I bet it will do wicked donuts now!!!
CK5
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It already did, didn't you see the video from Duct Tape Drags last year?
Musta missed that one!
Truck is in pieces in the garage or else I would. Maybe this is the motivation I need
I finally got around to editing the videos.
Please like/subscribe/comment if you enjoy these so I can get get more exposure!
I'll be back at Firebird on the 6th, looking to smash that 10.50. I still haven't turned on the lockup down track and I'm still only on a 100 shot.
I'll be back at Firebird on the 6th, looking to smash that 10.50. I still haven't turned on the lockup down track and I'm still only on a 100 shot.
Nice runs! That looked like fun.
At the 1:25 and 2:15 marks in the 1st video it hooked so good it picked the front wheel and then spun immediately after the front end came back down too fast. When the weight transfers back to the front that's when it lost traction.
You need more compression so it doesn't come down too fast, and likely more rebound so it doesn't go up too fast either, but too much rebound and it may spin immediately. Though you can slow the front down with rebound while using less rebound in the back to hit the tires harder if your IC is good for the radials.
Keep on truckin, looking awesome!
It was picking up the wheels every day in Michigan and it only spun once (right tire only when I tried to do a 3200RPM launch). I think this is still down to poor track prep (windy and dusty) with a damaged diff. We'll find out on the 6th. When I watch the video on my big 4K screen you can see that the front end comes down because the right tire loses traction, not visa versa. It starts to spin with the front left wheel in the air every time.
If it spins first you would be correct, though it's rare to spin while all the weight is on the rear wheels. By the sound of it, it spins immediately after it comes back down.
IMO you are coming up and going down to fast for the power level you are at, but I agree, if the spool fixes it, it doesn't matter as much, we'll see.
When is your next race?
IMO you are coming up and going down to fast for the power level you are at, but I agree, if the spool fixes it, it doesn't matter as much, we'll see.
When is your next race?
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There's a test and tune on Friday the 6th.
I was doing 1.42 and 1.43 60' times in Michigan at every track. The 10.50 was a 1.55, so something is wrong. I was leaving way softer than I was in Michigan with the same suspension settings and it wouldn't go until I pulled timing. I know it's weird that it spun with the wheels up, that's the part that was confusing me so much. Generally you tighten up rebound on the front to prevent a wheelie, not to keep the rear from spinning.
I was doing 1.42 and 1.43 60' times in Michigan at every track. The 10.50 was a 1.55, so something is wrong. I was leaving way softer than I was in Michigan with the same suspension settings and it wouldn't go until I pulled timing. I know it's weird that it spun with the wheels up, that's the part that was confusing me so much. Generally you tighten up rebound on the front to prevent a wheelie, not to keep the rear from spinning.
Good luck, have fun! I look forward to the results.
The truck is running awesome, you are doing great with that thing, its still crazy how fast it is when it is so heavy. I have to say I have never put 1000 lbs in the back of my Regal.
I watched it on my 32" computer monitor from the youtube site, I still think it's spinning after it comes back down. You are correct the front rebound can prevent a wheelie, but it does more than that. It also can slow the rate and height of the frontend rise. What goes up will come back down, and generally if it goes it up slower, it will come back down slower and not upset the chassis. The front compression can keep it from bouncing like that and will also be less likely to upset the chassis.
On the front more rebound will slow the rise, give a smaller wheelie like you are aware, and less traction on the initial hit. But once the initial hit is over, too little rebound will allow it to rise too fast and then it upsets the chassis on the way down. It's a balance, you need more rebound with more power to the ground. You want to let it rise enough to hook but not so fast it upsets on the touchdown. When it touches down it bounces some, that needs more compression to stop that little bounce but is also easier to control if it doesn't rise too fast. It's the fine tuning vs the drastic changes.
If the spool fixes it that's great, but you can still make it more consistent and more reliable if it doesn't bounce and stays hooked more often. Low power cars with inexpensive 90/10 shocks can pop and drop wheelie on a 13 second pass, you are not that, you need control for all that power, you need to turn your shocks up some. If you do get too much then it will spin immediately, it won't hook and then spin right after that. But if you have enough AS for those radials, you can loosen the compression on the rear to get more hit on the tire for that initial traction, but too little and the rear will raise too fast down the track. But that also heavily depends on your rear 4 link setup.
Take this information and do what you like, you are doing awesome with that rig, it's impressive. I knew it was heavy but its heavier than I thought. How thick is the steel on that flat bed?
If it's not the tires, I should be able to improve on that 1.42 60' since the clutches were slipping. My 330 was only .05 slower than my best one in Michigan and my 1/8 mile was .02 quicker even though the 60' was .13 slower.
Thanks for the kind words. It's a heavy truck that does heavy truck things as well as going fast down the track. I built it so it would be good at a lot of things, the front suspension is all QA1 with a big upgraded sway bar so the thing stays flat in the corners. When I took it to powertour west and had it on the autocross/road course it was a blast, and that was before I put the rear swaybar on (you can tell in these pictures). With that massive rear sway bar now it should stay nice and flat.The truck is running awesome, you are doing great with that thing, its still crazy how fast it is when it is so heavy. I have to say I have never put 1000 lbs in the back of my Regal.
I think the youtube compression loses some of the detail. We watched a few of them from the raw video and went frame by frame and it's clear that the front drops because the tire spins.
Watch this run, it was the only run where I lifted both front tires, day 1 Michigan Miles. The front lifts up and sets down nice and soft, no bounce, no spin. This is a 1.436 60'.
I don't have enough AS to get the rear to raise, if I adjusted the bags to raise the rear more I could probably get it to work, but then I'd only have 3-4" of rise before it maxed out. I really need to move the front mounts for the links up an inch or so. That's why I'm adding compression so it doesn't hit the bumps and lose traction.
The bed is 1/8" diamond plate, the frame is what's heavy, it's all 2x3 1/4" C channel and there is a lot of it. All of the square tubing is 2x2 10ga.
I'm already working on prepping the truck for next Friday, I feel like I'll be 100% ready for a change. I need to add a jumper wire so I can trigger the TCC lockup, I've already added the programming for that. I also still need to re-do my ECU power wires, I'll be getting that done this week. My first run will be 500RPM more on the launch, 15° timing pulled but comes back in 1 second instead of 1.5 seconds, lockup at 120mph. I'm going to look at the fuel and timing a bit more and may make some changes there, but I may just go for a baseline before I start playing with that. I think with those changes it should run a 10.4 or 10.3, then I can slowly start adding more on the launch and play with timing and fuel down the track.
There's a Street Car Takeover event at Firebird Nov 13-14 that we're thinking about going to. I could buy into the 10.50 index class (instant green bracket) and maybe do some rounds, if not I'd be able to do test and tune both days and it comes with a camping pass. We were watching the 1320 coverage on the Nashville one and it looked like a fun event. My only issue is that it says "your vehicle must appear factory"... It's not like the mods that are done to the truck make it faster, but we'd have to see if they'd let us race. It's cheaper to buy into that class than to buy into test and tune and pay for camping.
I also forgot that I plan on moving the crane to the passenger side as well before next weekend.
