The DSPRO budget Blazer build

[rebelgregory]

Sounds pretty gnarly. There are a couple possible lucky fixes - cracked flywheel, loose torque converter bolts, maybe something else, but that usually just creates a knock sound while the engine still runs well. Yours sounds pretty beat. Probably won't be that lucky. Side note, what fluid shot out of it when you started it?

 

[rbgerrish]

Sounds pretty gnarly. There are a couple possible lucky fixes - cracked flywheel, loose torque converter bolts, maybe something else, but that usually just creates a knock sound while the engine still runs well. Yours sounds pretty beat. Probably won't be that lucky. Side note, what fluid shot out of it when you started it?

Some of that was dirt sprinkling onto the light aiming upwards, but also the rear main seal is leaking. Perhaps more engine oil pushed through.

I'll examine the torque converter and all that area, maybe get lucky. The oil pan is coming off tonight!

 

[muddysub]

I like to pull the entire core support. Sooooooo much easier.

Martin

same here. out the front.

 

[tRustyK5]

Hard to tell when it only ran for 5 seconds...

 

[rbgerrish]

Hard to tell when it only ran for 5 seconds...

Yeah, it was sounding like each second was doing catastrophic damage, so I put it out of its misery!

'Running' 6.2 picked up last night for $200, and it included an extra brake master/booster and Napa spin on fuel filter setup.

Got home too late to pull the oil pan.

$568 remaining.

 

[rbgerrish]

While I wait for the manifold to show, how would you folks suggest I freshen up this 6.2 while it's out of the truck? I'm obviously going to put a new J-code manifold gasket on it and clean it.

Thoughts?

 

[tRustyK5]

I'd want to hear the 'new' 6.2 before putting another cent into it. If it sounded decent I'd seriously consider new MLS head gaskets and ARP head studs. I really don't like the factory TTY head bolts. I have an '83 6.2 powered pick-up...and it needed head gaskets. During dis-assembly I found a few of the TTY head bolts were not tight at all.

 

[rbgerrish]

Well! I spent a couple hours under the Blazer this evening. Drained the engine, removed the oil pan...and found this:

Notice anything...bad? Yeah, it's hosed. Broken crank lobe.

On the plus side, I dont think 700R4 torque converters come purple from the factory, do they?

Once the 'new' engine is in the shop I'll test it before putting it in the truck.

 

[rbgerrish]

I spent a good portion of the day playing with the Blazer. Got the shroud, hood, batteries, lots of wiring, a/c, PS and various other things detached. Unbolted and supported the tranny. (Got to the 2 upper bolts from the top, crouching like Gollum on top of the motor!) Unbolted the motor via the 3 smaller screws under each mount. Everything is drained.

My shop so now a superfund site, but at least the engine is about ready to come out. Just have to check for the last few attached bits I missed...

J-code Mani came in the mail today!

 

[sweetk30]

unless I am missing something you screwed up on engine mounts .

1 big 3/8" or 7/16" bolt/nut per mount and your done . no need to undo 3 bolts per side.

 

[rbgerrish]

unless I am missing something you screwed up on engine mounts .

1 big 3/8" or 7/16" bolt/nut per mount and your done . no need to undo 3 bolts per side.

I undid the 3 little ones because the seemed easier to get to, I didnt know if the long bolt would come out easily with the weight of the engine. Will the 3 little ones not work?

Thanks!

 

[sweetk30]

lot more work is all.

and the stock mounts bolted to the engine have tabs that sit on ear's in the CRAPPY rubber mounts and should let the big bolt slide right out if still attached / butted up to tranny . if not little wiggle is all that's needed.

fyi if doing engine swap now check the stock mounts and see if there shot . if you want best get aftermarket like ord / diy4x or even energy suspension sells . do t-case/tranny mount also .

here is pics of stock WORN OUT rubber to energy suspension . http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3453306&postcount=6

 

[MajMike]

Windows . . .

GEtting charged. All the windows work, albeit slowly with the low batteries, even the rear one.

Mine has two new batteries too and all pieces of glass are still slow going up or down, could be a motor issue I guess but I can put up with it for now as other items need more immediate attention.

 

[rbgerrish]

lot more work is all.

and the stock mounts bolted to the engine have tabs that sit on ear's in the CRAPPY rubber mounts and should let the big bolt slide right out if still attached / butted up to tranny . if not little wiggle is all that's needed.

fyi if doing engine swap now check the stock mounts and see if there shot . if you want best get aftermarket like ord / diy4x or even energy suspension sells . do t-case/tranny mount also .

here is pics of stock WORN OUT rubber to energy suspension . http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3453306&postcount=6

Ahh I see! Yeah, I'll probably replace them.

Thanks!

 

[sweetk30]

fyi replacement stock rubber are the same or worse out the the box as whipped oem rubber.

 

[Ten_Bucks]

I love seeing budget builds like this. Keep up the good work!

Scott

 

[y5mgisi]

Suscribed

 

[rbgerrish]

Another couple hours last night resulted in this:

Next step is to take a look at the new engine and swap some parts.

 

[82355]

Usually the motor mount bolts come out pretty easy, but sometimes they don't want to slide out. That is usually fixed by just spinning them out with the impact.

Martin

 

[rbgerrish]

I unloaded the 'new' engine into the shop.

Sorry for the blurry!