Is it the power level you have? Too much for the ARB?A quick google search also says that this isn't going to work with an ARB. I'm not sure what I'm going to do.
Is it the power level you have? Too much for the ARB?A quick google search also says that this isn't going to work with an ARB. I'm not sure what I'm going to do.
Putting a spool in it would make it horrible on the road, that's not an option. I know I've put more load on a 14 bolt ARB than I did on the Truetrac that I have in this one with no issues. I already have onboard air and I can just have the ECU engage it when I push the race mode button.
The rear end started having issues in Michigan. It did the same thing where it spun the right wheel only on a launch at Ubly.
Shocks - QA1 double adjustable
Anti Roll Bar - 1-3/4" chromoly from Rhodes Race Cars.
The only preload is the crane in the rear left corner
I will put a drag axle under the next rig I build, this one is keeping 8 lug.
This isn't a 2wd drag vehicle, it's an incredibly heavy work truck with a crane in the back. I don't think comparing it to a light weight drag vehicle is fair. I have driven a heavy 4x4 with a welded diff/spool and with a detroit locker and I hated it. I think that's a better comparison personally. I may try a spool, they're cheap enough, but I think with all the weight in the back it's going to kill my tires and draw way too much attention from squealing tires around corners. It could be something I toss in for a drag and drive, but I'm not sure.I've driven my regal on the road with a spool for probably 15 years now. Maybe you've tried it and you didn't like it, but I find it to be not a big deal at all.
Have you driven a spool on the street before with a 2WD drag vehicle?
The 4 link doesn't have much adjustability. It's just something I designed and built and guessed at what would be a good roll center/anti-squat setting.The clickers on the QA1 shocks might as well not even be there, they don't have enough actual damping control or real user range. I use and recommend Afco double adjustable for the money. Yeah there are much more expensive options but Afco gets the job done for a decent price and it will actually make a real difference when you adjust it.
Well you have a 4 link and an anti roll bar, some good shocks and you could really get it dialed to hook.
I'm running 28x10.5R17 Bracket drag radials.You running radials or bias slicks?
I did a 1.42 60' at Northern Michigan when every other car was blowing the tires off. I was one of the few that did a 1 and done there and it was my best ET and speed of the week. I just need to figure out why it won't do that now and everything is pointing to the rear diff.Obviously get the axle fixed first but if you can't get it to hook the QA1 shocks are the only bottleneck in your setup.
Sorry, I missed this question. It's the shock load from the trans brake. The entire drivetrain goes loose when your on the brake then slams into gear when you let go of the button.Is it the power level you have? Too much for the ARB?
This isn't a 2wd drag vehicle, it's an incredibly heavy work truck with a crane in the back. I don't think comparing it to a light weight drag vehicle is fair. I have driven a heavy 4x4 with a welded diff/spool and with a detroit locker and I hated it. I think that's a better comparison personally. I may try a spool, they're cheap enough, but I think with all the weight in the back it's going to kill my tires and draw way too much attention from squealing tires around corners. It could be something I toss in for a drag and drive, but I'm not sure.
But I do think your shop truck is closer to a car than a lifted 4x4 regarding handling on the road with a spool. My only point is I don't think the spool will be as bad as you think it will be. I don't get any squealing tires, I think that depends a lot on the actual tire. And the antiroll bar keeps it flat, it can't twist up around corners like a 4x4 does, so handling is a non issue really. The only time you really notice negative consequences it is in parking lots, slow speed, it doesn't want to turn as sharp. And obviously be careful around curves on slippery roads. The 4 link doesn't have much adjustability. It's just something I designed and built and guessed at what would be a good roll center/anti-squat setting.
I'm running 28x10.5R17 Bracket drag radials.
I did a 1.42 60' at Northern Michigan when every other car was blowing the tires off. I was one of the few that did a 1 and done there and it was my best ET and speed of the week. I just need to figure out why it won't do that now and everything is pointing to the rear diff.
Another good run and I didn't chicken foot it this time!
[email protected], new PB!
Also [email protected] to the 1/8th, that's a PB ET, but not MPH.
The 60' was .13 seconds off the PB of the truck, so if I could get it to go that would have been a 10.4 for sure!
I'm going to leave it at that so I can at least drive it back onto the trailer tonight.
By the way I always wanted to say something but never did until now.This isn't a 2wd drag vehicle, it's an incredibly heavy work truck with a crane in the back. I don't think comparing it to a light weight drag vehicle is fair. I have driven a heavy 4x4 with a welded diff/spool and with a detroit locker and I hated it. I think that's a better comparison personally. I may try a spool, they're cheap enough, but I think with all the weight in the back it's going to kill my tires and draw way too much attention from squealing tires around corners. It could be something I toss in for a drag and drive, but I'm not sure.
The 4 link doesn't have much adjustability. It's just something I designed and built and guessed at what would be a good roll center/anti-squat setting.
I'm running 28x10.5R17 Bracket drag radials.
I did a 1.42 60' at Northern Michigan when every other car was blowing the tires off. I was one of the few that did a 1 and done there and it was my best ET and speed of the week. I just need to figure out why it won't do that now and everything is pointing to the rear diff.