If you want quite you want a very large turbo muffler. Probably the worst performance muffler ever.
I have had luck with running 2 mufflers.
I have had luck with running 2 mufflers.
CK5
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The Great Smaug
- Thread starter campfire
- Start date
I'll go wake up the sleeping CUCV and get some comparison numbers.
Eric, the bar is set pretty low right now. I love how quiet the blue truck is, but really I just need to be quieter than the current glass pack setup.
We straight piped my kids 01 6.6 You wouldn’t want to be in a quiet campground with it! 
Even at idle it’s loud.
Even at idle it’s loud.
My next "clueless newbie" issue has to do with the turbine oil line. I don't have the original line, so I'm working backwards here. The Garrett TO4 turbine has what looks like a 7/16" 45* flare fitting in lieu of the common bolt-on flow-reducing plate. I could unthread that and bolt on a plate. But as it is, it has an unrestricted oil flow.
The internet is full of folks saying the T04 needs flow restriction to avoid oil leakage. And Garrett isn't much help on this point. But that doesn't match what I have here.
https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/oil_water_plumbing
I originally bought a -4AN oil line and then swapped it for this one after I realized that I'd be needing an adapter on the turbine end. But the pinhole orifice in the plate is bothering me.
https://amazon.com/gp/product/B077P4T1YV/
Am I crazy for wanting to keep the full-flowing oil line? I understand that a single bearing won't benefit from a huge oil line, but I don't understand the disconnect here. The oil return line has 5/8" inner diameter, the pinhole doesn't make any sense.
P.S. - I've come to hate the confusing similarity between 45* and 37* fittings. They're just similar enough to mess things up.
The internet is full of folks saying the T04 needs flow restriction to avoid oil leakage. And Garrett isn't much help on this point. But that doesn't match what I have here.
https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/oil_water_plumbing
I originally bought a -4AN oil line and then swapped it for this one after I realized that I'd be needing an adapter on the turbine end. But the pinhole orifice in the plate is bothering me.
https://amazon.com/gp/product/B077P4T1YV/
Am I crazy for wanting to keep the full-flowing oil line? I understand that a single bearing won't benefit from a huge oil line, but I don't understand the disconnect here. The oil return line has 5/8" inner diameter, the pinhole doesn't make any sense.
P.S. - I've come to hate the confusing similarity between 45* and 37* fittings. They're just similar enough to mess things up.
All I'm finding is the M1004S 24" case. Am I missing something?
https://www.rvautoparts.com/M1004S-...MIoqapttq_2QIVjz2BCh0DkAH9EAQYCyABEgJ_3_D_BwE
This is what I was thinking of:
MBRP M2029 30" Aluminized Muffler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OAZCLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_w5JKAb82X2YWC
David
How is that different from the "Quiet Tone" model linked above? They're both 30" overall length, 24" case length.
I'm gonna throw in the extra $20 for the 409 Stainless version. Slow the salt down a bit.
I think they’re same but for material. Point the louvers forward, and I bet you’ll be pleased.
David
David
I'd be happy with a straight pipe if it had actual exhaust flowing through it.
Exhaust pipe ordering is still waiting for that picture of Greg's Diamond Eye kit. I can consistently find a 4" 409 stainless exhaust kit for a more modern diesel for $250 (and sometimes less, last week I blinked and missed a $180 kit on fleabay). The 6.5 kit comes with a 3" down pipe up to the top of the manifold. The ATS kit has a 3" output directly beneath the stock 6.2 2.5" output. Pointed slightly downward. If the 6.5 kit contains a 3" reducer on the horizontal leg it should bolt up very nicely. If it's built into the downpipe (which I don't need) I'll be needing an adapter. Oddly enough the kits (regardless of make or model) seem to be a cheaper than buying bulk 4" 409 tubing, and they're already bent up.
Looking though the Walker Exhaust catalog, the 5.9 and 6.7 CTD exhaust systems also have a similar bend leading up to the downpipe. If the 6.5 angle is too steep.
Any way I slice it, I cannot wait for the weather to break. Motivation is flowing and dripping just like the icicles on my roof.
And yes, I should have bought at last week's price.
Looking at your muffler picture, it looks like your passenger-side exhaust crosses over to a driver-side muffler before crossing back to the passenger side.
This is all true.
The clocked 205 leaves no room for routing the exhaust straight down the passenger side, so it crosses over at the trans dust cover. For my setup, a passenger side exit made the most sense in terms of general packaging requirements and the desire for a higher than normal exit.
Get under the blazer with you box of bends, and you’ll see a path open up. There are really only three sticking points - how the downpipe routes past the frame rail, how you route over the front driveshaft and front t-case output, and how you combine the over axle hump with the space constraints that come from using big pipe with larger radius mandrel bends. Be open to pie slices and creating ovals where clearances demand.
Take your time. Go slow.
David
Will do! And slow? I'm 4 years into this project and I think I have a grand total of 2500 miles on it. I'm not even 100% sure I've changed the oil in this thing yet.
For me that counts as slow.
The ATS manifold solves the frame rail problem, which is quite nice compared to the 6.5 kit I was going to use. So I have one problem knocked out already. And I don't think the axle will be a problem. I mean, 4" pipe is only 3/4" more radius than I currently have with the 2.5" pipe. And the old pipe had all kinds of clearance!
lol nice touch with the Top Gear orangutan quote.
This is the biggest benefit I see in running the ATS kit instead of the stock 6.5 setup - Your setup dumps the downpipe on the wrong side of everything. Mine dumps out below the stock location, so I don't need to fight the frame rail. Which is important given that my frame rails are 3" closer together vs. yours.
Anyway, here is the exact angle that I'm dealing with (stock photo). It would be parallel with the crossover pipe if it were angled inward a little bit.
But thanks to the bulky casting I skip the entire downpipe assembly that doesn't fit well with the square body frame.
I see what you are saying now. You might be able to make it work. But I can’t guarantee the pipe would even be round in that area. The cross section might even be square, that’s how much this down pipe is messaged.
But I do like that 45* exit. That would make things easier.
