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The RedBurb

Every Part Is Replaceable
SO today was our first “off road” adventure! Nothing crazy, still don’t have 4x4 so did not venture anywhere where it would be needed. But it was nice to get out into nature and explore around.


My wife was a good sport to be my videographer, and the boys loved it.

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We stumbled onto a camp site just in time to stop for lunch ...

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So like I said, didn’t attempt anything serious without 4x4, but there were some muddy spots where I did have to put the engine to work, and I was very impressed and happy with the responsiveness and torque of the engine.

All in all, it was a very good experience.

B6BF705B-872C-4ADC-82C0-73CA1C8B1693.jpeg BC1B954D-D085-43A1-ADA5-EA7EE4A23A4E.jpeg
 
SO today was our first “off road” adventure! Nothing crazy, still don’t have 4x4 so did not venture anywhere where it would be needed. But it was nice to get out into nature and explore around.


My wife was a good sport to be my videographer, and the boys loved it.

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We stumbled onto a camp site just in time to stop for lunch ...

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So like I said, didn’t attempt anything serious without 4x4, but there were some muddy spots where I did have to put the engine to work, and I was very impressed and happy with the responsiveness and torque of the engine.

All in all, it was a very good experience.

View attachment 297172 View attachment 297171


Fun! Such bright green colors. Looks like a tropical jungle. To my eyes, at least. ;)
 
You made her walk back home? :eek1: :doah: :1zhelp:

Haha no, that’s just her since of humor. After I made the turn, I stopped and backed up to pick her up.

Fun! Such bright green colors. Looks like a tropical jungle. To my eyes, at least. ;)

Well it is.

Yeah it kind of is. We went to a local state forest, lots of pine trees, palmettos and other green things. Was sunny with a high of 80*, so was a perfect day to get out and explore.
 
Back to troubleshooting and repairs ...

Ever since I got the truck running again, I have been experiencing an odd issue ....

After driving the truck, stopping, and shutting down, if I try to then immediately crank it back up, it won’t start. It does exactly what it was doing when I was trying to start it up for the first time a few weeks ago: acts like the batteries aren’t putting out enough juice. But if I wait 20-30 minutes, the truck will start right up. Let it sit overnight, no problem. It’s only immediately after shutting it down. I’ll add, that when driving, the volt meter reads REALLY high, like maxed out most of the time (this is also a new development).

I’ve read in general Google that a high voltmeter reading means overcharging which. Can damage the batteries, which I definitely don’t want to do, since they are Optima Blue Top batteries barely a year old.

In the short 2 years that I’ve owned the truck, I’ve replaced both the batteries and the starter, but I’ve never touched the alternator. Could it be that the alternator is bad and it’s time to replace it?

I have tried google but am coming up with too general of answers, so I figured I would check here.
 
But of course the voltmeter reads an even 13V on my drive home right after I posted the issue. Lol.
 
Back to troubleshooting and repairs ...

Ever since I got the truck running again, I have been experiencing an odd issue ....

After driving the truck, stopping, and shutting down, if I try to then immediately crank it back up, it won’t start. It does exactly what it was doing when I was trying to start it up for the first time a few weeks ago: acts like the batteries aren’t putting out enough juice. But if I wait 20-30 minutes, the truck will start right up. Let it sit overnight, no problem. It’s only immediately after shutting it down. I’ll add, that when driving, the volt meter reads REALLY high, like maxed out most of the time (this is also a new development).

I’ve read in general Google that a high voltmeter reading means overcharging which. Can damage the batteries, which I definitely don’t want to do, since they are Optima Blue Top batteries barely a year old.

In the short 2 years that I’ve owned the truck, I’ve replaced both the batteries and the starter, but I’ve never touched the alternator. Could it be that the alternator is bad and it’s time to replace it?

I have tried google but am coming up with too general of answers, so I figured I would check here.

High voltage at the battery means that the battery is receiving charge quickly (whether or not it is needed). A fully-charged 12V batter should read about 12.5 volts. They cannot receive charge until they get 13.8 volts, and a rapid charge should be about 14.5 volts (or so). The battery will absorb as much current as needed to get the voltage down closer to 13.8 volts. If the battery is too full to store the energy, it is released as heat. Heat damages the battery plates and boils off the water (which is why old timers used to check water levels in each cell).

First off, use a trustworthy voltmeter to check the calibration of your dashboard voltmeter. I have a couple vehicles that aren't actually charging unless the needle is reading 17 volts. The battery is really getting about 14.5V, which is good. But the gauge is off enough to be worrisome. So first figure out whether or not you have a problem.

