Uploading pics right now...gimme a few minutes.
Rene
Rene
CK5
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The Original Jaws Blazer Build
- Thread starter Chief Brody
- Start date
Pic one: easiest to see adjuster bolt
Pic two: this bolt needs to be a little loose to allow the bracket to move
Pic three: this is the other adjuster bolt on the underside of the pump
Hope that clears things up.
Rene
Pic two: this bolt needs to be a little loose to allow the bracket to move
Pic three: this is the other adjuster bolt on the underside of the pump
Hope that clears things up.
Rene
Man, that's fantastic! I have looked for hours and bought that manual and all I need to do was ask...that's why I love this place!
You know what would be really nice to do would be to create a library on this forum that is catalogued by each year...like 1974 Blazer. Then put the documents and photos like you just sent me and index everything...that way somebody could search for 1974 Blazer, power steering, then pump and belts.
Having photos and experience posts would be fantastic...it would be better than meta tags...
You know what would be really nice to do would be to create a library on this forum that is catalogued by each year...like 1974 Blazer. Then put the documents and photos like you just sent me and index everything...that way somebody could search for 1974 Blazer, power steering, then pump and belts.
Having photos and experience posts would be fantastic...it would be better than meta tags...
Well, that's what some of us were hinting at when we were saying spend a few days/weeks etc reading and searching here.
BTW the pic's were from an '87 I had laying on my carport floor, but they didin't change much over the years...at least til they went serpentine.
It's OK to be at a novice stage of square body knowledge and repair/building. We all were there, and most of us learned all this stuff the hard way. Most of our learning and stuff is here on CK5 somewhere. Sometimes the "search ju-ju" is just bad, so you gotta ask again. No big deal.
We just want you to do a few things.
1) Don't bite more than you can chew.
2) Enjoy the hell out of the build process.
3) Get the results you dreamed of.
Leave your pride at the door and I don't see any problems. There are only 50,000 of us to help...
Rene
BTW the pic's were from an '87 I had laying on my carport floor, but they didin't change much over the years...at least til they went serpentine.
It's OK to be at a novice stage of square body knowledge and repair/building. We all were there, and most of us learned all this stuff the hard way. Most of our learning and stuff is here on CK5 somewhere. Sometimes the "search ju-ju" is just bad, so you gotta ask again. No big deal.
We just want you to do a few things.
1) Don't bite more than you can chew.
2) Enjoy the hell out of the build process.
3) Get the results you dreamed of.
Leave your pride at the door and I don't see any problems. There are only 50,000 of us to help...
Rene
Jaws is my absolute favorite movie and if I hadnt already bought my 71 i'd be searching for a 73-75 for the simple reason that I fell in love with them from that movie.
The one I bought is so clean and straight I don't need to do much to it...that was the point in buying this one...I am not a pro or even semi-pro...I have always done my own brakes, timing chains, head gaskets and stuff like that, but I have never done extensive body work...
That's why I wanted this one blazer so much....it fits my abilities and means right now...
if you dont see 1 of the sloted adjusters look on the waterpump side. some older stuff had a tab on the water pump for a adjustment slot.
I fixed the oil leak today and found a bracket for the a/c compressor...so far things are fairly easy fix...
I am at a junction now though....the gas gague does not work and I can knock on the tank and tell that it is almost empty...now is the time to drop the tank if I need to.
I looked all around under there tonight and I could not find that elusive "ground wire" that everyone talks about...I thought I would try that first since my gague reads way past full....
Where is it usually hiding?
I am at a junction now though....the gas gague does not work and I can knock on the tank and tell that it is almost empty...now is the time to drop the tank if I need to.
I looked all around under there tonight and I could not find that elusive "ground wire" that everyone talks about...I thought I would try that first since my gague reads way past full....
Where is it usually hiding?
If you're referring to the fuel sender wire, if comes off the very top of the tank.
Hard to see unless the tank is out, but you should at least be able to see a wire running down the drivers side framerail that travels to the tank area and disappears.
There are only a few wires running to the back of the truck...the rest are for the turn & brake signals.
Hard to see unless the tank is out, but you should at least be able to see a wire running down the drivers side framerail that travels to the tank area and disappears.
There are only a few wires running to the back of the truck...the rest are for the turn & brake signals.
Is it part of the flat ribbon of wires that I see?
I think I am just going to go ahead and drop the gas tank tomorrow...any words of wisdom from someone who has done this recently?
Do you need to disconnect the hoses before you drop it or will they come down with it?
My tank looks fairly easy to get to...looks almost like a new one...
I think I am just going to go ahead and drop the gas tank tomorrow...any words of wisdom from someone who has done this recently?
