CK5
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The Shop Truck

1971 Chevy C20 with a custom flat bed.
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I'm not going to go into details on the specs, but here's what I will say:
Dart Block
Smeding crank, rods, heads, and nitrous hydraulic roller cam
4" stroke, 4.125" bore for 427cu in displacement
JE forged pistons (9.9:1)
7400RPM
 
That's a fine looking powerplant. 9.9:1 says, "drive me anywhere!"

David
 
What's the HP spec on that? Looks awesome
It's one of their power adder builds. They think it should have about 650 NA, but that's just an estimate. It will be capable of far more power than I'll ever be able to use in the Shop Truck. The plan is to use a PWM to control the nitrous and spray whatever's necessary to go 11.5's for now and 10's once I get a cage.
 
It's been a few days, ran in to some issues, found fixes etc. so it's time for an update.
To start with, I made the shop truck pull it's own engine off the crate and put it on the stand. I love the crane and this is the first time I've used it where I can dump the bags so the truck is much more stable.
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Another beauty shot with the valley cover off.
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Harmonic balancer installed (minus the bolt) and steam port kit installed.
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We set the intake on and this was one of the issues we had to work out.
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The manifold for the steam ports was right where the Nitrous solenoid wanted to be so we couldn't bolt it in place..
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Initially I purchased some 1/4" stainless tubing to try to move the manifold out of the way, however the tubes were all single flare and my flaring tool can't do single flares, the hardware that came with the kit wouldn't work with a double flare so after much cussing and cutting up 2 of the 4 tubes we ordered the ICT billet steam port kit that uses hoses and got everything bolted into place.
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The black steam port hoses and the nitrous hoses now blend in and will help hide what's going on there better, although I'm not a fan of how the hoses are all twisted up with the ICT billet setup.
The last thing we installed is the ICT billet accessory bracket. The one I have on the truck now was modified when it was on the Blazer to lower the alternator bracket to clear the over engine brace that I had on it. That would have made the alternator hit the taller valve covers so we went with the ICT billet setup.
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My tranny is ready to ship, I'm just waiting on the dyno video so I can approve it and pay the remaining balance.
 
I also forgot to mention, I got the ARP harmonic balancer bolt and torqued it to the recommended 235 ft-lbs and the engine didn't turn... After some back and forth with Smedding, they said "you must have installed the balancer wrong..." Even though they couldn't explain how that would make the engine not turn, I went out to pull it back off. Fortunately the engine broke free before the balancer bolt did and now it turns with about 80-90ft-lbs of torque like it should. The rings must have been stuck in the bores, but my bore scope didn't show any rust or contamination.
 
you must have installed the balancer wrong
I would have ask, "how could I?"

We had a few BBC do that after hard dyno pulls. We started rotating the engines as they cooled. We assumed it was because the coolant was drained to soon after the pulls.
 
Apparently the ATI balancers usually need to be honed to fit the crank. It went on a little hard, but not crazy. They couldn't explain how that would have made the engine not turn over though.
 
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