The Shop Truck

[shady]

I enjoy watching this thread for 2 reasons.

One, because it's awesome

Two, which I'm somewhat ashamed of, is your finding all the weak points I'm going to find eventually. Some I've already had similar happen lol.

Trying to make hippos into race trucks is an interesting road

 

[shady]

I've been going to buy one of these.

Amazon.com: CGOLDENWALL Digital Crane Scale 4400lb Industrial Hanging Scale Handheld Hoist Scale kg lb Switchable 2000kg Wild Game Scale for Farms, Hunting and Livestock : Office Products https://share.google/IsJhx3xIhtDhbMbAj

Then just use my gantry to lift and end.
Plus it'd be useful for other stuff around here.

 

[folkenheath]

I knew about preloading the sway bar, but what does preloading the upper link do? I can also move the crane as @imiceman44 suggested.

A similar thing, if you shorten one of the upper links with a little preload, it can set it up so that it pulls one side harder on the launch to help it go straight. This only works with custom parallel 4 links for drag racing (parallel when viewed from the top, not the side).

Single, there's a lot that isn't optimal about this truck and most of that is because I want to keep it 8 lug. That severely limits my choices, in fact I've found exactly 1 wheel that will work for me on the street and 1 that works for beadlocks. If you can find me someone that can make me a custom 8 lug double beadlock with the width and positive offset I need that will also fit over the big silverado brakes, let me know.

Your rear axle does limit you quite a bit. There are a few companies that do beadlock conversins, perhaps you can have your wheel converted to a double beadlock. It might save your tires.

Single Beadlocks (17" and UP)

Pricing is PER Wheel, with single beadlocks. If you are interested in double beadlocks please contact us and we can discuss your project and options. If we have to do a custom 3PC beadlock, there's an additional $500 charge. This is typically the case to do the outside of a "Donk" wheel, but is...

www.macfabperformance.com

Beadlock Conversion Service

Beadlock Conversion Service by RC Components

www.shoprccomponents.com

So you're only looking at top speed for these numbers? If that's the case then yes I can do that, but if we're talking ET I'm not consistent enough to compare those yet.

Ideally you would look at both, but you can get very very close by tuning the engine for MPH and then tuning the chassis for 60 ft and ET. It would certainly get you closer to the right tune, it already did, but there could be more.

I agree. I'm not trying to make the truck as fast as it can possibly be, I'm trying to make it as fast as I can with the parts I have on it currently. I think the real answer is to keep the setup I have, but slow down the launch until it goes down reliably. If I ever do a drag and drive event that has actual competition, I'd probably shoot for the 10.5 index or a DYO in the low 10s.

Slowing down the launch is only one answer, you can also tune the suspension and tires so it will hook. First time I sprayed the nitrous it blew the tires off. Happened several times but as I got the shocks dialed closer it hooked, slowly picked the front wheels 6" and held them there to around the 60 ft mark. Then it set down so gentle you could barely feel it. Whereas if I would of just cranked the shocks I might of stood it on the rear bumper and broke stuff.

Unfortunately I had a gout flare up as soon as we got home (too much partying, not enough water), so I'm not sure I'll be able to get the truck ready for Friday, but I'm not giving up hope yet. If it clears up quickly I could get the diff inspected and back together, preload the sway bar, and move the crane. I'll also probably bump the tire pressure up to the max (30psi).

bummer, get well soon.

 

[r3dd0g]

A similar thing, if you shorten one of the upper links with a little preload, it can set it up so that it pulls one side harder on the launch to help it go straight. This only works with custom parallel 4 links for drag racing (parallel when viewed from the top, not the side).

My 4 link is a parallel 4 link with a watt's link to keep it centered. Which link would I shorten/lengthen to get the desired effect and how much?

Your rear axle does limit you quite a bit. There are a few companies that do beadlock conversins, perhaps you can have your wheel converted to a double beadlock. It might save your tires.

