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The Leak! I know, but mine has PICS. NP241

dieselndixie

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austin, tx
So, I have the leak, It doesnt seem to be leaking from the seal at all. Is the shaft supposed to be out that far? It looks like it coming from inside the slip yoke.

Now, I added more trans fluid to my transmission because mine was low...then went wheeling. got back, and the leak was worse than it had been before but hard to tell where it was all coming from. Was it because I added fluid to the trans, and maybe the seal from trans to tcase is bad? or just coincidence.


Keep in mind when you are suggesting fixes, that I plan on installing a 4" lift very soon if that changes anything. Plus I am open to both temporary fixes and permanent fixes.

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It's coming from the slip yoke itself. There is a hole at the end of the slip yoke, some epoxy to seal it up and it should be pretty leak free after that. The amount it sticks out looks about right. Mine sticks even farther out...almost enough to make me nervous.

Remove the driveshaft, have a 5 gallon bucket ready as the ATF will pour out of the tail shaft housing when you pull the slip yoke part out. Clean the slip yoke with brake cleaner and some compressed air (wear eye protection...duh!) JB weld or similar to seal the hole, re-assemble.

Rene
 
yep like rene said. mine use to leak, i replaced the seal (which was a pita to find at the parts store cuz the computers kept giving me the wrong seal), and it still had a slight leak. slip yokes are just an inferior design, especially if you are lifting the vehicle and such, like most people do with these trucks.
 
Whats been said in conjunction with the fact that your tcase takes 5 PINTS not 5 QUARTS. I dont care what it takes for it tome come out the fill hole its 5 pints thats the specifications. Any more and your putting unnecessary pressure on the slip yoke that causes the common "I cant get this ****ing slip yoke to stop showering my undercarriage" case.
 
best i can tell, its leaking out of the slip yoke, inside the joint. and slinging around when driving. I am going to try the approach of removing the slip yoke, and trying to plug that hole with some jb weld unless told otherwise....
 
A, how about a slip yoke eliminator kit. Let's face it, your going to lift it and do some wheeling anyway, why not stop the leak as well as potential vibrations from said lift early in the build:dunno:
 
I had same leak and was told same thing, slip yolk, but another member here said not to seal that hole in the slip yolk as its to prevent it from hydro locking. Just get new slip yolk about 60 bucks or so. BTW I have not done mine yet but will soon. I also have 89 241.
 
where can I get more info on the whole SYE process. does it involve a different driveshaft? with a 4" lift coming, will I need to do this anyway?

I know nothing about this, so please fill me in....
 
where can I get more info on the whole SYE process. does it involve a different driveshaft? with a 4" lift coming, will I need to do this anyway?

I know nothing about this, so please fill me in....

It will require you remove the tcase, disassemble it, reassemble it with a new output shaft and new tail housing. Yes it will require a new driveshaft. It is really the be all end all in doing the rear driveline the correct way.
 
so, its a good time to do this, once i get the lift installed? what will I need to do as far as getting the correct length?

also, is there a general cost range that this should cost , including the new drive shaft? just needing to plan...
 
I've never run into this problem, so I can't say for sure. So, if sealing the hole works, no problem.
But it sounds dangerous to me.
That fluid has to get to that hole around the splines. There cannot be much clearance, since the fluid does not just pour out.
So, if you plug the hole well, then the space between the end of the yoke and the end of the shaft will gradually fill with fluid as you drive.
Especially if you drive on level surfaces where there is not much suspension movement.

If you then bottom out the suspension suddenly after it gets full, there not going to be anywhere for the fluid to go.
Something is going to give.
And its not likely to be something cheap.

I suspect the problem is worn splines. Replacing the yoke might work, since its often softer than the shaft and so it's splines are more likely to be the worn part.

Heavy grease on the splines would probably cure it for a while.

Some automatic transmissions on 2wds have an 'O' ring that helps seal the spines from fluid, and some jeeps have a "star" seal on the end of the shaft to stop fluid from getting past the end of the shaft.

With the venders here, surely someone could come up with a seal that could fix the problem without having to replace the yoke.
Here is what I'm talking about.

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that makes sense....

but now I am wondering if this will just get worse after a lift. the slip yoke eliminator sounds like a good idea...but I need a cost range, and what parts are involved. (even where to order)

do I have to take my rig into a driveline shop and get mine lengthened or something? this is greek to me...
 
i can find the price for the SYE, what is the range of cost on the driveshaft side of the conversion?
 
I paid over $200 for a whole new rear shaft. your pricing may vary depending on where you live.
 
Somebody has a package where you tell them the setup of your truck and they sell you the SYE AND a replacement shaft. Forget who though...
 

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