CK5
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The Shop Truck

1971 Chevy C20 with a custom flat bed.
I almost always drill at least one hole. Helps with burping.
Not on the hiflow tstats though, not much room for that.
 
Unfortunately they only make the high flow in 160° or 187° variants. I was talking to someone from Wegner and he suggested drilling some holes as that is usually the fix. He said he's never heard of anyone having the impeller slip. Looks like I get to dump the coolant again :(.
 
It's probably a plastic impeller.
I don't think so, but who knows.
We drove the truck more today than we have since the supercharger went on, but there's still an issue with oil pressure :1zhelp:.
I drilled 4 3/16" holes in the thermostat, that may have been overkill. Everything seems to work fine now. Apparently this is a common issue and vette owners regularly drill holes in their thermostats to make it easier to bleed the coolant system and it makes the thermostat more responsive since it's on the cold side. It will be fine in AZ in the summer, but I may need to back off to 1 or 2 holes for winter. I also talked to Wegner some more and I have a 6% overdrive main pully and a stock size waterpump pully so it's being overdriven 6%. @shady may have been on to something with the air bubble comment, drilling holes in the thermostat helps get those out.

Now on to the bad part. We fixed some other minor issues, put the hood back on, fixed the EGT probes, and then we took it for a drive. Everything was going great for the first 8 miles, I did 3 or 4 2nd gear pulls for break in and everything seemed perfect. Then I did 3 pulls in a row, after the 3rd pull I noticed that oil pressure was down at about 35 and dropping, I popped it in neutral and shut it off just as the screen started flashing (20psi). We coasted for a couple miles and pulled over to the side, started the truck back up and had good oil pressure again. We drove around another 10 miles or so, with only one other minor issue (dropped to 30ish psi) and once again, shutting it off fixed the issue.
At this point, the only thing I haven't ruled out is the windage tray. I'm thinking that with the relatively small oil pan (5.5 qts) and the high pressure oil pump, the oil isn't making it back to the pan quick enough. This is similar, but different from the issues we've had before. Sikky makes a 7 qt pan that should work on my truck, but will force me to add a remote oil filter (and oil cooler). This should give me considerably more oil volume and make it easy to add an Accusump if I'm still having issues. Unfortunately this is yet another delay in getting it to the tuner.
 
Dam that oil pressure!
Not sure about the LS blocks, but Dart is adamant about not using a high pressure pump in the SBC block.
 
The bubble thing is why I fill from both sides.
Filling the reservoir on mine keeps all the coolant on one side of the T stat.
And then filling down through the upper hose makes sure it's filled on the other side of it too.

Filling from the reservoir side, even after a short run, it said it was full.
When I pulled the upper hose, I was able to put another gallon in it down through the pump.

Now I just do that before start up as a rule. :dunno:

Id think with your new cross member clearance, you could run about any pan you want.

For oil... I've been told you want at least 1 qt per 1000 rpm you plan to spin .
If you were using the same pan before, I can't see how it would be causing you issues this go round.

I personally like the convenience of a remote filter, and absolutely hate stock LS filter location in the pan. I like tightening the filter with my hand, and they make that nearly impossible.
 
At this point, the only thing that seems to make sense is the windage tray. That is the only difference internal to the engine that could make a difference. It seems like it's causing the opposite effect of what it's supposed to do. When it loses oil pressure, it doesn't go away completely, it just reduces like it's foamy. It doesn't respond to RPM changes like normal, it just hangs out at 30-35 until you shut it off, let all the bubbles settle out and restart then you're right back up to 55psi.
I've already got the pan I want to use picked out https://www.sikky.com/product/gm-a-body-lsx-swap-oil-pan/. I talked with Sikky support and they told me it's about 7qt capacity, plus the oil cooler and remote filter. Either that or I'll stick with this pan and run an Accusump and remote cooler.
Today, I think I'm going to drop the pan, check the bearings, and leave the windage tray out for a re-test.
 
You can also do an over/ under fill. Thoughts are possibly the pan is running dry and you're not getting oil back fast enough as it only happens after a pull. but If its windage then overfill will make problem worse. Underfill might change windage issue, but with a small pan it's a little dicier of a test.

If you were close, I have an accumulator on the shelf you could try. If you want one to test let me know.
 
You can also do an over/ under fill. Thoughts are possibly the pan is running dry and you're not getting oil back fast enough as it only happens after a pull. but If its windage then overfill will make problem worse. Underfill might change windage issue, but with a small pan it's a little dicier of a test.

If you were close, I have an accumulator on the shelf you could try. If you want one to test let me know.
The new oil pan has been ordered, it will get installed when it shows up. I'm in the process of dropping the pan right now to check the bearings and remove the tray. I'm not sure the accumulator would help at this point. If the oil pressure drops enough to need the extra oil, now there will be even more oil in the pan to get tossed around and aerated. I think the real answer is either a bigger pan (ordered) or dry sump. I'm not ready for the dry sump yet, but it has definitely crossed my mind.
 
I have only been partially reading the thread due to being busy, so forgive me for that, but is this a HV pump?
 
At this point, the only thing that seems to make sense is the windage tray. That is the only difference internal to the engine that could make a difference. It seems like it's causing the opposite effect of what it's supposed to do. When it loses oil pressure, it doesn't go away completely, it just reduces like it's foamy. It doesn't respond to RPM changes like normal, it just hangs out at 30-35 until you shut it off, let all the bubbles settle out and restart then you're right back up to 55psi.
I've already got the pan I want to use picked out https://www.sikky.com/product/gm-a-body-lsx-swap-oil-pan/. I talked with Sikky support and they told me it's about 7qt capacity, plus the oil cooler and remote filter. Either that or I'll stick with this pan and run an Accusump and remote cooler.
Today, I think I'm going to drop the pan, check the bearings, and leave the windage tray out for a re-test.
I was gonna suggest pulling the windage tray to test your theory.
 
Wear a hazmat suit changing the oil. I hear Amber has a love hate relationship with the oil.
It's not just getting on you, it gets on everything. It's hard to describe how much it just sticks to everything and makes it so you can't remove a socket from a ratchet handle, or turn a bolt by hand. I'll survive, but I'd really like to stop opening this engine up after every test run.

I'm taking with Smeding about the oiling issues, asking them if they've ever heard of anything like this. I was thinking that maybe that's why they didn't ship it with a tray. During the course of the conversation, he asked me if I replaced the cam bearings. According to him, you are NOT supposed to line up the holes on a Dart block, that's why the bearings have a groove on the back side. Apparently they sent out a memo to their engine builders a couple years ago about it. Maybe the guy that installed them at Outlaw new that and the guy I talked to didn't? Who knows.
 

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