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CK5
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@Liamking01 I took the liberty of copying your info into your build thread.
Looks like youre off to a great start. Youth, enthusiasm, and asking for help here will make this a great experience for you!
Overview
This truck means a lot to me - Mom passed a couple years back while I was in college. I bought this truck after graduating to give me something to work on and take pride in. It has given me structure and comfort after her passing. I have a clear memory of being in a grocery store parking lot at about 8 years old and seeing a Blazer for the first time. I asked Mom what it was and she told me and said that she loved them too and could see me owning one - I wanted one ever since.I bought the truck in North Carolina after it had been a weekend toy for a Marine (3rd owner). He had brought it with him from Oregon a year prior to me purchasing it. For this reason, it has very minimal rust under the truck. Not sure the rest of the history, but I have found sun fading where stickers used to be for a firehouse - one on the front windscreen and one on the tailgate trim. Could've lived in a fire station at some point?
There is a laundry list of things that need to be updated and worked on. I am very limited on funds as I am still young trying to figure all this old tech out hahaha. My main priorities at the moment (in order) are:
- Brakes - I have new, steel coated, soft lines and need to flush the brake fluid as it is completely black in color
- Steering - I got spendy before I knew what I was doing and went ahead and bought a whole new steering assembly - tie rods, adjusting sleeves, all new joints, pitman arm, steering box, steering shaft etc.... - waiting to install
- Wheel Bearings have a lot of play - purchased new ones
- Tires - 33x11.5xr15 are showing dry rot and don't have a date code
- Wiring Harness - has been cut up and spliced into everywhere, confusing as all get out - Rear taillights for example only get 6v - thinking about buying and installing a new harness all together
- Drive shaft U joints - have a lot of play and clunks pretty bad between reverse and drive
- Exhaust manifold is cracked
- Not sure when the timing belt was last changed or if it has been
- The body could use some work - hood is cracked on either side of the latch, tailgate is misaligned, body lift leaves weird gaps
- AC System is there but not connected - not sure why this is, bought it like that but must be a reason this guy didn't have it connected during the summertime at the beach.
- Rebuilt Transmission
- New Intake manifold gaskets
- New Shocks
- Flushed radiator and new hoses
- Fixed Small wiring troubles
Specs
Year: 1986Make: Chevrolet
Mode:l K5 Blazer
Trim Level: Silverado
Interior: Blue
Factory Options: AC
Engine: 305
Transmission: TH700R4
Transfer Case: It's in there (NP208)
Steering: Power
Suspension: stock with 3" body lift
Axles: Locking Front Hubs
Wheels: Chrome
Tires: old
Paint Not Original: Silver and black
Dash is at 97k - not sure if its already rolled over once, twice or even at all.
Still Learning a lot here! The truck is 15 years older than I am and I have no previous experience working on cars. Learning through youtube, books and this forum as I go.
Notes
Still learning the ins and outs of the forum!
Could use some quick advice on a couple of my many wiring mysteries:
- Noticed somebody clipped the wires to my dome light in the past. I am having issues thinking on why they were cut. Will I be taking any risk by splicing the wires back together for the time being?
- My taillights are only receiving 6v. The break lights work fine. The left turn signal works fine. The right blinker activates both turn signals. I have searched for where it is dropping the voltage on the wire from the taillights to under the dash. It has clearly been messed with a number of years ago as I found a household wire nut tucked up by the gas tank but current is still running through it. Any advice on where to start probing with a multimeter and how to think about that sort of issue?
I am saving up some cash to re-wire the whole car, but having taillights lets me keep driving it at night for the meantime.
Thanks,
Liam
- Noticed somebody clipped the wires to my dome light in the past. I am having issues thinking on why they were cut. Will I be taking any risk by splicing the wires back together for the time being?
- My taillights are only receiving 6v. The break lights work fine. The left turn signal works fine. The right blinker activates both turn signals. I have searched for where it is dropping the voltage on the wire from the taillights to under the dash. It has clearly been messed with a number of years ago as I found a household wire nut tucked up by the gas tank but current is still running through it. Any advice on where to start probing with a multimeter and how to think about that sort of issue?
I am saving up some cash to re-wire the whole car, but having taillights lets me keep driving it at night for the meantime.
Thanks,
Liam
The turn signals both running when you turn one side on is an indicator of a bad ground.
That also explains the voltage drop.
I say check your grounds at every light fixture
check all the bulb elements. Sometimes when one element breaks it connects to other in the 1157 type bulb, this back feeds the second circuit and lights the other side. could be front or rear. Give any trailer wiring a thorough inspection. tail and brake wiring should uninterrupted loom from firewall bulkhead connector to rear bumper. the bulkhead connector could be the source of resistance, dropping the voltage to 6v.
I don't have any advice on your wiring but that is a great looking Blazer! Congrats! Looking forward to this build thread.
It's really cool seeing someone who was, if I'm doing my math correctly, born in 2001 building a Squarebody!
It's really cool seeing someone who was, if I'm doing my math correctly, born in 2001 building a Squarebody!
Not sure when the timing belt was last changed or if it has been
@Liamking01
the Chevrolet 305 uses a timing chain; not a belt. it is not a maintenance item like a Honda where replacement is recommended at so many miles
also, just so you know; your front bumper is correct for 73-80; 81 up uses a different one
@Liamking01
the Chevrolet 305 uses a timing chain; not a belt. it is not a maintenance item like a Honda where replacement is recommended at so many miles
also, just so you know; your front bumper is correct for 73-80; 81 up uses a different one
Thank you for that knowledge!
Nice looking Rig to start with. Excited to follow the thread.
@Liamking01 Where are you in NC?
Thanks.
Getting after it today! Bossman let me bring the truck into the cabinetry shop and work in there all weekend. In the past, I have only been able to work on my truck in apartment parking lots hahaha. Pretty obvious - but working in a shop is sooo much nicer. Can finally start to work efficiently - played some tunes, didn’t have to worry about spills, tools were everywhere - great time. Having a supply of random crap and tools at my disposal made a huge difference in progress too.
Anyways, I’m tearing off and replacing all the steering joints, the gearbox and power steering lines. Got all that disassembled for the most part. I’m having problems with getting the joints to separate. Bout tore through a dead blow hammer trying to get them off and nothing. Just bought a tie rod fork and am going to give that a shot tomorrow on day two.
Ran into another issue with the rag joint on my steering shaft. I know, I know, I should’ve gotten the one with a u joint on either end but I bought all this stuff long ago before I had the vaguest clue as to what I was doing and didn’t do any research. I just saw worn out parts and bought replacements. Attaching pictures of the half of the rag joint that attaches to the gearbox. I have the rebuild kit from borgeson with the rubber disk and bolts - but I can’t figure out how to get this thing apart. Tried a pry bar with no success and tried putting a socket in the center and press it with the vice with no success. Anyone got advice?
Thank you to all who are following my build page and I really do appreciate the feedback!
Anyways, I’m tearing off and replacing all the steering joints, the gearbox and power steering lines. Got all that disassembled for the most part. I’m having problems with getting the joints to separate. Bout tore through a dead blow hammer trying to get them off and nothing. Just bought a tie rod fork and am going to give that a shot tomorrow on day two.
Ran into another issue with the rag joint on my steering shaft. I know, I know, I should’ve gotten the one with a u joint on either end but I bought all this stuff long ago before I had the vaguest clue as to what I was doing and didn’t do any research. I just saw worn out parts and bought replacements. Attaching pictures of the half of the rag joint that attaches to the gearbox. I have the rebuild kit from borgeson with the rubber disk and bolts - but I can’t figure out how to get this thing apart. Tried a pry bar with no success and tried putting a socket in the center and press it with the vice with no success. Anyone got advice?
Thank you to all who are following my build page and I really do appreciate the feedback!
They are riveted at the back of the pins. I have not seen one rebuilt.
Oof yeah I’m seeing that now. Gonna have to order that one to the parts store. Is there a brand to buy that’s fairly rigid? Or are they all the same?
I don't have a clue. Is that one coming apart? I have never had to change one because of failure.
It may be all the PS fluid caked on it and I don’t really know what I’m looking for in terms of wear - but it just seems kinda worn out. The rubber disk is pliable and soft compared to one that came with that rebuild kit I accidentally bought. If I don’t need to spend $60 on a new one then I’m happy to throw this back in hahaha
No directions with the new kit?
Look here….
Look here….
Back to the Basics: Rebuilding a steering coupler rag joint - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network
Back to the Basics: Rebuilding a steering coupler rag joint Suspension
67-72chevytrucks.com
so popping the the tapered studs, a dead blow is not the hammer of choice. Use a 2 pd plus steel face hammer. Strike the eye the stud goes through. Don't hit the stud. A pry bar tensioning the ball socket in out direction can aid in popping loose when striking the eye.