Second, I'm not understanding your issue just yet. Are you saying that it fails to crank over? Like the engine is seized or the battery is dead? And then the problem goes away by itself? That doesn't make much sense. If it were a battery problem, it would not get better with time. Usually cranking is easier with warm engines.

:thinking:
 
But of course the voltmeter reads an even 13V on my drive home right after I posted the issue. Lol.

Check that against a voltmeter, too. If your needle was on the red, and then dipped down to 13V, you likely weren't charging the battery on that last drive.

Figure out what your voltages really are, and that will tell you which component to investigate.

:popcorn:
 
High voltage at the battery means that the battery is receiving charge quickly (whether or not it is needed). A fully-charged 12V batter should read about 12.5 volts. They cannot receive charge until they get 13.8 volts, and a rapid charge should be about 14.5 volts (or so). The battery will absorb as much current as needed to get the voltage down closer to 13.8 volts. If the battery is too full to store the energy, it is released as heat. Heat damages the battery plates and boils off the water (which is why old timers used to check water levels in each cell).

First off, use a trustworthy voltmeter to check the calibration of your dashboard voltmeter. I have a couple vehicles that aren't actually charging unless the needle is reading 17 volts. The battery is really getting about 14.5V, which is good. But the gauge is off enough to be worrisome. So first figure out whether or not you have a problem.

Second, I'm not understanding your issue just yet. Are you saying that it fails to crank over? Like the engine is seized or the battery is dead? And then the problem goes away by itself? That doesn't make much sense. If it were a battery problem, it would not get better with time. Usually cranking is easier with warm engines.

:thinking:
You're forgetting the starter gets heat soaked and is hard to start then it cools off and it is fine.
You can shield the starter and you can put a relay to get more juice to the solenoid and help with hot start
 
High voltage at the battery means that the battery is receiving charge quickly (whether or not it is needed). A fully-charged 12V batter should read about 12.5 volts. They cannot receive charge until they get 13.8 volts, and a rapid charge should be about 14.5 volts (or so). The battery will absorb as much current as needed to get the voltage down closer to 13.8 volts. If the battery is too full to store the energy, it is released as heat. Heat damages the battery plates and boils off the water (which is why old timers used to check water levels in each cell).

First off, use a trustworthy voltmeter to check the calibration of your dashboard voltmeter. I have a couple vehicles that aren't actually charging unless the needle is reading 17 volts. The battery is really getting about 14.5V, which is good. But the gauge is off enough to be worrisome. So first figure out whether or not you have a problem.

Second, I'm not understanding your issue just yet. Are you saying that it fails to crank over? Like the engine is seized or the battery is dead? And then the problem goes away by itself? That doesn't make much sense. If it were a battery problem, it would not get better with time. Usually cranking is easier with warm engines.

:thinking:

Check that against a voltmeter, too. If your needle was on the red, and then dipped down to 13V, you likely weren't charging the battery on that last drive.

Figure out what your voltages really are, and that will tell you which component to investigate.

:popcorn:

I’ll definitely check all of this out. I can see the possibility that the volt gauge is off. I’ve got a voltmeter so I’ll be sure to check it out.

As for the problem, no not that the engine is seized but rather that the batteries or starter are not getting enough juice.

You're forgetting the starter gets heat soaked and is hard to start then it cools off and it is fine.
You can shield the starter and you can put a relay to get more juice to the solenoid and help with hot start

This could potentially be the problem. I had no idea this happened with starters but it makes sense. It seems this is exactly what is happening with me. Even today, drove the truck for about 20 minutes, it got up to temp, then shut it down. Immediately cranked it and no start. I walked away for only ten minutes then came back and tried again and it cranked right up. A little sluggish but it made it. Drove it two more times tonight after that, each after the truck sitting for about an hour and a half and each time it started right up no problem.

It sounds like then that my wacky volt gauge readings and starting issues may actually be separate issues. I’ll check it all out and see what I can find.
 
Sticking with my tendency to chase rabbits, I finally pulled my rear bumper off today. Have been wanting to for a while so I could see how bad the rust damage is underneath. And because I really disliked the bumper. The bottoms of the quarter panels will get trimmed off since that’s where most of the rust damage is. Will keep the hitch on for now as the acting bumper until I get something else built.

