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The Green Grendel

As the temperatures drop I'm finding this refreshed engine fires off even better than the old one. 34 degrees this morning sounded just the same as a summer startup. I've had a couple of 6.2 engines that would be starting to ask for extra plug time by now.

Learning new things is cool. :cool:
 
Yeah i
As the temperatures drop I'm finding this refreshed engine fires off even better than the old one. 34 degrees this morning sounded just the same as a summer startup. I've had a couple of 6.2 engines that would be starting to ask for extra plug time by now.

Learning new things is cool. :cool:
F it has good compression and fuel is adequate for the temperature aka with addictive or #1 it should start just as easy until it gets to single digits.
My old perkins with no glow plug system and on one battery would start first revolution after being buried in the snow up to the frame and right at midnight.
 
Over the weekend I listed it locally for sale. It's gotten 3 bites so far. The first one came from the kid who bought the blue truck. How is that even possible? :rolleyes: He was just trolling for stick shift swap info. Kinda weird that he's looking to rip out my newly-built 700R4 to do the swap I always wanted, but life is funny like that. Today I was offered a "1969 driving Chevelle" in trade.



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I can't even spell 'Chevelle,' nor do I know much about them. And I have no use for one. But it's probably the coolest trade I've been offered yet.


:popcorn:

Are you forking crazy? A 68 chevelle even in rough condition like that is far better then some old worn out 6.2 blazer.

Remember he offered so tell him you need the Chevelle and a couple grand, or a grand, and then sell the chevelle for the 5 you wanted for that deeslow. It's rough, but I have seen hardtop chevelles in worse shape non running and not moving go for that or more!
 
Are you forking crazy? A 68 chevelle even in rough condition like that is far better then some old worn out 6.2 blazer.

Remember he offered so tell him you need the Chevelle and a couple grand, or a grand, and then sell the chevelle for the 5 you wanted for that deeslow. It's rough, but I have seen hardtop chevelles in worse shape non running and not moving go for that or more!

He sent some more pictures, and it's trashed. He's spray painted over what looks like some deep salt fog rust. I believe him when he says it sat by the ocean. Interior is a bit hacked (here and there). It's also titled in Puerto Rico. I haven't looked into how easy that is to transfer, but the whole offer smells like a scam. The second and third round of pictures don't match the clean underbody shown in the first shots. Something fishy is going on there.

From my perspective, I have absolutely no use for a trashed Chevelle that has been sitting for who knows how long. But I do have some use for my perfectly-running Blazer. I know the 2-door Chevelle is more desirable. But the entire motivation to sell the Blazer is to get away from the 2-door architecture. So it would need to be an easy flip to interest me. I thought about it for a few days and decided that this car is going to need a salesman (i.e., not me) to get it pawned off, especially in this area. The headaches outweigh the benefits.

Based on the picture backgrounds I can tell you exactly where the car has been sitting. It's not too far of a drive for you to come up and snatch it. Sounds like it would be easy money since you actually know what you're looking at.
 
Well the trailer is still hooked to the big block from the last chevelle:saweet:











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Sorry, I missed the picture. Yeah, that's the right corner. I've been through there dozens of times and never given a second thought to that little shop next to the outfitters.

Did you call the number yet? :whistle:

:popcorn:
 
Yeah if it has good compression and fuel is adequate for the temperature aka with addictive or #1 it should start just as easy until it gets to single digits.
My old perkins with no glow plug system and on one battery would start first revolution after being buried in the snow up to the frame and right at midnight.

I dunno...I've had 7 flavors of this engine, and not been impressed with the cold-starting ability. Nor have I encountered anyone who has been (aside from you). I gave 15 seconds of glow time to the burb today, and it still took 10 seconds of cranking to get it running (at 30 degrees, it's not even winter yet). 2 months ago it would have fired off within the first rotation. Cold is not the friend of a 6.2.


Unless you meant single digits on the Celsius scale. :dunno:
 
24v from two big tractor batteries and the fancy 24v aftermarket glow plugs makes a 6.2 start REALLY quick. Even in Traverse City.
 
