CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

The "under destruction builds" supersize75k5 's driveway of despair and repair

I need to Run Bump ons mine . Not worth killing air shocks/coilovers..;)

i need to put a "W"in front when I spell the world "hole":doah: oh and the bump stops, the neat part is bump stops don't matter much when your tranny is dead:D:doah:

I got an idea on this whole "<------notice correct grammar" dead trans thing. Rather than spend 3-5k on a super nice trans Im going to just get a divorced atlas 2 speed and take the load off it. Even with 5.38's in the differentials and lockers I am loading up the trans and im sure I'm creating alot of heat that is leading to the failure.

My original plan was to put a 3 to 1 kit in the 205 but they dont make it for the ford case:doah: So ill get the Atlas t-case with 4 to 1 or 5 to 1 gears, then rebuild the 4l80 myself to save some cash, toss in a good sunco converter and what ever upgrades I can for the clutches, bands and sprags. Add a real nice cooler with a fan on it, a switch for lock up and a temp gauge with a warning light and I should be good.


Any thoughts on a shift kit or manual valve body????:confused: Im unsure if I want to do the manual valve body but it might take some failure points "solenoids" out of the equation.
 
i need to put a "W"in front when I spell the world "hole":doah: oh and the bump stops, the neat part is bump stops don't matter much when your tranny is dead:D:doah:

I got an idea on this whole "<------notice correct grammar" dead trans thing. Rather than spend 3-5k on a super nice trans Im going to just get a divorced atlas 2 speed and take the load off it. Even with 5.38's in the differentials and lockers I am loading up the trans and im sure I'm creating alot of heat that is leading to the failure.

My original plan was to put a 3 to 1 kit in the 205 but they dont make it for the ford case:doah: So ill get the Atlas t-case with 4 to 1 or 5 to 1 gears, then rebuild the 4l80 myself to save some cash, toss in a good sunco converter and what ever upgrades I can for the clutches, bands and sprags. Add a real nice cooler with a fan on it, a switch for lock up and a temp gauge with a warning light and I should be good.


Any thoughts on a shift kit or manual valve body????:confused: Im unsure if I want to do the manual valve body but it might take some failure points "solenoids" out of the equation.

Just be sure nobody drives it that doesnt understad a full manual VB needs to be shifted. My caprice got drove 13 miles in first gear once.

(for what its worth it was a 78 2 door caprice and I didnt put the MVB trans in it lol)
 
ok putting my mind back on this, pretty much convinced the truck's problem was the torque converter. In some ways this makes me happy but Im also bummed. I have had a grinding/wining noise for months. I had assumed it was my 205 but even after odering the rebuild kit never got around to doing it. Now im thinking that has been my torque converter the entire time:doah:

Truck has been able to be driving around but has been revving, then will grab, or if I manually shift it by taking my foot off the gas while driving and put it in the next higher gear it will grab just fine. I have seen mention of testing the tq by touching the brakes while driving or something along those lines but doing so in my truck makes no difference at all.


so I need to order a kit, some upgrades, tq and a nice fan set up with a temp gage.


-perrformance trans kit from hughes 499.99
-Tow Master 1800-2000 converter from hughes est 500.00-600.00
-transco reprogram/shift kit. 155.00 from hughes
-temp gage and pan, summit, est 200-275.00


they also strongly recommended a performance tuner for my truck, i had been hesitant to get one of these in the past to keep the trany alive but they stressed I would actually benefit from the shift points and line pressure changes. I have not decided on a brand for this yet:confused: est 300-400.00


for the trans cooler so far I am looking at the PRW set up or the fluidyne coolers. PRW makes one that has two fans on it. these are running 600.00 and up:crazy: Also have my mind made up to place this in the bed on of the truck. Trying to see what size line to use as well.



Looks like for about 3k and my time I should have a very good set up that should be reliable and i can monitor. Then once i can do it, put in a divorced atlas and a cage and I should have a hell of a truck.

anything im missing? Or overlooking so far?
 
if u do performance tuning, send ur pcm to blackbear. ask for justin at blackbear. My PCM went there, got retuned to 93 octane, with some changes, transmission, etc it woke my truck up alot, i dont like factory tune anymore! dont trust those handheld programmers too. the best 200 bucks i ever spend!

http://www.blackbearperformance.com/

from their website. if it helps.
Can you clean up the factory shifting?
Absolutely. Unless instructed otherwise, on a relatively stock vehicle, we reduce the time it takes to shift by 30-40% on average. This yields a much more responsive, yet still smooth shift at part throttle, and a more aggressive, firmer shift under heavier throttle. Unless specifically requested, we do not firm the shift up to the point where it will "bang" into the next gear.​
 
so yesterday I got tired of waiting and all my funds have been going towards other things..so I decided to just pick up a used trans and throw it in there.. started last night about midnight and now at 6 am Im all cleaned up:D