Single Beadlocks (17" and UP)

Pricing is PER Wheel, with single beadlocks. If you are interested in double beadlocks please contact us and we can discuss your project and options. If we have to do a custom 3PC beadlock, there's an additional $500 charge. This is typically the case to do the outside of a "Donk" wheel, but is...

www.macfabperformance.com

Beadlock Conversion Service

Beadlock Conversion Service by RC Components

www.shoprccomponents.com

That's an excellent option, I wonder if they do other peoples wheels. Also, the wheel I'm running is the Battle Born Sierra Forged Beadlock Race Spec. They are designed to be able to run a small tire inside the main offroad tire that acts as both a run flat and an inner beadlock. I didn't get the wheels drilled and tapped for the second shraeder valve, but I could do that myself. I have heard that they are a pain in the butt to get mounted though.
Adding the second beadlock would make the wheel effectively wider, which would be good since I'm running a 10.5 on an 8.5" wide wheel.

Ideally you would look at both, but you can get very very close by tuning the engine for MPH and then tuning the chassis for 60 ft and ET. It would certainly get you closer to the right tune, it already did, but there could be more.

Slowing down the launch is only one answer, you can also tune the suspension and tires so it will hook. First time I sprayed the nitrous it blew the tires off. Happened several times but as I got the shocks dialed closer it hooked, slowly picked the front wheels 6" and held them there to around the 60 ft mark. Then it set down so gentle you could barely feel it. Whereas if I would of just cranked the shocks I might of stood it on the rear bumper and broke stuff.

Exactly, it will be a combination of things that I do to make it reliably launch in a variety of traction conditions. One of the Firebird staff has pretty much talked me into competing in their shutdown showdown no prep/no time events. That's definitely something I was wanting to try out.

bummer, get well soon.

Thanks

 

[folkenheath]

My 4 link is a parallel 4 link with a watt's link to keep it centered. Which link would I shorten/lengthen to get the desired effect and how much?

You would shorten or lengthen the upper right arm. But I don't think I would add any preload to that yet. That tuning mostly helps the vehicle go straight while fighting body roll, I think this is also because of roll steer. And usually they put preload in that bar when they don't have an antiroll bar, but you can use both.

That's an excellent option, I wonder if they do other peoples wheels. Also, the wheel I'm running is the Battle Born Sierra Forged Beadlock Race Spec. They are designed to be able to run a small tire inside the main offroad tire that acts as both a run flat and an inner beadlock. I didn't get the wheels drilled and tapped for the second shraeder valve, but I could do that myself. I have heard that they are a pain in the butt to get mounted though.
Adding the second beadlock would make the wheel effectively wider, which would be good since I'm running a 10.5 on an 8.5" wide wheel.

Yes, MacFab specializes in beadlock conversions of other wheels, and RC Comp does them, but they also make wheels. Your limit might be the wheel width. RC comp was the only company I found that would build me a 15x9 double beadlock wheel. All the other companies wanted at least a 15x10 to do double beadlock, which I have stock wheel wells and I couldn't fit as it widens the cross section of the same tire. Most people want a wider wheel because a wider wheel on the same tire gives you a bigger contact patch and more traction.

Exactly, it will be a combination of things that I do to make it reliably launch in a variety of traction conditions. One of the Firebird staff has pretty much talked me into competing in their shutdown showdown no prep/no time events. That's definitely something I was wanting to try out.

Careful with the no prep stuff, I won't go down a non prepped track for safety reasons, especially with drag radials, radials need a prepped track.

 

[r3dd0g]

After doing a bit of research, tire liners are common with drag racing too. I may talk to Battle Born and figure out which liners I need for my wheels. That would be the easiest option (other than mounting/dismounting).

 

[r3dd0g]

Apparently it needs BFG liners that are only available to their factory teams. So much for that idea.

 

[folkenheath]

You could just put a mark on the inside bead and see if it turns, but it's possible it already twisted and won't twist any more, so I feel it would only be reliable on a new tire.

Another thing I did until I could buy the beadlocks I wanted is glue the tire to the rim, but it didn't last the life of the tire.

 

[r3dd0g]

You could just put a mark on the inside bead and see if it turns, but it's possible it already twisted and won't twist any more, so I feel it would only be reliable on a new tire.