Update (with hindsight) - The truck has continued to have sporadic power loss. I've tweaked the timing several more times, but I'm chasing my tail as the timing isn't staying steady. On Tuesday the truck stalled out coming home from work. I checked the fuel line for kinks and continued nursing it home. It fired up exactly like it should, but would start starving for fuel after a short interval. In the course of that 8 mile drive, it got sicker and sicker, to the point where it would barely run for 10 seconds at a time. When I got home I threw on my fuel pressure gauge and found that I had no loss of fuel pressure. After some tracing I found I had good pressure and flow at the inlet to the IP. I pulled off the inlet housing and checked the internal strainer (perfectly clean). The engine repeatedly fires up exactly like it should, and then starves out. I'm not getting sufficient flow through the IP to keep the engine happy. Could be a failure of the internal regulator or the transfer pump. Or maybe a leak further inside the pump.

But any way I slice it, that IP is sick, and the truck is down while I wait for Fedex to bring me a replacement. I thought about disassembling the regulator and seeing if the spring broke, but that seems like a desperate gamble. Wacky internal fuel pressure may have ruined some of the seals downstream, and I don't have the fixtures or instruments required to calibrate a rebuilt DB2. I'm not even sure where to buy that exact spring, if it is the root of the problem.
 
On Tuesday I made a few phone calls looking for second opinions on the symptoms (thanks, guys!)

On Wednesday, when I was most confusedest, I gave @AgDieseler a call to get his take. David, I'm sorry I bothered you on your vacation. Looking back, I should have known better than to call right then. :( On the bright side, you did inadvertently talk me out of trying to rebuild that regulator in place. That would have probably wasted more time with little chance of success. So...thanks anyways? And sorry. At the same time. :1zhelp:
 
Injection pump arrived today, and is now installed. The only oddity is that setting the idle required cranking in the idle screw almost to its limit. But, now that it's there, the idle sounds healthy. On the test drive I saw some smoke, but I need to come back in daylight to really assess the timing properly. That'll hafta wait until tomorrow.




Patience has never been my virtue. :rolleyes:
 
How long does it take you to replace the pump?

I spent 3 hours from start to finish. The intake was already off, so that saved a few minutes. Most of the time was spent struggling with the injector lines. Would have been a lot easier 2 months ago when the assembly was sitting on the bench. :rolleyes:
 
Man, you work fast.

Sometimes. I still haven't tested the new headlights on the other truck. :rolleyes:

I have a couple buyers asking to come see this one, so delaying helps nobody. I'm not a very motivated seller, but it's not like I'm dying to have dead vehicles piling up everywhere.
 
I spent 3 hours from start to finish. The intake was already off, so that saved a few minutes. Most of the time was spent struggling with the injector lines. Would have been a lot easier 2 months ago when the assembly was sitting on the bench. :rolleyes:

Oh, the air cleaner is still off, and I'll be tweaking the timing for a while. So it's not 100% complete yet. Budget 4 or 5 hours for the whole job, at my working pace.
 
Think it may have been the fuel shutoff solenoid crapping out ?..
Seeing they sit in a puddle of diesel their entire life I'm surprised they last as long as they do..

I had the one in my Suburban "stick" after sitting,I had to pull off the top cover on the IP and squirt carb cleaner on the linkage and whatever it operates and work it back and forth manually until it was free enough to open fully with the solenoid ,then I was finally able to get it to start and run again..
I have a "spare" IP but it had a different design fuel shutoff solenoid,so I didn't dare swap it in by itself--the whole pump would fit & work probably,but I've never attempted to swap one and didn't feel like trying and messing it up and never get it running again..
 
Think it may have been the fuel shutoff solenoid crapping out ?..
Seeing they sit in a puddle of diesel their entire life I'm surprised they last as long as they do..

Nope, the shutoff functioned independently of the fuel shortage problem (I shut it down numerous times halfway through the stalling cycle). And the wandering timing points to a failed regulator. I already decided not to bother with trying to fix the regulator. Pressure variations can damage several internal seals, so it's not worth the headache. Mylex rebuilds these pumps for $400. Junkyard pumps are cheaper yet. For 5 hours of (fairly un-fun) work, it doesn't make sense installing a known bad pump and simply hoping that there are no more problems downstream. Known good pumps are too cheap to take that risk. It's not like getting stranded is cheap, either. ;)
 
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