I removed the cooler and lines to flush them out, today ill see who has what locally for a larger/better cooler. I got to keep my current dead trans so that is the one ill be building up and throwing some parts and money at. Then.. if the stars align and this trans last long enough to get the other on in I will have this one as a spare:thumb:

I will say having a divorced case 4x4 rocked as I got to leave my drivelines and t-case in lace and didnt have some behemoth of a set up to lift. Just used 2 large ratchet straps and it went pretty smooth..

this is the right way to remove a trans right?:haha:

also had a funny when I went to bolt it to the motor..seems the dowel pin was stuck in the trans, so when i went to bolt it up I had some dowel on dowel action and being I had low light it took a few minutes to catch it. The real fun was getting in between the trans and Cat to pound out the dowel:crazy:

Now ill make the mud boggs on the 13th..there will be pics and vids of me giving her hell being that it lands on my birthday weekend:deal::saweet:

P5260769.JPG

P5260770.JPG

P5260774.JPG
 
1st vid I put her on 3 wheels coming out of the turn..nothing unusual as I do it all the time goofing off but caught some peoples attention to say the least..




then my 3 year old niece saying I am getting cocky lol









IMG_0040.jpg
]

IMG_0041.jpg


IMG_0045.jpg
[/IMG]

Truck did good, never got stuck which made my day. Had some real good runs and had a lot of fun. The only issue was it would not start after the 1st run. Trans wiring plug came off since the clip is broke from the install.. after a couple minutes it was found. Motor was getting hot but that was the trade off I took to keep the radiator and engine blocked from mud. Used a huge entry mat for a business and it worked great.
 
Last edited:
did they forget to put mud in that pit or you just blow through it like it was a freeway?
 
did they forget to put mud in that pit or you just blow through it like it was a freeway?



My camera crew there started some of the vids late along with it got harder as the night went on but my mom had left and I had my camera in my pocket. The people with the camera were also quite a bit past the end of the track and with the rv's.

I cant say it was really hard for the truck, a lot of people got stuck though. Friday night I heard no one was making it through all the way so they obviously changed or fixed the track.

There is another annual mid bog someone holds on their property about an hour away, since they have a rock coarse as well I will be attending that one and maybe have a bigger challenge.

"That iis one nice truck. You have a lot of talent with all the work done"

I have had some good help from friends and people willing to give me a hand or help motivate me rather then letting it sit in the driveway! Without that.. might not be what it is.
 
I just wanna know where your title "Hard on Parts" went.

You are always making sure that title is deserved.

Good work!
 
I just wanna know where your title "Hard on Parts" went.

You are always making sure that title is deserved.

Good work!

fixed.. its back! My friends like to joke that I would get fired from the gm proving grounds here for being too destructive if they hired me.
 
anyways here is some updates on the trucks.

1st problem is bump stops..I ran out of time the week we did the coil overs and front end work and couldn't make up my mind on how I wanted them. So got em done.. problem is I did not have time to remove the 1 inch spacer that got put on the coil over shafts to clear the king pin caps after that was fixed.. so after I just replaced the hardware and tabs the day of the mud bog..I killed them again that night. I have a idea for a contact pad I will mount on the radius arms to fix the problem.

2. factory tail lights and head lights are not rated for this what so ever. Tail lights are now held on with self tapers and working great. Head lights I need to come up with something, maybe a custom fiberglass mount with straps on the sides for support.

3.. broke the spherical ball/heim thingy in the kings.. this sucks, but a good time to fix it will be when I remove the 1 inch spacers off the shafts.

4. rubber floors rock, just avoid the cd player and hose the whole dash and interior.

5. when I got my deavers they goofed and sent me half ton 9/16 u-bolts. By some stroke of luck the truck has held together through all the big jumps. I killed a centering pin and figured I had just not retightened the u-bolts like I thought I had. Um.. I went to put it back together and with my 1/2 inch cheater and I broke the u-bolt!.. upon closser inspection I noticed the u-bolt had wollowed the crap out of the u-bolt plate.. Um.. no my 5/8 hole was letting the 9/16 bolts swim around:doah: I replaced the one and deaver has a whole new set coming for me this week. I was not to happy about this..but if loose, sheered centering pined wrong sized u-bolts can hold up I should feel great with the right ones on and no need to worry. Centering pin was ****ked up.

Also made some changes to my air intake and added inner fenders back on. I have a volant system that grabs air from below the box in the front right fender. I closed off the air pick up after seeing how great is becomes a wet/dry vac int he mud/water. I removed the lid and it pulls from the top now and also added a pre filter on it. After the playing in the mud I pulled it off and shook some dust off. Looks brand new still and didn't get wet! For the inner fenders I found my stock ones at the body shop exactly where i left them 1.5 years ago lol. Slightly modified them for the engine cage and shock hoops and them. They worked great!

These pics also show the new passengers side coil over mount/ pan hard bracket.

P6110845.JPG

P6110849.JPG

P6140887.JPG

P6140892.JPG

P6140890.JPG
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom