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The headache build..

JDNobodi

3/4 ton status
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looks nice... a helluva lot nice than mine. lol.
so many things to work on, so little time. *sigh* :(

engine small.jpg
 
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Hey man, where did you get that little gauge on your thermostat housing? Your engine bay looks pretty clean.:waytogo: Do you have your wheel wells removed?
 
I got the gauge at Jegs.http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_750805_-1_10339 I used a thermostat housing the takes a ½" pipe fitting and used 1/2" to 3/8" reducer to fit the gauge. If I used a housing that the gauge would screw in, the probe would the thermostat. The reducer spaced it out enough to clear.
Yes, I removed the inter-fender wells. The blazer is a sand toy.
 
Ok, I tried to put my water temp sensor in there and ran into that same problem. So I put it into the manifold. It would be nice to be able to work on the truck and know what the temp was without having to go back to the insice of the cable. Cool I"ll check it out.
 
Cut from the same picture above.

I hope it is clear enough for you.

Edit-I think I'm becoming a picture whore.
 
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the longer I do this the shorter the list gets. but I think it is kinda exponential. everytime I search I find somtin else I need. Didnt even know I needed it
 
JDNobodi said:
Too bad it is going in this ugly POS.
74racing_a.jpg
I don't see an ugly truck in this picture (?) :dunno:
 
The only problem with the guage being mounted there is that it's on the wrong side of the thermostat to read correctly. It needs to be in the manifold in order to read the correct temp as that's where the HOT water is.
 
Yeah, I've thought of that. I'm hoping the bleed hole would let enough warm coolant to get an acute reading. So far it seems to work okay. It slowly rises to temperature as the motor warms up. It doesn't jump when the thermostat opens. It does not get the same reading as my in-cab gage, but it is not a big difference to cause me to worry.
For me it worked okay, but I could see where it wouldn’t work as planned.
 
Oh, I didn't see Craig’s and thealien's posts.
thealien-It cost me $200 to get all that coated. What is not shown is the factory rear and PTO covers which is also coated. I'm not going to use those pieces because I got a NWFab billet kit.
Craig-I like the looks of the second generation blazers also which is why I own one, but this blazer has a cheap peeling and fading red paint job. If the blazer had an immaculate rust color (name of the paint, not the rot), I’ll be in heaven.
 
What kind of intake is that? Looks like a tall, open plenum.
 
It's a Dart oval port. It had to be modified to fit factory heads.
 
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Holy crap! How do you get an open plenum to run at lower RPM's, especially a Dart?

Motor sure looks nice with the intake and those tall valve covers, too.
 

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