The Green Grendel

[Chevy305]

The "special" fluid is really just a GL-4 fluid.
I use Redline Synthetic MT-85. It's cheaper than the GM or Mopar fluid while matching all the specs.

Red Line (50504) MT-85 75W-85 GL-4 Manual Transmission and Transaxle Lubricant - 1 Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004D4URV6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_m-WdybC9G4W06

 

[beags86]

Get outta my thread!

The LS swap will happen when I get tired of playing with oil burners. So far it's still fun; when that changes, I'll find something else to play with. And, yes, it will be something new enough to have MPFI if I ever switch back to smelly explosive fuel.

But you could still say you had a 6.2.....

 

[AgDieseler]

I'm lost. I just hear tranny noise and a rattly old IDI with holey exhaust. I don't hear lifter noise in there.

Just kidding. It's a great sounding engine, which to the uninitiated can sound like lifter rattle. Years ago, a (not too smart) guy said that to me as I was pulling into the local Pep Boys.

Great progress, and keep at it.

David

 

[GWeakland620]

So when does progress start on the Overlanderburban?

 

[campfire]

The "special" fluid is really just a GL-4 fluid.
I use Redline Synthetic MT-85. It's cheaper than the GM or Mopar fluid while matching all the specs.

Red Line (50504) MT-85 75W-85 GL-4 Manual Transmission and Transaxle Lubricant - 1 Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004D4URV6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_m-WdybC9G4W06

I did a little shopping around yesterday and it looked like I'd be paying $17 per quart ($68 per gallon) whether I went with Red Line or GM sauce. Prices after shipping.

I didn't find any other GL-4 transmission fluids during my short search, but I did find this useful document describing the differences between GL-4 tranny fluid and GL-4 gear oil. Good reading.

http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf

 

[campfire]

So when does progress start on the Overlanderburban?

Don't know. We're still flat broke. As in, broke enough that I'm not actually pushing the "order" button, I don't have an extra $100 to put into fluids right now. I'm putting in pieces that we already paid for, but buying new stuff will hafta wait for now. Maybe in a couple of months the Overlanderburban will get funding. Right now we're still throwing money into my house build. Every time I think we're getting to the end of things another project comes up!

 

[campfire]

So when does progress start on the Overlanderburban?

Plus, I broke the hydrobooster yesterday, I'm not sure what my options are for repairing that screw-up.

Pictures in that thread.

 

[kgblazerfive]

There is some generic stuff that the parts stores sells that is the same thing. Still not cheap but not as expensive.

 

[Justin V]

 

[campfire]

You and me both.

Nobody had input on the chattering / difficulty synchronizing?

 

[beags86]

You and me both.

Nobody had input on the chattering / difficulty synchronizing?

sometimes the high quality oil can help make that go away.

 

[campfire]

sometimes the high quality oil can help make that go away.

Ok, I will seal up the rear end and raise the fluid level before I complain too much.

 

[Justin V]

I would worry about 4th and 5th until a few miles get on this thing and it is properly filled. I've had several transmissions fight 5th gear in particular due to lack of fluid. It took one over a hundred miles to finally drop into 5th. Never had another problem until the day I grenaded it.

 

[campfire]

I would worry about 4th and 5th until a few miles get on this thing and it is properly filled. I've had several transmissions fight 5th gear in particular due to lack of fluid. It took one over a hundred miles to finally drop into 5th. Never had another problem until the day I grenaded it.

An NV4500? What caused the failure? If you say a failing 5th gear synchro I'm going to laugh at you.

 

[Justin V]

No, not an NV4500. But the same logic applies. 5th gear being farthest from the action can mean it takes longer to get properly lubricated.

Every single manual trans that I have grenaded was a Mitsubishi product.

Almost all of them were the result of AWD clutch dumps north of 6500 rpm. 3 of them were bad enough that the cases were exploded.

 

[campfire]

No, not an NV4500. But the same logic applies. 5th gear being farthest from the action can mean it takes longer to get properly lubricated.

Every single manual trans that I have grenaded was a Mitsubishi product.

Almost all of them were the result of AWD clutch dumps north of 6500 rpm. 3 of them were bad enough that the cases were exploded.

Ok. I can guarantee this tranny will never see that type of abuse for 2 reasons. First, my driving style is patient and cautious. Second, that poor engine won't get to 6500 rpm under any foreseeable circumstances.


And if anything ever did break structurally I'd expect it to be either the aluminum bell housing or the aluminum tail housing.

5th gear makes good sense, it's back in the tail housing and I can clearly see that there isn't a significant amount of lube back there. I'll get it buttoned up and retry it.

 

[Justin V]

The Mitsubishi's are built that way, 5th is separated from the rest of the party. There is literally an aluminum case section that sits between 5th and the rest of the gears.

 

[campfire]

The Mitsubishi's are built that way, 5th is separated from the rest of the party. There is literally an aluminum case section that sits between 5th and the rest of the gears.

In this case the aluminum tail housing (with 5th gear) is a separate bolt-on case.

 

[Justin V]

My bet is poor lubrication at the moment.

 

[skunked]

There is some generic stuff that the parts stores sells that is the same thing. Still not cheap but not as expensive.

GM synchromesh? Penzoil makes it for half the cost.