CK5
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The Brandy Build

A build taking a faded, rusty, 1988 k5 and transforming it into a more or less restored, 1974 full convertible.
I finished rebuilding the drum brakes after hunting for the right parking brake lever. The passenger side one was completely missing and the only ones I could find that seemed correct were $30. So I pulled one from a junk yard. I ran the vapor line all the way to the front but I’m having trouble creating and finding the right fittings for the rest of the fuel lines, I think I figured it out but for now I’m just running the delivery line to the filter and stopping there. I’ll likely have to build the rest of the line while the body is on. I’m not doing the return line yet because I’m likely going to rebuild the motor. I can’t get past the idiocy of putting that old dirty motor back in and pulling it out later to rebuild it. I didn’t want the extra time in the project but I can do it at a neighbors shop so I can keep moving on it and the rest of the project at the same time. My next step is tinkering with fuel lines for a bit and working on the floor of the body. I have the pans for the very back ordered and on their way. I’d like to finish the motor and the metal work at roughly the same time so I can put the frame back under it right away and hook everything up so the motor doesn’t sit too long. I’ve never welded sheet metal before so I’m practicing on my Jeep floor pans and scrap metal. Hopefully I’m an expert by the time I’m working on exterior metal. I rolled the frame out of the shop for the first time in months and despite the dust it looks stunning.
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I’m sick of delays, but I’m close to working on welding in new metal. I have the inner and outer rocker panels for both sides and I have the rear bed area floor pans. However the floor pans are so bent I’m not sure I want to use them:7A67E674-CE0F-404F-AA91-D1705FE1184D.jpeg
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Almost every corner was bent, really disappointing. I got them from A2Z and although I don’t think it’s their fault they’re bent, they should have packed them better. I’ll either get another set or get my money back depending on if I want to try to hammer them out or not. Regardless. I’m working on getting our harbor freight welder set up for sheet metal. Trying to get argon hooked up and some thin solid wire. No more flux core. Once it’s dialed in I’ll start on the rocker panels. And we can hopefully keep moving quickly because I’m tired of not making progress on this thing.

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Almost every corner was bent, really disappointing.
I think they all come damaged. It’s a long haul between Taiwan and here. A 2x4 and a crowned body hammer (hammering off dolley) seem to sort it out well enough.

Also, your UPS man hates you. I know this, because he hates me, too.

David
 
Drilling out spot welds in the bed so I can replace these panels.51F2A777-2FB8-4BF0-A2CF-F21628355F7A.jpeg
I’m replacing just over half the bed and I hope to have the metal out tomorrow. There are 3 supports under the floor that give rigidity, it’s basically a U shaped channel and the bed gets spot welded to it on the top parts of the U. The one in the picture is the first one (closest to the back). There’s another one about a foot above it and that’s where I’m going to cut, right in the middle of the channel between the lines of spot welds. I was going to work on the rocker panels but the board that supports the body runs under them so I’ll have to do them when the frame is back under it. I’ll work on the floor for now.
 
Got the floor out, really glad I could take it out by drilling spot welds and removing bolts rather than chopping it to heck.567A8892-8979-49C3-9F06-3F4AA03744AD.jpeg
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Obviously I had to cut it in the middle and there are two welds that needed cut where the tailgate post sits on top of the floor pan but that’s it, it will make it so much easier to put the new one back in. Even with the new pans just sitting roughly in place it looks great.
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And a big bonus is the support in the back is in really solid shape.
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I’ll wire wheel and paint all the metal around the perimeter of the new pans and the support and then start fitting them. My progress is kind of dependent on the weather right now because the body sits outside but I’m going to try to keep moving as quickly as possible.
 
Little bit of rust repair970DFA3A-FA49-47CC-933C-D389E0475CAB.jpeg
There was one spot on this support that had a couple rust holes in so I patched in a piece of metal. Good easy welding practice.
 
