No habla sportsball
CK5
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Ben no habla fuel pump
I thought my 650hp system was awesome a few years ago. Now I’m just getting to the point of using it fully.
We are scrapping the manual swap for the time being. I just got off the phone with Tick Performance and with the power, weight and plans for this truck I would need to upgrade the gears which is a $10K upgrade putting the total cost of the swap over $17K. On top of this, the entire interior would need to be redone as I need to cut up the floor and modify the center console. For now, I think we're going to stick with an auto.
If/when we build a dedicated drag and drive car, we can revisit this.
We're currently looking at a level 5 Gearstar 4L85E but if you all have recommendations we're listening.
If/when we build a dedicated drag and drive car, we can revisit this.
We're currently looking at a level 5 Gearstar 4L85E but if you all have recommendations we're listening.
I vote for keep the 700r4 
Could flappy-paddle or manual valve body. Sorta half-way solution.
I like the flappy paddle idea for track days, but on the road and drag strip letting the ECU shift will be better.
One thing that I have been really unhappy with holley is the trans programming out of the box.
It’s garbage and has needed a lot of attention in my truck. Not sure if it’s the built trans or I’m just picky but the stock gm programming was way better.
It’s garbage and has needed a lot of attention in my truck. Not sure if it’s the built trans or I’m just picky but the stock gm programming was way better.
I am assuming I will need help programming the transmission, I've never done it before.
It’s not terrible to do, for me it was trial and error. Holley makes it simple with the up and down shift built into the gear graph.
I would recommend getting a pressure sensor and allowing the dominator to log the shifts.
I love getting all the sensors, the Dominator has a ton of inputs. I just ordered a Nitrous pressure sensor too since I think that plays into how rich the truck is running by the end of a run.
Same here, if it wasn’t so expensive I would have another display on the passenger side. Instead I just run the handheld on vitals near the passenger if they are bored.
The only thing that is very difficult to do with the Holley is a switch panel. I just wish I could plug a canbus switch panel in and program the buttons in the dominator, but there aren't any designed for the Holley other than their pro dash, and I want physical buttons that I can push while wearing gloves.
How about going into details and particulars on this?
Well, it would shift but the points were completely off. It acted like a 700r4 with the tv cable not adjusted properly.
The shift points were the first thing I dialed in, along with how firm the shift was with the pressure. Once I got those dialed in the converter was locking and unlocking more then I would like it to be. I had to adjust the rpm load with the tps to get it to function correctly.
When I put my 16ft aluminum boat on the back it locks and unlocks a lot now driving to payson which is where Brent has been testing his highway driving.
I don’t remember the terminology Holley uses off the top of my head, I would have to open the laptop.
This video right here helped me a lot to understand how it worked.
I also played around with bluecat transmission tuning software that generates the table.
Hopefully this help
We did some more work on the Shop Truck this weekend, we've been caught in the rain a couple times in the truck and the 53 year old wiper motor wasn't really cutting it. We ended up getting a New Port Engineering setup with intermittent funcionality.
While we had the cowl off, we cleaned the paint. I can't wait to see what the whole truck looks like once we're finished.
The new wheels showed up so I was able to get the Hoosiers mounted. I shouldn't have traction issues now, however I'm worried I'll run out of gear as the transmission won't shift into 4th when you're floored.
We still had some time left yesterday so we started working on the sway bar. It's a Rhode Island Race Cars setup that requires some assembly, the bar is 1.5" .188 wall chromoly tubing, hopefully it's not too much, but the truck does have a fat rear. It barely fits when the bags are dropped, squeezes in between the dust shield and the yoke.
We kept the bar as long as possible, the arms are just inside the frame rails above the axle.
I still need to weld the arms to the tube and weld up the end links, but it's mostly ready.
While we had the cowl off, we cleaned the paint. I can't wait to see what the whole truck looks like once we're finished.
The new wheels showed up so I was able to get the Hoosiers mounted. I shouldn't have traction issues now, however I'm worried I'll run out of gear as the transmission won't shift into 4th when you're floored.
We still had some time left yesterday so we started working on the sway bar. It's a Rhode Island Race Cars setup that requires some assembly, the bar is 1.5" .188 wall chromoly tubing, hopefully it's not too much, but the truck does have a fat rear. It barely fits when the bags are dropped, squeezes in between the dust shield and the yoke.
We kept the bar as long as possible, the arms are just inside the frame rails above the axle.
I still need to weld the arms to the tube and weld up the end links, but it's mostly ready.
What's your impression of the wiper motor kit so far?
Gonna have to wait till June when the monsoons come again .............maybe
As Wes mentioned, it hasn't rained yet, so no real test.
The unit is nice, wiper delay goes from ~18seconds to 2 seconds, no clicks so technically "infinitely" adjustable. It actually goes faster when you put it on high, unlike my oem one. The switch can run a windshield washer pump as well, I just need to find somewhere to mount one.