I could also pull the beadlock ring and see if the tire twists when I relieve the pressure on the outer bead.

Another thing I did until I could buy the beadlocks I wanted is glue the tire to the rim, but it didn't last the life of the tire.

The wheels do have a very tight bead, I think it took 35psi to get them to seat. I do have bead glue, but I didn't use it...

 

[r3dd0g]

Well, you're going to get your wish Heath.

Unfortunately I'm having trouble locating a spool I can get in time to go racing Friday.

 

[r3dd0g]

I ordered one from Poly Performance in Cali, it should get here by Friday...

 

[Babaganoosh]

Yikes, you called it.

 

[shady]

Well. There goes my plan for a truetrac

Thanks for finding the weakness

All BS aside. That pretty much sucks.

Little bit of a right turn and I can do a decent single wheel peel with my G80 now a days too.
I was planning on a truetrac.

I figured you'd have more places around that area with spools, being that close to sand and all.

Brake clean the entire truetrac and fill it with JB weld.
Probably get a couple passes out of it
Lol.

 

[folkenheath]

It'll be interesting how it works for you in your truck. Parking will be a little annoying, but hopefully everything else is fine for you. Although you have power steering so maybe parking won't be an issue.

 

[r3dd0g]

Well. There goes my plan for a truetrac

I think it would work fine for your rig. I think the launch slips really did some damage with one wheel doing Mach 3 while the other one was standing still.
The gears look fine, it's just the "bearing" surface between the two middle gears. It was just steel on steel so it's galled to hell. I may be able to save it if I can get replacement gears.

Thanks for finding the weakness

It's my specialty, ask @Stephen

All BS aside. That pretty much sucks.

Little bit of a right turn and I can do a decent single wheel peel with my G80 now a days too.
I was planning on a truetrac.

The gov bomb has to spin a wheel before it locks, that's why they're prone to explode. I think you would be fine with a trutrack. I'll probably end up swapping between the two.

I figured you'd have more places around that area with spools, being that close to sand and all.

I thought so too, but we're not really that close to sand, gotta go to Cali for dunes.

Brake clean the entire truetrac and fill it with JB weld.
Probably get a couple passes out of it

If I had an open carrier I'd make the "orb of traction" again. I did it on my old blazer.

It'll be interesting how it works for you in your truck. Parking will be a little annoying, but hopefully everything else is fine for you. Although you have power steering so maybe parking won't be an issue.

I think I'm going to hate it, especially when I have 1000+ lbs in the bed.

 

[shady]

I don't have 1000 HP... Yet.
But I have almost 1000# on you lol.
I went around a good tight right a while back, and it one wheel peeled for way too long. Then I let off, out of bomb fear.
Never did grab.
As much as I do that, and as heavy as it is, I'm afraid a trutrac would easily be able to peel one off.
I like to try and slider er sideways.
Most of mine isn't drag launch.

The extra power you have definitely makes a huge difference.
I'm possibly buying a house in the next month or two, so me supercharging may be a pipe dream now.
I'll have to live vicariously through you some more

 

[r3dd0g]

Just a quick Google search shows that you'll only be able to push 6-8 lbs. I'm at 10 with the big pulley, I don't think you'll be able to get anywhere near 1000rwhp. Probably closer to 700-800. I was at 800 at 10psi with the big pulley and 91 octane.

 

[r3dd0g]

Also, I think I hurt it in Michigan, so it was slipping more than when it was new. It always did great burnouts with both wheels until I put the party pulley on.

 

[shady]

Just a quick Google search shows that you'll only be able to push 6-8 lbs. I'm at 10 with the big pulley, I don't think you'll be able to get anywhere near 1000rwhp. Probably closer to 700-800. I was at 800 at 10psi with the big pulley and 91 octane.

I've already watch a steave morris video where he took my engine and put 10psi on it getting 950+HP.
Can't see what 1000 wouldn't be possible?
Not that I'd pull hairs and care at 950 lol.

 

[Babaganoosh]

I’m going truetrac in mine I think it will work well.