Sounds good!
Electric lift pumps are your friend while doing this!
Otherwise, just follow the procedure outlined in the manual.
Have you owned/driven a 6.2 before? (if you answered this previously I forgot...) They're neat engines, IMO.
CK5
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The DSPRO budget Blazer build
- Thread starter rbgerrish
- Start date
Sounds good!
Electric lift pumps are your friend while doing this!
Otherwise, just follow the procedure outlined in the manual.
Have you owned/driven a 6.2 before? (if you answered this previously I forgot...) They're neat engines, IMO.
Sounds good!
Electric lift pumps are your friend while doing this!
Otherwise, just follow the procedure outlined in the manual.
Have you owned/driven a 6.2 before? (if you answered this previously I forgot...) They're neat engines, IMO.
If I were to put in an electric fuel pump, is there one that people prefer?
I've never driven one actually, but I have a couple friends that have had them. I'm used to Unimogs, so I'm sure it'll be a rocket ship!
I have used two different models on my trucks. I first bought this cheapie pump ($60 at Autozone) for my '83. While installing it the brass nipple detached from the plastic housing. I took it back and was given a new one, which I installed underneath the bed (next to the tank selection valve). The plastic holes lined up perfectly with holes on the rear cab cross-member.
Later, when getting the Suburban running, I bought the same cheapie pump and ran into the same nipple failure. I returned that one and told the store that I didn't want the cheapie pump anymore. After looking through the catalog we found that the V/R series square-body trucks (1988-1992) were equipped with electric lift pumps. I don't know if these are the same pump as the GMT400-series trucks, but I walked out of the store with a pump that resembled this one, and I've been happy with it ever since. It was only $12 more. It's much quieter and appears to be sturdier than the one I first used (although the K10's pump is still running as well). On both vehicles I placed the electric pump in series with the mechanical pump (one upstream and one downstream). When the pump is desired, I flip a switch on the bottom of the dash to activate the pump. As the K10 has started leaking air into the lines while sitting, I now run the electric regularly (until I finally get around to replacing the line).
Sweet! There are lots of folks who think the 6.2 trucks are slow (I'm not one of them), but if you're used to a vehicle that actually is slow, the 6.2 should be just great! And you'll never regret the mileage...
On the maintenance side there are a few quirks. No doubt you'll figure out most of them by the time you get the engine running.
1) Starter motors should always be braced.
2) Bleeding air out of fuel lines is not always fun.
3) Fuel pumps that lose their prime aren't so fun either.
I think everything else of consequence has already shown up in this thread.
I have used two different models on my trucks. I first bought this cheapie pump ($60 at Autozone) for my '83. While installing it the brass nipple detached from the plastic housing. I took it back and was given a new one, which I installed underneath the bed (next to the tank selection valve). The plastic holes lined up perfectly with holes on the rear cab cross-member.
Later, when getting the Suburban running, I bought the same cheapie pump and ran into the same nipple failure. I returned that one and told the store that I didn't want the cheapie pump anymore. After looking through the catalog we found that the V/R series square-body trucks (1988-1992) were equipped with electric lift pumps. I don't know if these are the same pump as the GMT400-series trucks, but I walked out of the store with a pump that resembled this one, and I've been happy with it ever since. It was only $12 more. It's much quieter and appears to be sturdier than the one I first used (although the K10's pump is still running as well). On both vehicles I placed the electric pump in series with the mechanical pump (one upstream and one downstream). When the pump is desired, I flip a switch on the bottom of the dash to activate the pump. As the K10 has started leaking air into the lines while sitting, I now run the electric regularly (until I finally get around to replacing the line).
Sweet! There are lots of folks who think the 6.2 trucks are slow (I'm not one of them), but if you're used to a vehicle that actually is slow, the 6.2 should be just great! And you'll never regret the mileage...
On the maintenance side there are a few quirks. No doubt you'll figure out most of them by the time you get the engine running.
1) Starter motors should always be braced.
2) Bleeding air out of fuel lines is not always fun.
3) Fuel pumps that lose their prime aren't so fun either.
I think everything else of consequence has already shown up in this thread.
That's great info, thanks! I just ordered the Airtex Fuel pump off amazon for $40, free 2 day shipping (thanks prime!), so I'll have it thursday for install Friday. I agree that it'll make bleeding WAY easier.
So to be clear, you mounted yours by the tank, on the chassis somewhere, and it pushes fuel toward the mechanical pump? Awesome.
