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The Green Grendel

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Been busy with other things today, but the truck drove backwards an inch, and back forwards an inch. I need to attach exhaust, CDR, and air cleaner, troubleshoot the primary alternator, and complete the coolant flush. Otherwise it's ready for road testing, I didn't find any new issues. :saweet:
 
Another day of non-wrenching. I did fire it up for about 4 minutes to flush out the radiator. Not a drop came out of the upper hose. The heater core return line was working, so I guess there's zero thermostat bypass on this engine. Which makes sense, it just surprised me.

I sorted through the tools & parts on the trailer and got them ready for a scrap run. Then fired the truck up again and drove it into the barn.


We're close, boys. Very close.
 
Blue85 said:
Isn't a disassembled 6.2 worth like $75 in scrap?
Click to expand...

Nope. Took the block, heads, 7 pistons, and 3/4ths of the crankshaft to scrap today. 580 pounds for the skeleton. @AgDieseler, that's past the point of "big boned" for only making 150HP. :rolleyes:

But at $115/ton, it still brought just $33.35.

There's still a pile on the trailer, but that was the bulk of the bulkiness. Last week their aluminum price was lower than their steel price. This week they're within a rounding error. Weird.
 
campfire said:
Nope. Took the block, heads, 7 pistons, and 3/4ths of the crankshaft to scrap today. 580 pounds for the skeleton. @AgDieseler, that's past the point of "big boned" for only making 150HP. :rolleyes:

But at $115/ton, it still brought just $33.35.

There's still a pile on the trailer, but that was the bulk of the bulkiness. Last week their aluminum price was lower than their steel price. This week they're within a rounding error. Weird.
Click to expand...
I told you around 35
 
Alright. Yesterday I hooked up exhaust and found a steady dripping off the back side of the engine. After nervously looking at the head gasket I found the thermostat crossover was weeping at one of the new gaskets. Phew. Took it apart and struggled with how to get the gasket changed without redoing the alternator. I wound up removing the nipple for the heater hose and slipping the bracket out of the way. While reassembling it I put the bracket on and then remembered I had to start the nipple first because of the interference. :rolleyes:

I put them together in the proper order, started tightening it, and the aluminum casting split. :doah: :doah:

Round 3. I grabbed the original military crossover pipe and tore my brand new gaskets back off. Turns out that "RightStuff" is mostly (but not entirely) cured after 10 or 15 minutes. It's kindof a sticky goo at that point. Buying the needed gasket sets for this engine yields 3 sets of crossover pipe gaskets. So I had extras. Even after installing this pipe 3 times this week, I have some left over from the Burb build. Put it back together and again put the alternator bracket on too early. I'll figure it out someday. :rolleyes:

So that job took 2 hours instead of 1. Also bled a few gallons of hose water through the block. But it stayed clean the whole time, so I filled it back up. Alternator is back online (ground line was missing).
 
Today I swapped the tailgate (for fun) and then fired it up for a test run. It immediately stalled in 2nd gear. Twice. I threw it in granny gear and limped it out to the road. On the road it would barely move. Increased throttle just created a large smokescreen. Pretty near useless as a vehicle. The engine sounds like it's crunching rocks (as always), but it feels smooth and balanced. There's a slight overtone, almost like a pinging. I know I have a bunch of variables, but I'm suspicious of timing.

CDR & air cleaner are missing (intake howl is probably contributing to the sound I'm hearing). Timing set is new, and internal timing marks were checked twice (at least). The IP was transplanted to the new block, and aligned as follows:

20180909_193524.jpg

I do not have the means to get accurate timing information from the engine, so it's just set a couple line-widths to the right. No rhyme or reason beyond internet folk lore (the Haynes and CUCV manuals just say to use proper equipment).

It starts nicely and idles smoothly, it just won't get off idle. :1zhelp:

@AgDieseler, @KirsL, is there something glaringly wrong here? Are the marks too far apart for an engine with a new timing chain? :dunno: :1zhelp:
 
For reference, here are my timing marks from the Burb engine.

Old timing chain:

imgp6683-jpg.252091


New timing chain. Moved it back a little bit because of the new chain.

imgp6707-jpg.252104
 
Some dark & blurry pictures for the peanut gallery.

20180909_193316.jpg


20180909_193305.jpg



20180909_193332.jpg

Test fitting of the tailgate. I like it, even if the left side is bent inward.

20180909_193345.jpg

20180909_193401.jpg

It looks bad on this corner.

20180909_193409.jpg

But the rest of it is a very good fit.

20180909_193422.jpg


My first thought is to shim out the left 1/3rd with weatherstripping. But I'll keep noodling on it. I tried reshaping it with a sledge hammer and a piece of wood, to no avail.

Overall, I do think it's a better fit than the old tailgate was.
 
Does the 6.2 have a timing pointer? I’ve got that transducer for setting timing using a timing light I could send up there if you’d like to use it. Used it on my 7.3 and it was nice to be able to check timing
 
78K30 said:
Does the 6.2 have a timing pointer? I’ve got that transducer for setting timing using a timing light I could send up there if you’d like to use it. Used it on my 7.3 and it was nice to be able to check timing
Click to expand...

Here is what I have to work with (borrowed from the burb thread). There's a pointer, but I have no idea how it's set. And the balancer has no marks.

imgp6710-jpg.252103


I have the transducer for the TinyTach, but I don't have the ability to drive a timing light. Plus, isn't there a phase shift due to the time delay as the pulse travels through the line? Seems like I'd need to mount the transducer as close to the pump as feasible just to get in the ballpark. :dunno:
 
campfire said:
Today I swapped the tailgate (for fun) and then fired it up for a test run. It immediately stalled in 2nd gear. Twice. I threw it in granny gear and limped it out to the road. On the road it would barely move. Increased throttle just created a large smokescreen. Pretty near useless as a vehicle. The engine sounds like it's crunching rocks (as always), but it feels smooth and balanced. There's a slight overtone, almost like a pinging. I know I have a bunch of variables, but I'm suspicious of timing.

CDR & air cleaner are missing (intake howl is probably contributing to the sound I'm hearing). Timing set is new, and internal timing marks were checked twice (at least). The IP was transplanted to the new block, and aligned as follows:

View attachment 276690

I do not have the means to get accurate timing information from the engine, so it's just set a couple line-widths to the right. No rhyme or reason beyond internet folk lore (the Haynes and CUCV manuals just say to use proper equipment).

It starts nicely and idles smoothly, it just won't get off idle. :1zhelp:

@AgDieseler, @KirsL, is there something glaringly wrong here? Are the marks too far apart for an engine with a new timing chain? :dunno: :1zhelp:
Click to expand...

Timing looks fine, I have mine advanced more then that. You could try and set it at "0" by aligning the marks and seeing how it sounds.

This is the same pump and injectors that were on the engine that broke the crank right?
 
I don’t have much good advice to offer, except to make sure the IP drive gears are aligned properly. My adjustments have only been the classic “dime widths”, validated by the MT480 timing meter. Usually, I end up very close to “zero.” More boost usually means less timing.

Consider bumping the pump to a few different positions to experiment.

David
 
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