, everything would go back to zero... except the axle joints. They would want to stay in that turned position and so they would keep pressure on the knuckle to stay turned. A bump in the road or a bit more effort from the steering wheel could release the stuck joint and then there was no more pressure.

You see, there is play in all of the components in the front axle. Between the tie rod ends, the ball joints, axle joints, etc. Not to mention there is no direct connection from the outer stub shaft to the inside of the spindle. Yes it rides on a bearing on the inner side of the spindle but on the outer end it just sits in the locking hub mechanism. When you look at the overall picture there is a great deal of movement in there. The knuckle assembly can be straight forward and the axle shaft assembly can be cockeyed in there at the same time, applying pressure on the inside of the spindle trying to turn the knuckle (in or out whichever way the joint is sticking).

Let me illustrate the scenario in your mind. Imagine the right front joint is binding up. The truck takes a right hand turn and returns straight. Once returned straight the steering wheel no longer is "on center" to go straight down the road. It's now "corrected" to the left. This is because the right joint is holding the right knuckle in a "toe out" position and now the driver has to correct for this, putting the left front in a "toe out" position also. All the play in the tie rod ends and ball joints allows this to happen (even if everything was new). Now the binding joint releases "pop" which puts both wheels pointing "left" and now the driver is finding the truck in another lane because they had pressure on the wheel to keep it straight. It's a dangerous and unexpected feeling.

Please don't take this as being a smart ass answer, that's not me. I just want people to be educated on this phenomena and how/what happens.
Click to expand...

I know how a front end works and I understand what your trying to say. But I'm going off of exactly what the OP stated when he said it would rub then pull then pop then drive normal and repeat.

If the OP had said it was when exiting a turn then yes I would agree it would be what your saying but even slight lane changes and curves in the road wouldn't cause that much of a pull or shudder.
 
I'm not arguing with you and I'm not saying "this is the problem". I was just putting more info into how it all works. It's not about "I'm right. You're wrong." It's about information.

You may know how all that stuff works. Others may not. As I stated, it's not a smart ass post. It's an informative post for anyone who chooses to read it, now or in the future. This whole site is a library of problem solving info for those who choose to search for it.

The OP hasn't gone any further into diagnosing this problem, so right now we are all speculating. For all we know he could have an angry midget living under the hood holding on to the steering shaft with a pipe wrench and hitting the frame with a hammer. It's highly unlikely, but it could be his problem. :D
 
Idk if that's what it is or not but I live in south louisiana and there are no straight or smooth roads lol
 
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