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THE Official FREE or cheap modification thread!

Ben B.

1/2 ton status
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Sep 1, 2005
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Location
Central PA
List all those little tips and tricks you know that make our rigs perform better that can be done for little to no money!

[I'm interested if there's any way to make Qjet operate better at steep angles, but LIST EVERYTHING!]



1. Remove your front sway bar! I get great flex and an improved ride.


Continue...
 
Theres actualy ALOT that can be done to a q-jet but its too complicated for me to explain it all. But when rebuilding one theres a few very important things to remember. In no order, just numbered to make sure they get covered.

1) seal off the casting plugs at the bottom of the carb. I use epoxy glue now as jb weld has failed on me once.
2) make sure the jets match as well as the needles and the needles to the jets
3)ALWAYS replace the secondary jets (look like tiny brass washers pressed into the holes where the secondary needles go) also inspect those needles very carefully and replace them if they look worn at all.
4) MOST IMPORTANT should have been #1 the base plate has brass bearings the butterfly shaft rides on if these have any slop find another one cuz they are a bear to replace.
5)never forget to adjust the floats

I personaly prefer pre 1979 carbs to rebuild and prefer the "ROCHESTER" versions the most. If your carb has ANY electrical conection other than electric choke dont waste your time on it. Your best bet is to find several simular carbs to swap parts and stuff to make the best carb you can. I also personaly think the 795cfm versions are the perfect carb for almost any small block and all but the meanest big blocks. I know it sounds like alot of carb for a mild small block but they can be tuned down if you know what your doing.

You can expect to see alot of weird things inside a q-jet i have found 2 diff primary jets washed out secondary jets and 4! differnt needles in ONE carb.
Now the technical parts are more complicated and i wont get too deep into it. But there are tons of jets and needles to do exactly what your looking for. The hardest part is finding a sorce to get the parts you want. I happen to know a guy that taught me how to tune and rebuild q-jets and he is my sorce for parts. And finaly please dont ask me to rebuild one for you rebuilding q-jets takes alot of time to do right and i would basicaly have to guess at what you want and im sure i would get it wrong. sorry that didnt answer your question very well but now you know they are a little more complicated to do right, and thats why there is a bad rep for them.

Balzer
 
take off the top. It is like 250 pounds. If you don't need it take off the tailgate and back seat. They weigh a ton.
 
turn your breather top upside down so you can hear the fourbarrel kick in better. runs tons better :haha:

i've never messed with a q-jet but hear they're a piece to work on. i personally like edelbrock
 
chrome spray paint + instrument cluster/reflector = HOLY CR*P! you can see the guages at night!
 
need droped lines for lift but no money? lower the frame mount for the hose. drop it to the bottom of the frame rail. good for around 4" lift fitment on the 81-91 frames.
 
Read books; they're free at the library. Otherwise, most "how to" books are $15-30.
When you climb with the Q-Jet, the bowl vent pukes into the venturies. Stick a fuel hose extension on it or make a longer tube.:D
I have the cartridge brass to make a new tube, send a PM.
 
Home made shackle flip, did mine for some effort and less than $40.
Check the adjustment on the air valve of a q-jet. Those springs wear out and the valve can open to quick, giving you bog.
Yank out the stock fuel filter in the q-jet and replace with an inline one.
Get at least a little power inverter, suprising how often you need to plug something in out on the road or trail, like say you're alone, stuck, and forgot to charge your cell phone - don' t ask :).
Way to solidly fasten you're cooler down. Can't have your icy beverages rolling around the floor of your truck.
 
The best cheap mod i have found is cheap parts trucks, if you look youll find bargains all the time. See something sitting in someones back yard and you want it? It dont cost anything to ask, and it may be cheap. I just bought a 79 c30 3+3 with a running 6.2 for $200. thats cheap. It has a ff14b single rear wheel, sm465 with PTO, and is the base for my newest project. SOMETIMES the owner tells you you can have it if you haul it off!!!!!!!!! freebies rock!

Balzer
 
Superlift Scratch and Dent stuff on eBay

Decent shocks... $10 each! Especially useful for ordering longer shocks (pdf application charts that list shocks by length and mounting format available too) if you've done the Ford shock tower mod...

F250 or late model Super Duty shock towers. Junk yard or dealership...usually under $25 for a pair. Bolt them to your frame to raise you upper front shock mounts, thus allowing longer shocks, thus allowing more travel...even with stock springs you'll get more droop when the axle is crossed up.

Both of these things mentioned repeatedly elsewhere on this forum (I take no credit!) but thought they should be in this thread given the title :)
 
I did my shakle flip for around 7 dollars. Thats how much the 1/4 steel cost that I used to gusset it cost.
 
Well this isn't supper cheap, but it should be the first mod on EVERY truck regarless of the intended use: ORD bolt on steering box brace for around $115 or something like that.
 
Buy some replacement lines from Car Quest for a 2000 and up chevy 1500; they're about six inches longer than stock 88 and prior lines and work quite well.:D

-84 GMC 2500 long bed, 355SB-400 Horse mighty mouse, D60 rear(welded!):o , 10 bolt front:( , High angle drive shafts, NP205, SM465 trans, 6" leaves, revearse shackles, 40" IROKS on 16.5 welds, cut-up fenders, a true grit, make it or break it attitude and still cheaper than an old lady; especially since I play with her every day.
 
Chevy305 said:
Well this isn't supper cheap, but it should be the first mod on EVERY truck regarless of the intended use: ORD bolt on steering box brace for around $115 or something like that.
I'm not going to bother buying that :doah:
 
cgassett said:
Buy some replacement lines from Car Quest for a 2000 and up chevy 1500; they're about six inches longer than stock 88 and prior lines and work quite well.:D

-84 GMC 2500 long bed, 355SB-400 Horse mighty mouse, D60 rear(welded!):o , 10 bolt front:( , High angle drive shafts, NP205, SM465 trans, 6" leaves, revearse shackles, 40" IROKS on 16.5 welds, cut-up fenders, a true grit, make it or break it attitude and still cheaper than an old lady; especially since I play with her every day.

are you talkin brake lines?
 
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