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Not a whole lot going on lately. Have been super sick with a stomach bug so that kind of limits my work.

Picked up a tube bender from a buddy who is very supportive of me learning the trade. Same guy that loaned me the welder. Will also be borrowing a chop saw from him.

Was able to get the crusty trailer hitch off as well as the rear of the front and rear bumper brackets. Feels good to get rid of all this rusted out mess. Going to pressure wash everything at some point so I can see what’s rust and what’s dirt.

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So, this last week has been full of hard learned lessons.

Okay well only two.

Actually just one, repeated.

So back when I resealed my valve covers, I cut some corners with the driver side and didn’t move the AC compressor, PS Pump, PS reservoir, and all associated brackets, or wiring harness out of the way so that when I reinstalled the VC I would have a clear shot to set it right. This resulted in a poor seal and ultimately leaks.

I also anticipated that perhaps the VC is bent or warped, so to remove the guess work, I ordered a new one. I figured this would make the redo easier because then I wouldn’t have to clean off the old one and also didn’t have to be as careful with removal.

So I took the day off Friday, and all in one day, disassembled the engine, properly, removing the aforementioned accessories and brackets, removed the old VC and cleaned cylinder head, reinstalled new VC with new silicone and completely reassembled the engine. All in one 13-hour day.

I was actually kind of proud of myself.

But you know what they say about pride ...

Let the silicone set overnight and tightened the VC bolts the next morning. Bled the fuel lines, fired up the truck, let it idle for 10 minutes.

Guess what ...

It leaks even worse than before. Like not even holding oil.

Come to find out, the new VC, while made for this engine, had a slightly bigger footprint than the old VC. And when I applied the silicone, I applied it wrongly along the edge of the VC. This resulted in almost NO seal whatsoever since the silicone was barely making contact with the cylinder head. Additionally, the bigger footprint meant the lip on the intake side overlapped with the intake, causing the intake to not mount properly.

So 13 hours of work wasted. I thought about posting about it, but decided to spare y’all the frustration posts and subject you only to the victory posts.

So I promptly began re-disassembly Saturday morning. Got the new VC off without warping it, cleaned it up, and clearanced the intake side of the VC where it was making contact with the intake manifold.

I spent a long time studying the VC and the cylinder head, trying to figure out how I was going to apply silicone to the VC in a way that would guarantee a complete seal.

Then I had an a-ha moment.

I realized that by removing all of the accessories, I now had an amazing amount of access to the cylinder head. Enough to be able to apply a bead of silicone directly to the cylinder head instead of the VC. So that’s what I did. By doing it this way, I was able to remove the guess work and ensure a complete seal.

So with the silicone applied to the cylinder head, I let it skim over and reinstalled the VC, finger tightened the bolts, and this time let it sit and cure Saturday night, all day Sunday, and Sunday night. Monday morning I snugged up the VC bolts, and Monday afternoon I reassembled the engine bay, bled the fuel lines again, and fired it back up.

I let it idle for 15 minutes then drove it around the neighbor hood for about 5 minutes. So far, NO leaks. More driving testing will need to be done, but I feel pretty confident that I finally have this VC sealed properly.

No pictures of the process. Figured y’all had seen enough of that. But I did get @campfire ’s ac bracket painted up and installed. Will post that up later, since it’s so purdy now.

So what was the lesson that I learned? It NEVER pays to cut corners. Ever. It takes less time to do it the right way the first time.

I told y’all I learn lessons the hard way. Lol. :whistle:

So, With all that hopefully behind me, I was able to move on to trimming my rear quarters which I have been wanting to do for a while. Really like the way it turned out. The bottoms were rusted out anyways and I figure I’ll have that high-clearance look now lol.

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Andy
 
Well so far so good with the valve cover seal. Seems to be holding up just fine.

There are other things leaking though. Pretty sure I’m going to have a rear main seal to replace at some point this year.

Pretty sure the #3 injector is leaking fuel. Could have come loose in all of the wrenching I did with the VC, or could be those return lines. I’ll start by replacing the return lines and making sure the injector is tight and will go from there.

Question: is it normal for the oil pressure to be high when the engine is cold? Normal warm idling pressure is 40psi but when it’s cold, idling pressure is 60psi and if I drive it while it’s cold the pressure will shoot up to 70psi+ when on the throttle. If I let it idle for 5-10 minutes before driving, idling pressure will return to 40psi and then pressure under throttle may get up to 45-55psi. I *think* all of this is normal, just want to be sure.
 

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