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The RedBurb

Every Part Is Replaceable
So is a fuse not needed or is the first diagram just lacking?

Your solenoid wiring used to be protected by your ignition fuse. With this mod, it is no longer protected, and that's why it gets its own fuse.

Is it needed? Not until the solenoid or relay shorts and tries to catch your wiring on fire. Until then you'll be just fine. :rolleyes:
 
On a different note, we’ll be heading down to Disney again in a couple weeks, and plan on taking a little detour along the way to check out this place. 4x4 not required, but still cool to explore. Will make sure to post up pictures and videos.

https://floridatraveler.com/florida-ghost-highway/

Looks like a neat destination. I got a kick out of the potato farming community named "spuds." :haha:

Post pictures. Preferably lots.
 
Your solenoid wiring used to be protected by your ignition fuse. With this mod, it is no longer protected, and that's why it gets its own fuse.

Is it needed? Not until the solenoid or relay shorts and tries to catch your wiring on fire. Until then you'll be just fine. :rolleyes:

See, learning curve. I didn’t specifically know there was an ignition fuse. Although it makes perfect sense. I had ordered a fuse holder along with the relay anyways.

Looks like a neat destination. I got a kick out of the potato farming community named "spuds." :haha:

Post pictures. Preferably lots.

I plan on it. Oddly enough, this is part of the trip that I am anticipating the most.
 
Going to be doing a little work on the fuel can carrier. Truck looks a little neked without it.

D110F6D6-3D5E-41E0-8CA5-E2471477BC5D.jpeg
 
And as a general rule, everything should be fused. Everything. The fuse isn't there to protect the components, it's there to protect the wiring. Because overloaded wiring gets hot, and heat causes fires, and fires cause bad days.

Case in point:

Burned Jag 003.jpg

Burned Jag 001.jpg
 
Any and all electrical circuits need fuses, no matter what.

Absolutely. The wiring diagrams I posted earlier just confused me because one showed a fuse and the other didn’t. Fuse holder and relay have arrived. Now just waiting on Time to be delivered then I can get this little project done.
 
A little side project this weekend. My first legit welding project. Learned a few things. Things y’all will probably say “duh” to, things that I already knew aka was already told, but guess I had to relearn the hard way. Things like:

1. The welder is more efficient when it’s plugged directly into the outlet, and the extension cord is deleted. I only have one outlet in my shop so my power source is limited. However, this kind of work required retooling a bit so I could set the welder right in front of the outlet.

2. Metal HAS to be clean. Like super clean. Like cleaner than a wire wheel can do. This was one of my first welds, and it turned out terrible because of the two aforementioned mistakes:

887B7D74-FA51-4CD7-AF40-3689A3890DD3.jpeg

Ground that off and went back over it.

Once I started cleaning the metal appropriately, my welds turned out more like this:

E613B245-7918-452D-BE9A-2E8D830AB5EF.jpeg
26D5CD9B-8BF0-48F2-8268-F9DB14D5DACE.jpeg

@AgDieseler is my inspiration and I’m hoping to be half as good as he is when I grow up.

Anyhow, y’all may or may not remember from my initial launch of this build, that I bought this K5 swing out tire carrier to mount my spare, and after installation immediately realized the tire was too big for the carrier and abandoned that plan. Kept the carrier on the truck though. Bought a new fuel can to put on it since it had provisions for one, only to realize it only worked with the vintage cans. Not to be undone, I bought a ‘69 USMC can, repainted it and installed. Still wanting to carry the other new can, though, I bought a basket-style carrier for it and bolted it to the driver barn door. Realized that was too much weight for the sheet metal and took it off and stored the can and basket.

Well, I still wanted to be able to carry both cans, since I had them, still wanted to use the basket since I had it, and wanted to make better use of the K5 swing out carrier than to carry just one can. I had avoided for a while this notion of altering this carrier, since they are kind of rare. But, in @campfire ’s spirit of “build it the way you want it”, I decided it was time to make better use of the carrier.

Bought another basket, picked up some quarter inch flat bar and got to work. I will say that I saved the original brackets in case they ever needed to be used again.

Here’s a brief play by play and then the final product:

8E23313C-81FD-49E5-AB4A-A7F036C843C6.jpeg
DEA21824-B9F3-4218-82C1-C8C3B434B5A5.jpeg
30D596D7-A6F7-456A-9460-A5AF82494BB3.jpeg
FAE2BDC7-A10F-463B-9756-3BE2713CAF6A.jpeg
FC2DCB4B-EF4E-463C-A7AB-F00E2E2939EB.jpeg

And the final product:

85A4DD17-9251-4BD6-AFCB-AA828CADC310.jpeg DFD5928B-EB5E-4111-8C9E-701698E7C6FE.jpeg 2F3EC361-D43D-406E-9EAA-CEC7BAC53E4E.jpeg 7C0A6986-D1BA-4FB3-98AD-DF62F8E6616D.jpeg D9F22F15-379D-41CD-9745-D1F83E3ED9AC.jpeg

So the framing for the baskets were welded to the carrier and the baskets were bolted to the new framing. Every crosspoint where metal touched metal was welded on all sides.

There were some adjustments made in the process:

- The cans sit higher than before so that the framing could stay between the carrier tubing.
- I also moved them over two inches toward driver so that the passenger brake light wouldn’t be as blocked.