Do you need to disconnect the hoses before you drop it or will they come down with it?
My tank looks fairly easy to get to...looks almost like a new one...
The ribbon is probably the rear taillight stuff (yellow, green, brown)
My fuel wire runs down the same side but it's a separate wire (brown) yours might be too. A factory schematic for your year would help a lot. Search. I know they've probably been posted here before...I know the 1st Gen ones have.
Good luck.
My fuel wire runs down the same side but it's a separate wire (brown) yours might be too. A factory schematic for your year would help a lot. Search. I know they've probably been posted here before...I know the 1st Gen ones have.
Good luck.
a day of failures
Today was a day of failures...I dropped the tank and found the ground wire...it was undone...I connected it to the sender wire and saw the gas gauge move down so I put the tank back on...it stopped at 3/4 of a tank...I don't believe that can be right, I certainly don't believe that there is 3/4 of a tank of gas in that tank....
I decided to actually drive it around for about 4 miles today. When I got back the tempurature gauge was reading 220 and then 230 and rising.
I went and got a thermostat and changed it out and put new coolant in it. Started it back up...same thing. I don't understand it...there is good flow when I look down into the radiator.
It feels like a wasted day and not only that but new problems to boot...
Today was a day of failures...I dropped the tank and found the ground wire...it was undone...I connected it to the sender wire and saw the gas gauge move down so I put the tank back on...it stopped at 3/4 of a tank...I don't believe that can be right, I certainly don't believe that there is 3/4 of a tank of gas in that tank....
I decided to actually drive it around for about 4 miles today. When I got back the tempurature gauge was reading 220 and then 230 and rising.
I went and got a thermostat and changed it out and put new coolant in it. Started it back up...same thing. I don't understand it...there is good flow when I look down into the radiator.
It feels like a wasted day and not only that but new problems to boot...
I don't know...I just got it 2 weeks ago and today is the first day I drove it out of my driveway.
By the way, it has a SunPro that somebody installed under the dash.
was it actually overheating? rad steaming? might wanna verify the gauge/sender are ok... senders cr*p out all the time...
one of the best tools i own... ir temp gun.....
and verify your gas gauge is ok.... take the sending wire from the tank, and touch it to a grd.. it should pin the gauge..... if the truck has been sitting, you may have a sticky float....
one of the best tools i own... ir temp gun.....
and verify your gas gauge is ok.... take the sending wire from the tank, and touch it to a grd.. it should pin the gauge..... if the truck has been sitting, you may have a sticky float....
We have a thermal gun at work that I use on the server room to see how cold it is...I can borrow that.
Before I fixed the sender wire, they were laying bare wire on the tank and they were grounded...it was pegging at the 3 o'clock position.
I shook the truck and heard the gas sloshing around, I figured that would resettle the float.
Do you think it's the sending unit?
Also, I wanted to hook up an original temp gauge (don't know where it is on the engine), but I can't get the instrument panel off because of the stubborn manual choke lever that has me baffled....
Before I fixed the sender wire, they were laying bare wire on the tank and they were grounded...it was pegging at the 3 o'clock position.
I shook the truck and heard the gas sloshing around, I figured that would resettle the float.
Do you think it's the sending unit?
Also, I wanted to hook up an original temp gauge (don't know where it is on the engine), but I can't get the instrument panel off because of the stubborn manual choke lever that has me baffled....
with the truck on, the fuel sending wire grded, yes it will go to full.. when you let off that grd, it should go to empty.. if not the gauge is the prob... if it goes to empty, then it's the sender....
as to the overheat... yes, take the IR and check the intake manifold right below the thermostat.... the temp sender with a carbed rig will either be in the intake manifold on top, in the front, or they possibly could have it in the ds head, but stock should be in the intake...
you can test that gauge the same way, disconnect the send wire from the sender, turn the ign on, grd the send wire, it should peg the gauge....
as to the overheat... yes, take the IR and check the intake manifold right below the thermostat.... the temp sender with a carbed rig will either be in the intake manifold on top, in the front, or they possibly could have it in the ds head, but stock should be in the intake...
you can test that gauge the same way, disconnect the send wire from the sender, turn the ign on, grd the send wire, it should peg the gauge....
With the truck on and the wire grounded it was pegged at the 3 o'clock position, with the ground off it was still at the 3 o'clock position...with it attached to the sending unit it is at the 3/4 full position.
"3/4 full" on the guage is always closer to 1/2 a tank IME. Every square body I've owned is like that. From "overfull" when you fill it, to the 3/4 mark is close to 1/2 tank in volume.
Rene
Rene
