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The RedBurb

Every Part Is Replaceable
Question is, how do I adjuster the caster angle? I have been looking on the internet but not finding much information.
This is what they look like, they come in different degree of wedge. That would allow you to individually adjust one side. You can put degree shims Between your axle and leaf springs but that will increase or decrease your caster on the whole axle depending which way you flip them.
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This is what they look like, they come in different degree of wedge. That would allow you to individually adjust one side. You can put degree shims Between your axle and leaf springs but that will increase or decrease your caster on the whole axle depending which way you flip them.
View attachment 321171

Awesome, thank you. Do these install on the wheel mounting surface, or the spindle? (Sorry for the ignorance, this is totally new to me).

Are these the shims @stan1688 and @AgDieseler were referring to?
 
Awesome, thank you. Do these install on the wheel mounting surface, or the spindle? (Sorry for the ignorance, this is totally new to me).

Are these the shims @stan1688 and @AgDieseler were referring to?

Replying to my own message :D

I called Summit and they said it mounts to the WMS, much like a wheel spacer :saweet: :woot:

Will take them about a month to get them in, but sounds like a pretty decent option IMHO. Now to figure out how much I need ....
 
The ones I was referring to mount in between the knuckle and the spindle. In simplest terms, right now your spindle isn't level to the ground. The wedge would level it out, which would level out your hub/wheel/tire. If the wedge mounted on the WMS, the wheel/tire wouldn't roll straight, but cattywampus.
 
This is what they look like, they come in different degree of wedge. That would allow you to individually adjust one side. You can put degree shims Between your axle and leaf springs but that will increase or decrease your caster on the whole axle depending which way you flip them.
View attachment 321171

Pulling my algebra skills out of the closet ...

If I want my left caster to be .3-.5* less than the right, then I would need a 1 1/4 shim for the right and a 3/8 shim for the left:

Left: 4* + 0.375* = 4.375*
Right: 3.6* + 1.25* = 4.85*
Difference Left to Right: -0.475*

This would put me just under 0.5*. Sound about right?

And just to make sure I’m not getting my lefts and rights mixed up, the “Left” is the driver side and the “Right” is the passenger side, correct?
 
Also, the only ways that I'm aware of to change caster is to install wedges under the leaf springs (which can cause driveshaft issues since the type of caster you want pushed the pinion yoke down) or to cut and turn the inner Cs.
 
Most of us find that anywhere between 4-8 degrees of caster is acceptable. If anything I would try a few 2 degree shims between the axle and leaf springs. Don’t forget to buy two shims for the pumpkin side.
 
If I remember right you have hydroboost (I’m not real familiar with the bleeding process for that)
But normally you want the front end off the ground. Fill the resevoir. Without starting the engine you need to slowly turn lock to lock, adding fluid as you go, untill the level doesn’t drop anymore. Could take 25-50 turns... Then start it and let it idle. Check that the fluid didn’t drop. If it did, Shut it off and refill again. Keep doing that until the level stays full then slowly turn lock to lock checking fluid again with it running.


The pump definitely needs to be bled and is done just as stated by fastereddie.

As for your alignment sadly most shops are too stupid to get it right. Even on my Dodge I've had to go right back because the wheel wasn't straight. The wheel being straight is more then just the look of it, it also throws off the turn signal cam too. So I'd definitely would be bitching at them to correct it. The needing of shims isn't uncommon. When I had the D44 front mine had them under the spring, to basically shim the entire axle.

Well good news is that the steering wheel turns again!

The system definitely had air in it. The canister was full when I started and it only took a few cycles to empty it.

If a “set” includes 5 cycles with the engine off and about 30 seconds of the engine idling, then I put the steering system through about 5 sets. Then a final “set” of cycling with the engine idling.

Steering wheel turns very easily now. Easier than before I replaced the pump, it seems. Now let’s hope nothing leaks.

On to the next thing.
 
The pump definitely needs to be bled and is done just as stated by fastereddie.

As for your alignment sadly most shops are too stupid to get it right. Even on my Dodge I've had to go right back because the wheel wasn't straight. The wheel being straight is more then just the look of it, it also throws off the turn signal cam too. So I'd definitely would be bitching at them to correct it. The needing of shims isn't uncommon. When I had the D44 front mine had them under the spring, to basically shim the entire axle.


At this point, I think I’m going to just navigate this myself, and consider the visit to the shop as a $100 report to tell me what I need to fix.
 
Happy Thanksgiving everyone! Cannot put into words how thankful I am for all of you and the help you’ve provided me over this last year since I started this thread. You are a great bunch of people and I am super thankful to be a part of this group. Now let’s enjoy some turkey and our loved ones.
 
Hope everyone had a wonderful Thanksgiving!