Easiest way I have found to do this is to blow air into the return line at the IP (10 psi max). This will pressurize the fuel tank. Crack the bleeder screw and it bleeds itself.
The principle sound good, but as a life-long rust-belter (who has removed 6 or 7 rusted-though tanks), the thought of pressurizing my flimsy rusty metal gives me shivers!
I think I'd just be asking for trouble.Would be a good way to find the weak spots...
I will say this, though. Having installed the pump once I now have only to flip a switch to get priming whenever I want it. Quite handy, IMO, and helped me diagnose leaking fuel lines without having to run the engine unnecessarily.
On the K10 I mounted the pump by the tank, on the chassis (just downstream of the tank selector valve), and it pushes fuel toward the mechanical pump.
The Suburban has an '82 engine installed, with mounts for a secondary fuel filter at the back of the intake manifold (I'm sure you know what I'm talking about, given your own choice of engine). On this truck I mounted the OEM-canister-style pump in place of the secondary filter. Plumbing-wise, it sits downstream of the mechanical pump and upstream of the firewall filter. So the plumbing is not like what the secondary filter had, but it occupies the same space. I did this purely for convenience (filling the empty hole was more attractive than mounting the pump underneath like I had done on the K10).
Both trucks still primarily use their mechanical lift pumps.
BTW, I didn't get a reply to my PM. Did you get it?
One of many reasons I moved away! I hate that sinking feeling when you step on the brake pedal on icy roads going downhill only to realize a brake line just gave out due to rust.The principle sound good, but as a life-long rust-belter (who has removed 6 or 7 rusted-though tanks), the thought of pressurizing my flimsy rusty metal gives me shivers!
Would be a good way to find the weak spots...
I will say this, though. Having installed the pump once I now have only to flip a switch to get priming whenever I want it. Quite handy, IMO, and helped me diagnose leaking fuel lines without having to run the engine unnecessarily.
I installed the electric fuel pump, and it works great, although I thought they were supposed to stop when they reached a certain pressure? Mine just keeps going. I'm getting fuel all the way to the IP, but it's not starting. I'm going to crack the injectors today and see if they are getting fuel. I used a test light on the glow plug wires, and the are hot, so next I will check the resistance at each plug.
My truck has a glow plug button, installed by PO. I hear nothing when I push it, but the glow plug light comes on in the truck, and the glow wire are getting voltage.
I'm also going to check the pink-wire relay on top of the ip for the clicking.
My truck has a glow plug button, installed by PO. I hear nothing when I push it, but the glow plug light comes on in the truck, and the glow wire are getting voltage.
I'm also going to check the pink-wire relay on top of the ip for the clicking.
Ok, I checked some things. (Edited- I answered some of my own question!)
1) It appears all the Glow Plugs are bad. They register nothing on the resistance meter, while the good ones I pulled from the old engine all register 1.6 +/-.
2) I took a voltage reading at the glow plug wire end, and it's 12v. Are 1984 diesel blazers 12v glow plugs? Could this old engine have 6v plugs, and they all failed when receiving 12v? (EDIT: Yup, AC Delco 9g's are 6v. All are bad)
3) The IP shut off solenoid clicks when I remove the pink wire.
Before I put the old glow plugs in, I want to be sure they are 12v.
Thanks!
EDIT: I bought some Bosch Duraterm's at Napa using their 20% off bucket sale! Got all 8 for $77.
1) It appears all the Glow Plugs are bad. They register nothing on the resistance meter, while the good ones I pulled from the old engine all register 1.6 +/-.
2) I took a voltage reading at the glow plug wire end, and it's 12v. Are 1984 diesel blazers 12v glow plugs? Could this old engine have 6v plugs, and they all failed when receiving 12v? (EDIT: Yup, AC Delco 9g's are 6v. All are bad)
3) The IP shut off solenoid clicks when I remove the pink wire.
Before I put the old glow plugs in, I want to be sure they are 12v.
Thanks!
EDIT: I bought some Bosch Duraterm's at Napa using their 20% off bucket sale! Got all 8 for $77.
Last edited:
Well, I got all the glow plugs out, but two of them left thier tips inside the engine. The unscrewed easily and fell right out, so they must have been in bad shape.
To get the broken tips out, I've read that you unscrew the injector and fish it out with pliers or a magnet. Any other ways?