I got por15 on everything that will be covered by the floor pans, that was a few days ago. Today I got the pans cut and fit into place. I have to cut the pans down the center still because they’re oversized and currently overlap in the middle. I also need to drill some holes in the pans and some in the wheel wells for new spot welds. I think I need to drill a few holes where the pan bolts to the body too. It looks like it has a few drilled out but not all. If all goes as planned I’ll be welding them in tomorrow.
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I’m a little disappointed in the pans because the ridges don’t match perfectly. It’s close but they’re a little smaller. They all line up fine though which is good and it will be covered in carpet so It’s good enough.
 
it almost looks like they are meant to slide under the stock floorpan and kind of "interlock"
That could be, I’ll have to try that with some scrap pieces and see how they fit under the old pan. But like I said it’s under the carpet so it’s not a big deal although I would have rather it fit exactly.
 
Another big gap in posts, sorry about that. Life gets busy sometimes. I’ve made some progress but have been too busy to take many pictures and post. I finished welding the rear floor pans in a long time ago. I’ve got a couple small things to do but they’re essentially done. I’m working on the rockers (inner and outer) and the front floor area in the corner where the floor steps up for the rear.
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Not that it’s really relevant but I’ve been videoing everything I’ve done since I pulled the auto transmission. Not sure if I’ve mentioned that before. I’ll eventually post the entire restoration (if I ever get it done) in video form. I’ll try to do better with the progress and posting.
 
Awesome progress!!! Sheet metal work is no joke, I don't know if I have the patience for it. Minor stuff like the ridges not lining up in the rear floor pan would drive me nuts. :D Keep up the great work!
 
Awesome progress!!! Sheet metal work is no joke, I don't know if I have the patience for it. Minor stuff like the ridges not lining up in the rear floor pan would drive me nuts. :D Keep up the great work!
Yeah it’s a tough one, hard to stay motivated with but I’ll get it done, thank you.
 
Love the build. I'm in a gap as well. Waiting for a few more bucks and time to do the next phase, steering. When the time comes, hopefully next summer, I will be picking your brain about taking the body off the frame. Keep up the good work!
 
Love the build. I'm in a gap as well. Waiting for a few more bucks and time to do the next phase, steering. When the time comes, hopefully next summer, I will be picking your brain about taking the body off the frame. Keep up the good work!
Much appreciated, I’m happy to answer any questions for you, good luck with your build!
 
So as far as the rockers go I’ve got one side completely done, not sure if I have a picture of it finished or not. Honestly I spent probably twice as much time fixing rust in the floors than I did on the rockers themselves. The inner rockers were a pain too because the ones I got aren’t the full piece so I had to make a lot of pieces myself. I’ll be working on the driver side very soon and because the rust isn’t as bad on that side and I know what I’m in for it should go a lot faster. Here’s the most current picture I have of the rocker. Please don’t zoom in on the welds.
70E8A33B-E1E9-4CC8-80DC-447E72489CC2.jpeg I ground them down and there are no holes so I’m happy enough with them but yeah they’re ugly.
I started the engine rebuild process. I have the block almost completely stripped besides some freeze out caps and some other little stuff. I’ll be taking it to the machine shop tomorrow so they can clean it up. This is probably a good time to ask for suggestions for a good rebuild kit, not sure how much boring the cylinders need yet. I’m not looking for anything super expensive and I’m not trying to build a performance engine. Just something good quality. Trying to keep everything near stock. I’m trying to keep progress going on this as much as possible and I’m feeling motivated to get on it right now so hopefully there will be another update soon.
FC89761E-0EC8-4F88-A728-199D1CDAF1B7.jpeg I appreciate all the support I get on this site, everyone’s always super helpful and honestly this build would be near impossible for me without the help I’ve received. Thanks guys.
 
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Quick side note, I’ll be putting a carb in this time, so if you have any suggestions for a good intake/carb setup that would be great as well.
 
Great progress, I didn't have the stones to do my rockers. I do have an edelbrock dual plane performer intake but it needs to be cleaned up as you can see. I cant use it. Also have an 800 cfm carb but may be too much for a 350. Let me know if you want one or both-free!

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Great progress, I didn't have the stones to do my rockers. I do have an edelbrock dual plane performer intake but it needs to be cleaned up as you can see. I cant use it. Also have an 800 cfm carb but may be too much for a 350. Let me know if you want one or both-free!

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I appreciate the offer, yeah that carb probably is a Little much. And although I’ll probably get an intake like yours I think I’ll probably get a new shiny one lol. Most everything on the engine will be new so I want it to look nice, very generous offer though thank you.
 

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