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The Equinox "baby black"

Blue85

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My daughter saved her money and bought her first car - a 2010 Equinox. At first she wanted an Escape, but everything we found around here was priced much higher and completely rotted behind the back tires. We looked at Traverse/Enclave but decided the smaller body made more sense. AWD is much preferred since we get so much snow here (well, except for this year...) and it's hilly. So we were set for Equinox or Terrain, but I was out-voted on the idea of taking a road trip for something more pristine, so we grabbed the next decent one that came up locally. The name "baby black" is her idea that it's a miniature version of our black Yukon XL.

It's 3.0L high-feature V6 (4-cam VVT and DI), 6-speed auto (6T45?), AWD. Has a set of new Blizzaks on it. We drove it home running poorly with all the trouble codes that point to timing chains. I figured since they all need timing chains, why not take the discount on one that is already running bad? Ordered the Melling timing chains since there are too many recent stories of snapped Cloyes chains, plus a new damper/crank pulley, gaskets, etc. All 4 cam phasers were tight, so I left them alone. Did the change with the engine in the car which sucks on a FWD, but I thought it would be better than breaking all the fasteners pulling exhaust and getting the suspension and cradle out of the bottom. Out of paranoia having all 3 chains properly timed, I ran the engine forward several revolutions by hand, then backed it up to verify all of the holes, marks and key links lined up again. This engine is dirty. The losers were either running conventional or just waiting too long between changes. The parts I had off got cleaned but the heads/cams are still kind of black. My plan was to change the oil every 1000 miles for a while and use a little sea foam, but.....

Also discovered that the thermostat is "non-replaceable", so GM sells you the entire water outlet assembly. Aftermarket sells thermostat only, but nobody sells the gasket. Here's my take on it. The failure point of the thermostat is the gasket and that leak is what was keeping the car from getting to temp. The spring is so strong that's it's very hard to swap it out and that pressure is why it doesn't need a gasket. So that's how I ran it and the under-temp DTC was gone.

The car was running fine, although with disappointing MPG. There was a strange thing where the HPFP got noisy for about a week and then it quieted down again. :confused:

Fast-forward a couple of months and the car is dead. She says it started to get loud, there was some warning about oil :doah:, it kept slowing down and then just stopped. The oil level was normal. Fortunately it was just a few miles from the house, so I pulled it home on a strap. The starter can't turn the engine and I can't turn it with a breaker bar. There's metal in the oil. I've started pulling the engine out to see what happened in there. All I know so far is the left-side chain is still tight, one of the cam phasers on that side is now loose and the cam lobe that drives the HPFP looks fine.
 
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Bummer man, hopefully nothing catastrophic but doesn't sound good...

Find a donor vehicle for engine swap?
 
I've been looking for another car with a blown transmission, something like that so I could recover some cost by parting out. Most of them for sale cheap have blown engines :doah:. There isn't much around here and salvage yards seem to get $1500 for high-mile engines because everyone is looking for an LF1. Most of what I find is like 5 hours away, so I'm considering ordering an engine from eBay. Freight is only about $200. Sight unseen is scary, though.

I've also learned that car-part.com is worthless because they never remove listings.

I've found more LFW for sale, which is the same engine, but flex fuel. I'm afraid of this because the injectors will be larger and swapping injectors around on these DI engines isn't trivial. I've also toyed with the idea of going 3.6 since there's more around. The torque curve is so much better, which is probably why they only offered the 3.0L from 2010-2012. Maybe it's just a segment swap in HPTuners. Maybe it's months of headaches.

LF1: 264 hp@ 6950 rpm, 222 lb⋅ft@ 5100 rpm
LLT: 288 hp@ 6300 rpm, 270 lb⋅ft@ 3400 rpm
 
Good idea, but some of their used engines cost as much as this car did and we're talking about 600 miles.
 
Here's my filter towel and a shot of the sludge.

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I found it interesting that these engines have no exhaust manifolds. Cats bolt right to the heads.

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Dang it, I just realized I can't unbolt the torque converter if I can't rotate the engine. I guess if I can remove both valve covers, the timing cover and the oil pan, I should be able to see what's going on.
 
Timing chains and guides look fine, but look at the metal in the phaser control solenoids.

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Next up is assembling a top-side engine support or hanging it from the cherry picker so I can pull the oil pan off. Just want to get it to rotate so I don't have to drag the torque converter out with the engine.
 
I was just bitchin about how cars/trucks are engineered to be built, not worked on. Good luck Luke!
 
Next up is assembling a top-side engine support or hanging it from the cherry picker so I can pull the oil pan off. Just want to get it to rotate so I don't have to drag the torque converter out with the engine.

You still haven't found exactly what's locked up right? Or have you determined it's the crank itself (or a piston) now that you can see the timing chains....?
 
Yeah, nothing visibly wrong at this point, except the metal flakes. Actually, I think the next step will be to pull the oil pump off the front of the crank, as that's a potential source for the metal. Once the pan is off I'm hoping things will be more obvious. For example, rod bearings usually have a little wiggle, so one of those seized should be easy to spot. Worst-case should be having to remove a bunch of main bearings from below. Of course, I may also find something more obvious like a broken part jammed somewhere.
 
Is there any play at all in the crank, or it won't even budge?
 
R.8a9de88003aeb67a16ff342adef5b712
 
I've never seen this before. 2 or 3 rod caps have material squirting out from the bearings.

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