One of the injectors is being a pain, and started to unscrew the whole injector before the nipple, while the other one is, of course, at the back of the engine and hard to get a wrench on.
I'm hoping, once new glow plugs are in, that it'll start. They were wet when I pulled them out, so I believe fuel is flowing as it should.
ryan
To get the broken tips out, I've read that you unscrew the injector and fish it out with pliers or a magnet. Any other ways?
One of the injectors is being a pain, and started to unscrew the whole injector before the nipple, while the other one is, of course, at the back of the engine and hard to get a wrench on.
I'm hoping, once new glow plugs are in, that it'll start. They were wet when I pulled them out, so I believe fuel is flowing as it should.
ryan
My understanding is that the IP recirculates the fuel while in the off position (and some even when it is running). So the pump will run and run...
For the button, you want to trace those wires before you fire the new plugs up. As an example of just one way this can be screwed up, the PO of my Suburban bypassed the stock relay and used a 5 Amp button switch in line with the entire glow plug circuit (wired up with what looked like 2-gauge wire to the tiny lugs). The switch internals quickly melted, and when I bought the truck he was using pliers to jump the leads together.
It's worth verifying that you have a quiet relay (or a starter-grade switch) for the plug circuit, rather than the common quiet alternative. Even something that "worked" with the old plugs may fry quickly when you put good plugs in!
I will add that the OEM relay for this function is quite loud on all 3 of my trucks (can be heard from several parking spaces over...)
1) Duraterms (or AC60G plugs) should have a resistance around 0.6 Ohms. (Turns out to be about 200 watts apiece if full voltage were to reach them while running)
12V / 0.6OHMS = 20 Amps per plug.
20A * 8 plugs = 160 Amps total when running at full load. More if the Alternator is raising the voltage.
2) Yes, AC 9G plugs are 6V plugs. This was standard-issue equipment when these trucks came out. And, yes, they blow out after just a few seconds if you aren't careful with them. Never made sense to me, either.
Wet plugs is a good sign.
As for the broken tips, this is a common 6.2 issue. Myself (and others on here) have chosen to simply ignore the broken tips with varying degrees of success. I have not reported any issues with ignoring my plugs (and I think it was 6 of them that broke off on my truck). A little ceramic dust is not going to hurt your already-sooty engine. However, depending on how much of the metal wire broke off with the ceramic, you may have some metallic debris hanging around your upper cylinder. Dieselforme reported some nasty clatter after his engine swallowed most of a plug, IIRC. The issue resolved itself after a few miles, but the clanking clearly wasn't good for the engine.
I can get you some pictures of my chewed-up plugs for comparison, if you'd like.
Glow plug possibilities
I know you've already got some of the Bosch glow plugs, but in the future, you might want to consider these: http://www.ssdieselsupply.com/p8_6.5_instant_heat_glow_plugs.html I have three trucks in which I run these; two of my trucks have Banks Sidewinder kits on them and changing glow plugs is an unholy pain -- these are as near a one time install as a glow plug can be. Self-limiting and they heat up in about half the time that the 60G and Bosch plugs I tried.
I know you've already got some of the Bosch glow plugs, but in the future, you might want to consider these: http://www.ssdieselsupply.com/p8_6.5_instant_heat_glow_plugs.html I have three trucks in which I run these; two of my trucks have Banks Sidewinder kits on them and changing glow plugs is an unholy pain -- these are as near a one time install as a glow plug can be. Self-limiting and they heat up in about half the time that the 60G and Bosch plugs I tried.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Are those $69 each?!
We have liftoff! After peaking the batteries, installing the Bosch's, and turning on the fuel pump, she burbled to life! Very exciting. So much soot, all over everything, although it's better now.
I need to tighten one of the headers to the pipe, it has an exhaust gap that makes it loud and exhaust comes out of the engine bay. Other than that, and needing to put tranny fluid in it and button up a few wires, it's just about ready to limp out of the shop.
One question: All those little injector vent/fuel return lines that connect together- they eventually end and that return lines goes somewhere. Where?
Thankz,
ryan
I need to tighten one of the headers to the pipe, it has an exhaust gap that makes it loud and exhaust comes out of the engine bay. Other than that, and needing to put tranny fluid in it and button up a few wires, it's just about ready to limp out of the shop.
One question: All those little injector vent/fuel return lines that connect together- they eventually end and that return lines goes somewhere. Where?
Thankz,
ryan
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