Keeping the tradition going, used the truck to pick up our Christmas tree. It’s kind of wild to think about how much has changed with this truck just between last year and this year. Still haven’t taken it out in the dirt yet. Thinking about taking it out to the beach and playing in the sand. We will see.

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Continuing in work truck mode, picked up a bunch of lumber to build my boys a bunk bed for Christmas:
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As for how the truck is doing, got a couple *hopefully* minor leaks popped up that need fixing. The “manifolds” that are mounted to the frame next to the transmission, which house the transmission temp sensors, have developed a leak somewhere. I’m not surprised by this as these manifolds are mounted to the passenger side frame and may have experienced some shock from the wreck impact. I’ll be looking to do a similar set up as I did with the engine oil temp sensor at the cooler.

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Also, the rear axle lower pinion bolts appear to be weeping. I’ll try snugging them up.

Andy
 
Here’s yesterday’s project, but first, the backstory:

A friend of mine/co-worker learned of my woodworking hobbie a few years ago and so gave me a 3”x6”x6” block of wood. I can’t remember what kind of wood he said it was, but he had found it in a wood shop and really liked the grain in it, so bought it. When he gave it to me, he asked me “do something with it”. No direction other than to put my creativity to work and then to be returned to him once done.

Well, what do you do with a simple 3x6x6 block of wood? I was stumped. Then life happened. We adopted our children, things pulled my attention elsewhere. But I never forgot about the block of wood. Just didn’t know what to do with it. Well, while my life was happening, Nick’s life was happening also and his wife Kristeen was diagnosed with Stage 4 lung cancer. Her prognosis at the time was only a few months and she has survived 27 months thus far. Then last week happened. Nick and Kristeen were told by their doctors that she could no longer continue chemo treatment, because her body had become so weak that the chemo would kill her faster than the cancer would. They are meeting with hospice this week.

Nick told me this news on Friday, then Saturday the brain-block was finally cleared - I knew what to do with the block of wood, and got to work yesterday. Finished in one afternoon and evening and cleared coated it today.

I knew I wanted it to be special to Nick and Kristeen, that it needed to commemorate their marriage, and also wanted the final product to be a combination of my would-be woodworking and still-wet-behind-the-ears metal-working skills. The final result is shown in the photos below.

Their last name is Gonzalez, and 2-1-14 is their wedding date. I emphasized the “1” to reference Genesis 2:24, Mark 10:8, and other scripture passages that discuss marriage as “two” individuals becoming “one flesh” (I suspect that’s why they chose that date for their wedding). They are devout followers of Christ so I know this will hold an extra level of meaningfulness for them.

I’ll deliver sometime this week once I’ve confirmed with their schedule. This first photo shows the block before reconstruction with just the design drawn out:

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I had hoped that the end product would have looked more professional and less handmade, but now that it’s done, what I see when I look at it is the age-old lovebird-carved-initials-in-a-tree kind of shape, which I think presents even more meaningfulness.

Please keep them in your prayers over these coming weeks and months.

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Andy
 
So today on my way home from work, the steering wheel/shaft started binding. Nothing major, still able to push past it, but just enough to catch my attention. Have looked through all the linkage and cannot see anywhere that’s binding. Any ideas on what else I should be inspecting?
 
So today on my way home from work, the steering wheel/shaft started binding. Nothing major, still able to push past it, but just enough to catch my attention. Have looked through all the linkage and cannot see anywhere that’s binding. Any ideas on what else I should be inspecting?

Is this a tilt column? The legendary Saginaw steering column blues can include steering wheel binding...

Otherwise I'd start checking all the pivot points. Ball joints and TREs can bind. But aren't your moving parts all new? :thinking:
 
Is this a tilt column? The legendary Saginaw steering column blues can include steering wheel binding...

Otherwise I'd start checking all the pivot points. Ball joints and TREs can bind. But aren't your moving parts all new? :thinking:


Yep everything is new. But the column is not a tilt. It’s fixed
 
Yep everything is new. But the column is not a tilt. It’s fixed

I forgot to mention, the bushing at the lower end of the steering column (on the engine side of the firewall) is also a common trouble spot.

If you don't find something there, I'd disconnect the steering box end of the drag link, and see if you still have binding at the wheel. That will tell you which half of the system is causing the problem. Is the steering box new? Did you replace the steering shaft after the accident? It might be binding at the u-joint. It's a pretty crummy "u-joint," even on a good day.
 
Oh, is the binding at a fixed spot on the steering wheel? Or a fixed spot on the steering box? I.E., if you rotate the steering wheel 360 degrees, does it bind again at the same spot? If it's a random binding, it could be P/S cutting out.
 
Yeah like campy was saying start by disconnecting at the gear and see if it's up top or in the gear or after it. If everything is good in the column and shaft then disconnect at the pitman arm next and test the gear. Then just keep isolating down the line til you find it.
 
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