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The Great Smaug

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Here are a few entries from the Walker catalog. It makes that "Int. Pipe" look so straight-forward, like I could delete the downpipe and clamp that one right onto my flange. :rolleyes:


6.5.png

6.5-1992.PNG

All I really need is a simple straight section that I can cut off short. Like this one:


5.9.png



6.7.png
 
And in other news I spent a little time in the shop today. Got organized again after the 3-month hiatus, and wrote out a new shopping list.

Did a bunch of little things like water pump, clutch reservoir, removing the extra Racor filter setup, cleaning up, and started looking at the exhaust. Tailpipe looks like it'll have no problems clearing the rear axle. I'll even reuse the existing rearmost mount. :woot: But the 2.5" crossover pipe is not cooperating. I screwed up, assuming that 6.5 and 6.2 manifolds were identical. They are not, as my truck has 2" outlets (and I checked my extra 6.5 manifold to verify, it is 2.5"). So now I'm getting creative in the exhaust department.

Anybody have a driver-side 6.5 manifold lying around? I'm not sure how much difference it'd make, as the ATS manifold will still be the worst restriction. The pipe isn't really the problem, the smaller flange is what requires creativity. :thinking:

:popcorn:
 
Looks like the aftermarket now has 6.5 manifolds available. Clicky.

The 6.5 manifold would interfere with the hydraulic slave cylinder attached to the SM465 bell housing. But the NV3500 has no such issue. :thinking:
 
If you have the flanged pipe off the 2" manifold,maybe you can chop it off at the flange leaving a stub,and use a muffler adapter to fit it into the pipe with the larger flange ?.
 
diesel4me said:
If you have the flanged pipe off the 2" manifold,maybe you can chop it off at the flange leaving a stub,and use a muffler adapter to fit it into the pipe with the larger flange ?.
Click to expand...

Yeah. I've been playing with those pieces and looking at adapters for half an hour. The smaller flange size is the only issue I have. I can fit the 2.5" over the 2" opening easily enough, and with a little trimming it will even clear the three studs. But the studs will be rubbing the pipe, so they'll have nothing to grab and no clearance for nuts or any sort of flange.

20180308_185629.jpg

20180308_185620.jpg

My thought is that if I can properly flange one side I won't have any problem using a reducing coupling on the other side. But I don't want the oversized pipe hanging from only two reducing couplings. Maybe it's time to set up the welder... :thinking:


:popcorn:
 
Looks like the manifold has a cast in "donut" ring ?..
I bet you could weld the flange to the un-flared pipe and bolt it up,and it will seal up against the taper OK...it'll probably even flare the pipe some as you tighten the nuts up..

When I deleted the EPR valve on my 6.2,that had the same cast in donut thing,without the valve in place,the manifold was flat,like a 3 bolt gasket could be used..
I made a 90 degree bend pipe I had fit by brazing the original 3 bolt flange that fit the studs and just bolted it together,didn't even use any gasket,I figured ot would just burn and blow out--it hasn't leaked at all,and I did that over a year ago,if not longer..I just filed the flange flat to it butted up tight with no gaps..
 
diesel4me said:
Looks like the manifold has a cast in "donut" ring ?..
I bet you could weld the flange to the un-flared pipe and bolt it up,and it will seal up against the taper OK...it'll probably even flare the pipe some as you tighten the nuts up..

When I deleted the EPR valve on my 6.2,that had the same cast in donut thing,without the valve in place,the manifold was flat,like a 3 bolt gasket could be used..
I made a 90 degree bend pipe I had fit by brazing the original 3 bolt flange that fit the studs and just bolted it together,didn't even use any gasket,I figured ot would just burn and blow out--it hasn't leaked at all,and I did that over a year ago,if not longer..I just filed the flange flat to it butted up tight with no gaps..
Click to expand...

No, there's a lead gasket sitting there in the picture. The manifold surface is flat. Though that manifold is the one coming off the engine. The ATS manifold flange won't actually fit those studs, the bolt holes are just a hair wider. :doah: :angry1:

So I have an ATS manifold, a 6.2 manifold, a 6.5 crossover pipe, and an exhaust kit for a late-model Duramax. What could possibly go wrong? :dunno:

wonrg_0.jpg
 
Quoted for reference:

I recently completed this swap into an 83 c10. The things you'll run into:
The water pump on the 6.5 turns the other direction so you'll have to get a new fan for the truck. This may require clearancing the fan shroud to make the fan fit.

The oil cooler lines on the 6.5 dont bolt to the 6.2 radiator, and the 6.2 lines dont clear the 6.5 exhaust manifold(which you need to use if you want to have the turbo). What I did was cut the lines in the middle- left the 6.5 connections on the engine and the 6.2 connections on the radiator and then used a brass hose barb to couple the hoses.

You have to add an electric lift pump.

The previously noted exhaust issue of basically routing the turbo down pipe through the passenger side wheel well. It wasnt to hard to trim the metal using a cutoff wheel.

Depending on what transmission you have, there may be an issue bolting up the transmission kickdown cable to the 6.5 intake/injection pump. I had issues here (4L80 tranny)

Otherwise its a straight bolt up. I used the 6.5 power steering pump hooked up to the 83 hydroboost and it worked fine
Click to expand...
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...6-5-turbo-diesel-into-83-gmc-6-2d-dually.html


I need new oil cooler lines anyway, but I reserve the right to gripe about each step further down the rabbit hole... :rolleyes:
 
I’m too lazy for all this.

