Okay what I am saying is that if you rev up the truck passed 1200 or so that is enough to get them charging not positive if that is enough to keep it charging when it slows back down or not.
CK5
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The Green Grendel
- Thread starter campfire
- Start date
Over the weekend I finished my shifter. I cut the bent end off of an SM465 shifter and welded a 16MM nut on the end for my stub shaft. Then I straightened the shaft's second bend with a torch. Then I returned my borrowed NV4500 shifter (@78K30 
).
I trimmed both boots to provide clearance, but the it did not turn out as well as I had imagined. It does work, and both shifters coexist peacefully (even if the boots don't). But I wish I had trimmed 3/8" less off of the left side of the SM465 boot. I should have had it overhang the NP208 boot instead of cutting it flush.
I already miss my O/D shifter knob...
For future reference, the stock NV4500 shifter is ~18" from nut to base of shifting knob. My shifter is 17.5" because that's how long the shaft is unless you straighten the second bend. I don't notice the 1/2" difference when shifting.
).I trimmed both boots to provide clearance, but the it did not turn out as well as I had imagined. It does work, and both shifters coexist peacefully (even if the boots don't). But I wish I had trimmed 3/8" less off of the left side of the SM465 boot. I should have had it overhang the NP208 boot instead of cutting it flush.
I already miss my O/D shifter knob...
For future reference, the stock NV4500 shifter is ~18" from nut to base of shifting knob. My shifter is 17.5" because that's how long the shaft is unless you straighten the second bend. I don't notice the 1/2" difference when shifting.
Interesting. I haven't heard that about field-driven alternators before.
Not sure why it happens but the CUCV alternators are famous for that. Won't start charging until it's been rev'd up. Then works fine.
"New" shifter looks good! My ZF5 in my F150 also has a custom bent shifter from an old 4 speed on it.
New steering column is in. Again, it seems sad that I've done enough of these to have the bolt sizes and locations memorized.
But the steering is much tighter now. In the front, at least.
But the steering is much tighter now. In the front, at least.
And I have a working hi/lo switch now. And the wiper switch isn't intermittent.
The only downside is that the new horn switch isn't working. Not sure if that's worth tracking down or not.
The only downside is that the new horn switch isn't working. Not sure if that's worth tracking down or not.
Did it help your door issue at all?
Which one?
I tightened up a loose door hinge bolt while I was down there, but I still wouldn't call these great doors by any stretch.
The issue where you don't have enough of them.Which one?
I tightened up a loose door hinge bolt while I was down there, but I still wouldn't call these great doors by any stretch.
Alright, @Csm Davis. It's time to track down this alternator issue. Taking a second look at the wire I accidentally arced, I do think that's my smoking gun. I accidentally grounded the "+" wire going to the volt meter. It arced, and now has no voltage reading. Exactly like a fuse blew. That's precisely when the alternator light stopped working, and the circuits do feed off the same alternator post (albeit indirectly).
Here are a couple relevant diagrams from steel soldiers. The orange VM wire is what I smoked. It heads toward the gauge cluster, but does not meet at the fuse block like the diagram says.
Do you know off-hand what fuse-like thing would do this? The alternator isn't out of commission, it's just the dash that's screwy.
Here are a couple relevant diagrams from steel soldiers. The orange VM wire is what I smoked. It heads toward the gauge cluster, but does not meet at the fuse block like the diagram says.
Do you know off-hand what fuse-like thing would do this? The alternator isn't out of commission, it's just the dash that's screwy.
Somewhere on Steel Soldiers, in the past two months or so, someone posted a huuuuuge file (multiple GBs, I believe) that is a pdf with every electrical tidbit ever discussed on SS, regarding the CUCV. I have it saved if you need me to email it to you; I tried posting it here but it is too large. That may hold the key.
Personally, I wonder if you blew a reverse polarity diode somewhere. They tend to be horizontal black cylinders, not tapered in the middle like a resistor, rather strictly cylindrical in shape, and not vertical like a capacitor. Worth a guess...my two pennies for the day.
EDIT TO ADD: A quick search of that pdf reveals no mention of a reverse polarity diode...however...perhaps the alternator literature would be that specific.
EDIT again because I had time to kill...here is a link to that document:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?163054-CUCV-Electrical-PDF
Personally, I wonder if you blew a reverse polarity diode somewhere. They tend to be horizontal black cylinders, not tapered in the middle like a resistor, rather strictly cylindrical in shape, and not vertical like a capacitor. Worth a guess...my two pennies for the day.
EDIT TO ADD: A quick search of that pdf reveals no mention of a reverse polarity diode...however...perhaps the alternator literature would be that specific.
EDIT again because I had time to kill...here is a link to that document:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?163054-CUCV-Electrical-PDF
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Happy weekend, all yoos guys. Today I'm pretending to be a tiny farm tractor. Without the amazing turning radius.
Had to stop because the swampy pasture was tearing up. I'll finish dragging it around on a drier day.
Had to stop because the swampy pasture was tearing up. I'll finish dragging it around on a drier day.
Also moved the trailer around. This rig's bumper hitch is too high to level this trailer.
Good looking truck. Maybe it's the 5 speed.
David
David
Ugh non matching wheels.
It is normal for trucks and trailers to have different rims, no?
That level of fleet-wide matching is beyond my abilities...
