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The Equinox "baby black"

Does this mean it's been remanufactured?
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One is marked "BYC" and the other "BWW", but I can't find any references to these stickers.

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I think this is the list of everything that's different between the FWD and RWD.

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So weird that it has 8 bolts in the crank shaft while every GM v8 has 6...
 
The RWD flexplate has 6 TC bolts and the FWD one has 4.
 
We're just not so familiar with the high feature V6, but there are tons of them out there.
 
The inevitable decision is whether to leave this seemingly good engine alone (with 6month warranty - whatever that means) or swap the almost new Melling timing set in. The chains in it are the same link design as the stretched ones I previously pulled out, so could be original, could be GM replacement? The Melling is a different style.

Also, there is a clear difference between the markings cast into the cam/phaser bearing retainers between the 2010 FWD engine and the 2011 RWD one. My web research hasn't come up with any information.
 
does the warranty apply if a "shop" doesn't install this engine ? Since it's out and you are capable, have the updated parts, I'd put them in.
 
I don't know. If you're a shop, do you buy an engine off eBay? It does have a heat tab. I was hoping that's their main criteria.
 
Original chain (left) vs one I bought a few months ago (right). They work with the same sprockets.20240323_185237.jpg
 
Interesting... Audi/VW used the style on the right in the 09-12 2.0L which was prone to stretching and they updated to the double style you have on the left in the 13+ ones which they say fairs better and is a common upgrade/update to the earlier ones. Either way they still need to be changed around 125k as preventative maintenance despite them claiming it's a good for the life of the engine...
 
Is there a way to measure timing chain stretch on those engines?
 
You can run the engine and back probe the crank and cam sensors with an oscilloscope. I don't know of another way and I've been searching. I guess one way is to measure the extension of the tensioners. Kind of hard without oil pressure in play.
 
Blue85 said:
You can run the engine and back probe the crank and cam sensors with an oscilloscope. I don't know of another way and I've been searching. I guess one way is to measure the extension of the tensioners. Kind of hard without oil pressure in play.
Click to expand...
Of course reading cam/crank correlation is the easy way with a running engine, but measuring tensioner stick out is how Audi would do it manually. Or if you go so far as to remove the chain you can compare to the new one.
Post a picture of the existing tensioner.
 
The 8-link design is the original from the old engine (new engine chain looks the same). The 9-link is the Melling. I can't find any information on what changes were really made when GM updated the chains around '15, but rumor has it you can upgrade to that system by changing all of the sprockets and phasers. I don't know if there were metallurgy changes, but I know they recalibrated the oil life monitor.

I haven't pulled the timing cover yet. In hindsight, I should have measured the tensioner stickout on the blown engine since it had the new chains on it. I don't think a few miles without oil pressure would really change much there. The tensioners have a ratchet feature that only lets them go back a short distance when there's no oil pressure.
 
Response from seller for the engraving:
That is our internal stock number we use to mark it is our part in case of a return
Click to expand...
 
I pulled the giant timing cover off and the chains and guides look pretty good. There are GM and Cloyes part numbers on the guides that are different from what I pulled out of the 2010 engine (this one is from a 2011 car, but I have no idea of the history).

Nobody has the answer online of how many engine revolutions between when the timing marks line up again. I feel like I could count teeth and links and do the math, but if it's not hard, why hasn't it been done? It would just be a soothing thing to confirm it's in proper timing. Keep in mind this is a system of 3 chains with differing tooth counts between the primary and secondary sprockets and the install procedure works in "stage 1" and "stage 2" to install the 2 chains, so the marks never all align at the same time.

20240325_203157.jpg
 
I mean I feel like you're already into it and you have the parts so you might as well when it's easy to do outside the car.
 
Chevy305 said:
I mean I feel like you're already into it and you have the parts so you might as well when it's easy to do outside the car.
Click to expand...
You sound just like the voice in my head. 2 things: how do I know the almost new aftermarket timing set is better than these OEM ones and how do I know I cleaned all the glitter out of the tensioners?
 
Decided to pull the chains and have a look at things. Compared to the new chains, these have about 1/2 as much stretch as what I pulled out previously.
20240329_155527.jpg

Here's the cam holder tools, in stage 2 timing.

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Here's my mental health picture showing everything lined up in stage 2.20240329_181309.jpg

Right bank goes on triangles, Left bank goes on circles.

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