Which is why neither of my 6.2’s were even considered for turbo’s.
 
AJMBLAZER said:
I’m too lazy for all this.

Which is why neither of my 6.2’s were even considered for turbo’s.
Click to expand...

I hear ya, but my goal here has always been to have fun wrenching. I don't actually drive the trucks, they're more like art projects. :haha:

At least...until camping season starts. :thumb:
 
I feel you. I used to really enjoy obtaining obscure parts for mine more than anything else.


Which is probably why when I sold it I made nearly $1000 selling rare square body parts.
70’s dealer option roll bar? Check.
European headlight assemblies? Check.
...
 
AJMBLAZER said:
I’m too lazy for all this.

Which is why neither of my 6.2’s were even considered for turbo’s.
Click to expand...


As I've aged,I find just bolting back in what belonged there originally is hard enough..:surepal:..

If I wanted more power and or my 6.2 died or needed an overhaul,I'd probably opt to find a big block, and live with 5 mpg less..no cold start woes--no starters to replace every 2-3 years--no more stuck glow plugs to burn out....no main bearing web cracks or worries about broken cranks...and it'll actually burn rubber when you floor it..:D..

My theory is if its going to take a lot of money for the right parts,and endless hours of labor and aggravation to just add a turbo to gain a slight amount of power and probably shorten the engines life,you may as well go with a bigger gas engine..

I'm not dissing the 6.2 OR you Campfire--its your truck and you can do whatever you like with it..I've been in your shoes ,I had many vehicles I should have just left stock,but didn't..after you get older the thrill of doing engine swaps and endless mods and adapting, gets to you..
I'm at the point where I want simplicity, and something easy to work on,and rarely needs any work..those old straight six three on the tree trucks are what I want now,but 20 years ago I was ripping those engines out and giving them away or scrapped them..:doah:..hindsight is a bitch..
 
diesel4me said:
As I've aged,I find just bolting back in what belonged there originally is hard enough..:surepal:..

If I wanted more power and or my 6.2 died or needed an overhaul,I'd probably opt to find a big block, and live with 5 mpg less..no cold start woes--no starters to replace every 2-3 years--no more stuck glow plugs to burn out....no main bearing web cracks or worries about broken cranks...and it'll actually burn rubber when you floor it..:D..

My theory is if its going to take a lot of money for the right parts,and endless hours of labor and aggravation to just add a turbo to gain a slight amount of power and probably shorten the engines life,you may as well go with a bigger gas engine..

I'm not dissing the 6.2 OR you Campfire--its your truck and you can do whatever you like with it..I've been in your shoes ,I had many vehicles I should have just left stock,but didn't..after you get older the thrill of doing engine swaps and endless mods and adapting, gets to you..
I'm at the point where I want simplicity, and something easy to work on,and rarely needs any work..those old straight six three on the tree trucks are what I want now,but 20 years ago I was ripping those engines out and giving them away or scrapped them..:doah:..hindsight is a bitch..
Click to expand...

I have a daily driver for daily driving. It meets all the practical needs, getting me from place to place with much better reliability than the old truck could dream of. Oh yeah, it's also FUEL INJECTED (gasoline) and computer controlled, so getting it started is never an issue. :whistle: And I rarely need to fix anything on it. So the practical needs are met. Playing with the turbine is strictly a side hobby. Yes, messing around with random bits and pieces has kept the truck off the road all winter. And that's ok, I wouldn't have been driving it even if it were together. And if I wanted real power I sure wouldn't start with a 6.2! :haha: :rotfl:


But it's not endless hours. It will come to an end, turbine or no turbine, before summer gets busy. Because camping season calls! :burnout:
 
I just hope it ends up being worth it all...it would suck if you got it all assembled and the block or crank ends up cracking ,or some other major malfunction..
I'd probably have a project like your going if I felt up to wrenching like I used too..lately I have a hard enough time just keeping my one daily driver roadworthy..(and its not really!)..
 
diesel4me said:
I just hope it ends up being worth it all...it would suck if you got it all assembled and the block or crank ends up cracking ,or some other major malfunction..
Click to expand...

Yep. Last fall the Blazer stranded me on an offroad trail in the middle of nowhere. While driving solo. :eek2: It sucked, no doubt about it, and it was an expensive ride home. But that is part of the risk built into 35-year-old trucks. I have no doubt that similar failures are inherently built into this truck as well. I hafta travel with tools and my spare parts list is slowly getting longer. Is it worth it? For transportation...no, it's not even close. If I wanted a truck I'd buy a much newer truck in a heartbeat. No way 30 extra horsepower is worth the headache of turbocharging. This will still be slower and less reliable than a stock 5.3 truck that I could buy for half as many dollars. I can still scrap what I have here and go pull a 5.3 with harness for $400. And I probably will if I manage to blow this engine up. It would be better in every way, except for one. It would not be the project I have in my head at this point. I need to finish up this one so I can check it off my bucket list. But for someone in your shoes I'd never recommend this path. It is not the path to happy driving, it's just the path to happy wrenching. You need a newer truck that doesn't break every time you look at it.
 
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