Here’s the before and after:

ACBB0A11-9C27-4AD6-96BD-A7856804F976.jpeg
DFD5928B-EB5E-4111-8C9E-701698E7C6FE.jpeg

Some tweaks had to be made, but overall I’m satisfied with the final product. Got a few other small things I’ll be adding to it in the next couple weeks. More to come.

With all the different lines and angles, it’s hard to look at it and believe it’s sitting level, but it’s pretty close. The different shades of red don’t help either. These cans will eventually be repainted yellow. They do carry diesel fuel afterall.

Overall, it was a pretty decent first welding project.

Andy
 
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Really neat idea. I’ve always appreciated slightly modified factory parts, especially when it comes out clean looking like your tire carrier.

You’re off to a great start on welding. I agree on both your points, especially getting the material clean. Flap discs do a great job there. If I were to add a handful more - make sure you are physically comfortable throughout the length of the weld, fitup quality is critical, make sure you have good ground, practice welder settings on some scrap before applying to the work, keep the torch tip clean, and be mindful of torch angle.

Practice, practice, practice. You’ll eventually find the groove where you can operate the torch mechanically and “read” what the puddle is doing.

There are some great guidelines buried deep in Greg’s MAW thread (I think it’s where he is preparing to brace the axle). As well, Jody Collier’s YouTube is a fantastic resource. I learned by mistake over some months and years well before the time of YouTube, and had great teachers along the way.

Keep burning up wire!

David
 
Really neat idea. I’ve always appreciated slightly modified factory parts, especially when it comes out clean looking like your tire carrier.

You’re off to a great start on welding. I agree on both your points, especially getting the material clean. Flap discs do a great job there. If I were to add a handful more - make sure you are physically comfortable throughout the length of the weld, fitup quality is critical, make sure you have good ground, practice welder settings on some scrap before applying to the work, keep the torch tip clean, and be mindful of torch angle.

Practice, practice, practice. You’ll eventually find the groove where you can operate the torch mechanically and “read” what the puddle is doing.

There are some great guidelines buried deep in Greg’s MAW thread (I think it’s where he is preparing to brace the axle). As well, Jody Collier’s YouTube is a fantastic resource. I learned by mistake over some months and years well before the time of YouTube, and had great teachers along the way.

Keep burning up wire!

David

I appreciate the advice! Yeah, I wish I had practiced more before starting, but didn’t have much scrap to work with. I have some now, so definitely will be putting in some hours. I’ll definitely be checking out those resources. Thanks for the tip.

Good teachers are invaluable. I have a few here locally that I lean on heavily. I credit them for any success I had in this project.
 
On a different note, had an interesting time experimenting with different thermostats.

In the meantime, my old 180* tstat vs my new 195* tstat. Does the 180* look stuck open to you?

View attachment 287004
View attachment 287003

For a couple years now I had a 180* in there, but it became obvious, and even more so upon removal, that it was stuck open. So I replaced it with an ACDELCO 195* thermostat. That one however (pictured in the post above), was not opening and closing at the correct times, and caused the engine to run too cool. So I picked up a STANT 195* and a STANT 190*. Installed the STANT 195* and test drove it around town. WAY too hot. With AC running, the truck would constantly stay at about 215-220*. So I swapped in the STANT 190* and it’s much happier. Ran the truck around town yesterday and this morning and the temps never got above 200* and happily stayed between 190-200*.

Just an interesting learning experience. Something tells me these 195* that I have are actually for a dual tstat 6.5. But that’s just suspicion. I have nothing to base that on.

I went with the STANT brand because they had pretty good reviews, and, I’m kind of partial to that name. :D

Stuck open 180* vs ACDELCO 195*
7C81F91B-62AB-4A8F-B416-78203B7709CF.jpeg

Stant 195*
87EC29E8-7619-4FCA-91EF-C068DFD65106.jpeg

Stant 190*
3964B3EF-C7FA-4474-8BD5-4D1E005A37FD.jpeg
 
Moving on, getting to work on this starter relay project and need to confirm a couple of things:

1: The wire from the solenoid to the ignition switch is purple, according to some diagrams and research I have done. Have not had a chance to look and confirm the wire color on my truck, but is this in fact the wire I’m looking for?

2: What amperage do I need for the fuse I’ll be installing? Some diagrams say 15amp, some say 30amp, the fuse panel has a 20amp fuse labeled “ignition”, so I’m thinking I need a 20amp fuse for this. Am I right?

Thanks in advance.
 
Moving on, getting to work on this starter relay project and need to confirm a couple of things:

1: The wire from the solenoid to the ignition switch is purple, according to some diagrams and research I have done. Have not had a chance to look and confirm the wire color on my truck, but is this in fact the wire I’m looking for?

2: What amperage do I need for the fuse I’ll be installing? Some diagrams say 15amp, some say 30amp, the fuse panel has a 20amp fuse labeled “ignition”, so I’m thinking I need a 20amp fuse for this. Am I right?

Thanks in advance.

Purple wire it is.
 
See the caps I pulled off didn’t even have clamps. But I might make a feeble attempt to put the clamps on.



This truck has been a canvas of work done in whatever way works best for me. A purist would probably have a heart attack if they looked it over. BluJay is a different story. It won’t be 100% purist, but it’ll be much more than Rusty.
These are return lines so the pressure is not too high on the lines connecting the injectors but will be higher on the caps.
 
Relay for the starter solenoid is in, with a 20amp in-line fuse. Truck starts. Will know tomorrow if it improves hot starts.
 

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