You'll need an aftermarket pitman arm, something that allows you to run a drag link style tapered end. Then just some tubing and a couple threaded inserts.
CK5
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Basically like this stuff that I just took out of my K5.
Basically like this stuff that I just took out of my K5.
Will probably wait till I put the 60 in then. That way I’m not doing work twice.
When you get the 60 in. Lemme know. I need a xover in the Jimmy
With how it is now you wouldnt be doing anything twice, if you are doing crossover on the 60 its just replace a cap with a steering arm and bolt the draglink back down.
All you have to do with the 10 bolt is swap the box, or sector shaft, new pitman arm and run a draglink.
I felt like my steering wheel smoothed out on the road with cross over. The roads in oregon where i used to live would pull the wheel hard when you hit a big bump in the road with push and pull style steering.
All you have to do with the 10 bolt is swap the box, or sector shaft, new pitman arm and run a draglink.
I felt like my steering wheel smoothed out on the road with cross over. The roads in oregon where i used to live would pull the wheel hard when you hit a big bump in the road with push and pull style steering.
Will do. Will be next year sometime. Hopefully sooner rather than later. I have half a mind to make it to BB19 ...
So I would be using the same drag link on the 60 as I would be on the 10 bolt. Does the fact that my 60 is a dodge make any difference? Perhaps in length of the draglink?
Better make it a whole mind!!!!!! That's a long trip.
I was gonna mention when I was towing with my 6.2 220 is about as hot as it got. I ran it there for about 20 miles foot to the floor going 25 mph.
Serpentine belt swap with the newer 6.5 water pump and the fan should help. That's the plan for my Jimmy but I'd imagine you already knew that
That’ll be in the works at some point in the future. Right now I’ll swap in my 195 tstat and see what it does. But those upgrades will definitely be coming.
My wife has already told me that if we make that trip we will also be going to the Grand Canyon, Albuquerque, Four Corners, and some other places along the way.
I suppose I can go ahead and ask this question and start getting some feedback. Trying to decide on whether I should regear to 4.56 or 4.88 when I build the 60. The 14 will be getting a Detroit and regear as well and I plan on bumping back up to the 37” size of the tires I have now, Procomp AT Sports. My thoughts are that in the chance I ever go to an even larger tire, it would be great to already be at 4.88s and not have to do the work again. My 6.5 is NA and will stay that way for a while so maybe the 4.88s will help with the 37s? The RPM calculator says I’ll be at 2183 rpms at 70mph which seems like a pretty good spot.
I am also running a dodge 60, and I ran a 10bolt/D44 before that. The dodge is actually narrower, so when it comes time to swap, you cut one end off and weld in a new threaded insert. Super easy.
^^ what he said, i went from a d44 to a dodge 60, my skyoffroad draglink had just enough threads to be short enough.
Bluebird paying a visit while my wife’s car is getting an oil change. Headliner will be going in within the next couple of weeks.
The engine is fine at 2200RPM. You can cruise well at 1800RPM with that engine, and I run mine slower than that. So 2200 in O/D is overdoing it a little bit for road use. But you're not going to hurt anything aside from mileage and perhaps your ears (depending on your exhaust).
I think David's running 4.56 gears with 40s. But don't quote me on that.
He’s got 4.88s with the 40s and has commented on how much happier the engine is with the 40s vs the 38s.
Calculator says I would be at 2040 with 4.56 and 1834 with 4.10 which is what I have now, when I move to 37s. Calc gives my 33s and 4.10s 2,015 rpm so almost seems like if I stay with 4.10s and go to 37s, I will have the same net effect as David’s 38s to 40s with 4.88s.
If I remember correctly, the engine seemed pretty happy with my worn out military 37s. I remember being relatively impressed with the truck's ability to move down the road on the trip home after purchase.
So perhaps the best thing to do is stick with the 4.10s. I guess I was thinking since I have to regear the 60 anyways, now might be the best time to gear to 4.56 or 4.88. But I suppose it makes more sense to build for what I actually do, instead of what I might do. I guess if I ever do find that I need a lower gear ratio, they aren’t that expensive so it won’t hurt to do it again.
Easier yet...change tires before you regear the D60 and see how you like it. If not happy, pick a ratio then, after you better know exactly what you want.
Was thinking that very thing
Well I’ve got a short one night camping trip coming up in a couple weeks and am using it as a deadline to get the following list of small projects done:
- finish battery box
- install steering column
- install new ignition switch
- swap turn signal switch and shift lever from old column to new column
- install front cab lights
- install rear cab lights
- install interior lighting
- install LED dash light bulbs
- install headliner
- install new radio - DONE
Got the radio in last night. Didn’t take any pictures of the process and don’t have a before pic, but I think everyone is familiar with how this goes. As usual, the wiring was a nightmare, so I cleaned that up. Actually I cut it all out back to the factory harness and redid it all. I don’t have the plastic surrounding for it so everything is exposed, but it is firmly in place (the old radio was just sitting in the hole and could easily be yanked out). I figure since this truck is a work in progress not a show truck it’ll be okay to go without the surround. Looks like the PO did the usual thing of cutting and bending back the sides to make room for the single din radio, but cut too far on the right side. You can’t see it, but I bent those back just far enough to put some pressure on the radio cage to help hold it in place and give it some side support. The rest of it is held up by the bendable tabs on the cage. It’ll do for now. I anticipate as I get my welding skills up that I’ll cut all this out, weld in a new recantgular piece with a cut out in it specifically sized for the cage. Perhaps even with a fully welded box for extra support. That’s not high priority right now though.
Sound is great. Much more volume than before. The old radio was dying and not putting out much volume and was hard to hear music on the road. Doubt that’ll be a problem now.
Don’t judge me, it’s not pretty, but it works. Function before form. Form will get there.
- finish battery box
- install steering column
- install new ignition switch
- swap turn signal switch and shift lever from old column to new column
- install front cab lights
- install rear cab lights
- install interior lighting
- install LED dash light bulbs
- install headliner
- install new radio - DONE
Got the radio in last night. Didn’t take any pictures of the process and don’t have a before pic, but I think everyone is familiar with how this goes. As usual, the wiring was a nightmare, so I cleaned that up. Actually I cut it all out back to the factory harness and redid it all. I don’t have the plastic surrounding for it so everything is exposed, but it is firmly in place (the old radio was just sitting in the hole and could easily be yanked out). I figure since this truck is a work in progress not a show truck it’ll be okay to go without the surround. Looks like the PO did the usual thing of cutting and bending back the sides to make room for the single din radio, but cut too far on the right side. You can’t see it, but I bent those back just far enough to put some pressure on the radio cage to help hold it in place and give it some side support. The rest of it is held up by the bendable tabs on the cage. It’ll do for now. I anticipate as I get my welding skills up that I’ll cut all this out, weld in a new recantgular piece with a cut out in it specifically sized for the cage. Perhaps even with a fully welded box for extra support. That’s not high priority right now though.
Sound is great. Much more volume than before. The old radio was dying and not putting out much volume and was hard to hear music on the road. Doubt that’ll be a problem now.
Don’t judge me, it’s not pretty, but it works. Function before form. Form will get there.
Little video of the sound and volume. The front and rear speakers I had already replaced.
