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The farm truck.

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Went out and worked on this for a bit after the fam all went to bed last night. Pulled the fan and shroud and radiator to get access so I can remove the proportioning valve. Previous owner installed a big fat replacement radiator but didn't put any upper or lower rubber mounts in it. I'll get some and see if there is a reason he left them out.
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And a fat block pic just cuz. She needs a bath.
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Got the combo/prop valve out last night and brought it to work. The shuttle inside had shifted to block the rear circuit. But the rear had still run out of fluid. Not wanting to mess with it doing that again I built a stop to go in place of the switch. Now the front and rear circuits are still isolated but the shuttle can't shift if I blow a line which is fine with me. I just drilled down to the shuttle where the little switch nub sticks down then made a bolt that fits the hole to not allow it to move.
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Truckman4life said:
Got the combo/prop valve out last night and brought it to work. The shuttle inside had shifted to block the rear circuit. But the rear had still run out of fluid. Not wanting to mess with it doing that again I built a stop to go in place of the switch. Now the front and rear circuits are still isolated but the shuttle can't shift if I blow a line which is fine with me. I just drilled down to the shuttle where the little switch nub sticks down then made a bolt that fits the hole to not allow it to move.
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Nice thing to remember. I`ve had trouble with those before too.
The last time I couldn`t get her to bleed I smacked the rubber button with a hammer and it started to work again.
 
max 02 said:
Nice thing to remember. I`ve had trouble with those before too.
The last time I couldn`t get her to bleed I smacked the rubber button with a hammer and it started to work again.
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Yeah from what I understand the rubber button pops out if the front circuit blows a line and if the rear blows a line then the shuttle shifts but the only way to reset it is either take it apart or they say you can open front bleeders and stab the brake pedal hard and the pressure in the rear circuit is supposed to shift it back but I've never heard of good results doing it that way. That's why I went this route.
 
Truckman4life said:
Yeah from what I understand the rubber button pops out if the front circuit blows a line and if the rear blows a line then the shuttle shifts but the only way to reset it is either take it apart or they say you can open front bleeders and stab the brake pedal hard and the pressure in the rear circuit is supposed to shift it back but I've never heard of good results doing it that way. That's why I went this route.
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Mine popped on my '83 recently. I didn't even crack a line, I just kicked the brake pedal real hard and it came back. lol
 
Not sure which build to put this in since I will use parts for both of my squares but I picked this gem up the other night for $175. I think it might donate the 8 lug 10 bolt and all necessary parts to do a 4x4 conversion on this truck. I also need a park brake pedal assembly as mine won't stay down at all. The front clip will make it into this one also I think since I like the GMC headlight setup and grille. I don't have a title. Probably sell the bed once I check it out but it's really clean and mostly rust free. There's also a rust free unbent 73-79 hood in the bed. I will also steal the windshield if it's good. Might try to do a homebuilt frame fix on my K5 using the steering box section of this frame unless it's different. I almost want to put it back together, the front part of the frame is still the original black from the factory but it's missing enough stuff I would need another parts truck plus the no title thing. Oh and I think it's a 1985 K20. 10 bolt front 14 bolt semi floater rear. No engine, Trans, tcase. Was a manual. KIMG1279.JPG KIMG1280.JPG KIMG1281.JPG KIMG1282.JPG KIMG1283.JPG KIMG1284.JPG KIMG1285.JPG KIMG1286.JPG

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Just been using this old girl for hauling hay off the field and it's my go-to for hauling stuff to the lake for swimming. Eight kids kayaks and all our stuff fits perfect on the flatbed. Usually we go to the lake that's like 4-5 miles from my house. Yesterday we went to one about an hour away. Engine stumbled and died as we pulled in and wouldn't re-fire. Swam and hung out and then went to work checking it out. It had spark and there was some fuel in the clear filter down by the pump. Pulled the line at the carb and that filter was still clean. Had the wife crank it and pumped a little into a plastic bottle then dumped it in the carb and got it going. Let it run for a while and loaded up. Hit a gas station for ice cream a few miles down the road and headed home. Made it like 2 blocks and it stumbled and died. Killed the battery this time trying to get it running. Called my brother-in-law to bring jumpers and a trailer. In the meantime I pulled my inline filter and short hose from the frame to pump and blew back through the line to the tank. Sending unit sock must be plugged or a problem with the sender in tank. I left the inline filter out and hooked the hose straight to the pump. My brother-in-law showed up and we hooked up jumper cables and gave her like half a can of starting fluid to get gas back in the carb and headed out. Ran fine with a few hiccups on the way home. Guess I need to drop the tank and pull the sender out. Also it really needs a second battery added to it. One battery does not last very long at all cranking.
 
Nothing big. Just use it to feed cows big bales of hay all winter. Flatbed works perfect for setting 3x3 and 3x4 bales on the back to feed in the pasture. Did my yearly oil change and aired all the tires back to 60 psi. Put a double tall air filter in it I found through Carquest. Had to make a taller stud.
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Has to haul some cattle panels so I made a hitch attachment at work. Worked perfect. Painted it orange cuz I like orange and it sticks out like 18". It can haul pipe too on the top.
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Did you do anything with the K20? How much of the hydraulic clutch setup was still there?

I think the '81-'82 single headlight setup is the best looking single headlight setup from '81-'91.

Martin
 
82355 said:
Did you do anything with the K20? How much of the hydraulic clutch setup was still there?

I think the '81-'82 single headlight setup is the best looking single headlight setup from '81-'91.

Martin
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It's hanging out. I need to steal some parts off of it for this truck. Still want to convert this to a 4x4 but I might use the whole chassis from the K20(frame is in excellent condition) to put my '72 cab on if it's not too much work or I could strip the axles and suspension off the K20 to make the C30 a single rear wheel 4x4 but they are only a 10 bolt front and semi-floater 14 bolt rear. I'm in no hurry with all my other projects going on.
 
max 02 said:
That’s a cool old Kubota!
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It's my brother in laws. He knows a lot about tractors and farm equipment and works on stuff on the side. It's got a quick attach plate on it like a skid steer to switch between the forks and bucket and a hay grapple. He picked up a backhoe for it too that goes on the three point. It's got like 3,900 hrs on it. Great all around machine.
 
Finally mounted the spare. It wasn't wanting to stay ratchet strapped to the spot I had it on the bed anymore. This will work.
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Upgrade in functionality. Had the welder a few years. Got it free from work. Got it running the other day. Needs a little more work but it welds and generates power. The air compressor skid was by my garage for use in the garage. Decided it would be better on here too. Need to bolt everything down and run battery cable from the truck bat to both batteries for these. I have a bigger compressor that needs a carb that I might put on here later.
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