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The DSPRO budget Blazer build

Ok, so I may buy the first Blazer I found with the bad engine but good body and interior.

Is $1000 too much to pay for a nice stock truck with a bad engine? I feel like it's a good deal, and I've found a pulled 6.2 for $200 that is 'supposed' to run well.

HEre's a pic:

15008470670_d58d8b4f24_c.jpg
 
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rebelgregory said:
Off topic, but curious...What's up with the fenderwell exhaust on that blue truck? Seems like a weird method to have it dump in a stockish location.
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I have run a few systems with the tailpipes done that way, including the current system on my Blazer. It solves a bunch of room problems around the shackle/spring area and gets the pipes up high out of harms way.
 
rbgerrish said:
Is $1000 too much to pay for a nice stock truck with a bad engine? I feel like it's a good deal, and I've found a pulled 6.2 for $200 that is 'supposed' to run well.

15008470670_d58d8b4f24_c.jpg
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Not if it is clean inside and out and rust free.

Martin
 
+1 if it's clean and rust free I'd jump on it before someone else does. I've see a couple like that where I'm at and usually wind up talking myself out of it for whatever reason and then kick myself later for not snatching it up...
 
Well, we are on our way!

Picked up the 1984 Diesel K5 with a bad engine, but pretty clean otherwise. It had a repaint sometime in the 2000's. I gave it a quick bath and am charging the batteries, but it needs new ones. All the electronics work, which is great.

I'm going to try to start this engine to hear the 'bad noise' first had, and I'll shoot video of it so you all can give me your guesses.

I will also be picking up a pulled 6.2 near me that came from a running truck.

Budget: $1060 + $950 for Boggers = $2010
1984 Diesel Base Truck: $1000

Remaining Budget: $1010.

Pics!

Loaded up:
15213263255_73018610cb_c.jpg


Washed:

15212863322_8a244443da_c.jpg


GEtting charged. All the windows work, albeit slowly with the low batteries, even the rear one.

15026674928_932a3c3739_c.jpg


Pretty clean:

15026690897_cfd1c2d5ce_c.jpg


15026573170_f9168e8d2f_c.jpg


15210207791_43deb8a3cf_c.jpg


15026578010_62690c3a2a_c.jpg


Gotta build these now that I have all the parts:

15026692248_d3dc2fc67c_c.jpg
 
What happened to the tall one with 60/14?

Also, I've got the 20g airsoft BBs in my tires too. Running 2,500 each tire, cause I buy the 10k count bucket. Works out to about 1lb each. Lol
 
livid4dirt said:
Looks like your off to a good start :waytogo:. Who knows, might get lucky with the "bad engine" :dunno:
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Here's hoping!

NorCalAnthony said:
Besides the tailgate area that thing looks like it's in really good shape. Nice score!
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Yeah, I've been crawling all over it, and I'm hapy with it's condition. I'll fix the tailgate issues at some point.

K85 Octane said:
What happened to the tall one with 60/14?
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The Orange truck is now a parts truck. Once the Blue N White runs, it'll get the 60/14 from Orange. The Orange will then get the 1/2 ton axles from Blue N White, and I'll sell Orange with the good motor as a roller to raise more project money.
 
Looks like I have to pick up some batteries. The ones in it are 2003, and they charge enough to power the lights, but it wont even think about turning over.

Quick question: I doesnt appear that you need to remove the radiator to pull the engine based on the research I've done. Correct?
 
you have hoses off . . . shroud off . . . . why not 4 extra bolts and maybe 2 tranny lines and bam rad is out and SAFE from harm . :whistle:
 
I like to pull the entire core support. Sooooooo much easier.

Martin
 
I seldom pull the radiator, and never pull the core support or clip for an engine change.
 
i pulled the core support on mine. Not hard, but makes things so much easier.
 
Cool, thanks for the tips folks!

So, I went to Costco and bought 2 new Interstate batteries. (They have changed to Interstate from Kirkland) Group 78's were $83 each with a 42 month free replacement warranty.

I installed them. The electronics all come one, the manual Glow plug button works, but when I turn the key nothing happens. No starter. Not even a click. I tapped it with a hammer. Nothing.

I might poke around a bit more, but I'm picking up another 6.2 tomorrow, so disassembly of the engine in the truck will start soon. I also ordered a J-code manifold to get rid of all the EGR crap.

I'll probably yank all the cruiser control stuff too- I never use it and simplifying the engine appeals to me.

Budget: $1010- $166 for batteries and $76 for J-code intake.
$768 remaining
 
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I wouldn't take anything apart on the engine till you figure out what is wrong with the cranking problem.

Also, why ditch the cruise control on such a nice unmolested rig? It isn't very big, and it is really nice to have when it is working.

Martin
 
Ok, I figured out the cranking issue. This truck has a little security card under the steering column that kills the ignition if removed. It wasnt in right. Now it starts fine...

Except for the END-OF-DAYS noise it makes when started. CROUNCH CROUNCH CROUNCH! Metal on metal badness. Here's a video, but it doesnt pick up the sound perfectly.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/rbgerrish/15241571011/

PO thought main bearing(s). Thoughts?

I could keep the cruise, but part of me wants to eliminate anything I wouldnt use that could fail... I'll think about it.
 
Before I pull the engine, I'll drop the oil pan and see if I can find anything obviously borked.
 
rbgerrish said:
I could keep the cruise, but part of me wants to eliminate anything I wouldnt use that could fail... I'll think about it.
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That just seems such a shame on a clean unmolested rig. It would be different on a hacked up one.

Martin
 
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