Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
Dude! Those are cool!
CK5
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The "under destruction builds" supersize75k5 's driveway of despair and repair
- Thread starter supersize75k5
- Start date
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
One question though, it looks like these are on a special bolt and still has the taper in the knuckle
Mine is drilled out.
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
Looks like a normal high steer arm with a gr.8 bolt and a heavy nut on the bottom.
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
OK, wrapped my mind around it.
The problem is my hiem has a 1 inch hole in it and the knuckle take a 5/8 bolt
So if i pull out the mis alignments the safety washer will do nothing for me and leave the bolt sliding around.
Looks like ballistic has the answer. These are step down's that go from 1 inch to 5/8. and should provide a nice shoulder for the bolt head and nut.
Do you think I still need the safety washer or??????
Sorry to be over thinking this but on my steering I am will ing to ask dumb questions and think it out
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
Yes. I would say use the step down with the safety washer.
dune jump
1/2 ton status
You'd definitely still need the safety washers which ballistic sells as well, the thing is, you'll be close to the same overall width (height) once you stack the heim, 2 safety washers, and two step down reducers. Can you find some 1" dom with a 5/8 I'd, cut it to the heim width, and use safety washers at each end? To me, that seems like the best solution. You're fighting the 1" bore of the joints here, 3/4 would have given more options... But I think you can still make this work.
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
So registration is due..
current license plate is "NO IFS"
Im bored with it.
Ideas on my roster
50 MPG "with or without the custom environment first plate"
DPRT EM "with standard az plate"
Pulling an all nighter currently getting ready for the start of the summer mud bog opener.
removing the wheels and tires off the white truck, installing the 2 inch spacers, then pulling the wheels and tires off the buggy and putting them on the truck, and the trucks on the buggy..
Between everything that adds up to
32+32+32+32+32= 160 lug nuts with a half inch ratchet and some sockets, sure with I could find my 4 way right now
Also, if any mud guys are reading, think it would benefit me to wax the truck before?? I am going to at least rain ex the glass.
The best part of tomorrow night is that I am not just taking the truck Also planning on tossing a set of boggers on the buggy, break one.. grab the other
Thats another 128 lug nuts though
Going to be crazy in an open vehicle for sure
buggy will have 4.56 gears, 6.0 v8/th350 and atlas 4speed with a 38 inch bogger. I plan to run in 2:1 too much??
Truck is a 4 speed with 5.38s and 42s, seems to love it in 2:1..not sure on the buggy though.
Ok, back to work, lots to due and only 14 hours left
Any input is welcome
current license plate is "NO IFS"
Im bored with it.
Ideas on my roster
50 MPG "with or without the custom environment first plate"
DPRT EM "with standard az plate"
Pulling an all nighter currently getting ready for the start of the summer mud bog opener.
removing the wheels and tires off the white truck, installing the 2 inch spacers, then pulling the wheels and tires off the buggy and putting them on the truck, and the trucks on the buggy..
Between everything that adds up to
32+32+32+32+32= 160 lug nuts with a half inch ratchet and some sockets, sure with I could find my 4 way right now
Also, if any mud guys are reading, think it would benefit me to wax the truck before?? I am going to at least rain ex the glass.
The best part of tomorrow night is that I am not just taking the truck
Also planning on tossing a set of boggers on the buggy, break one.. grab the other Thats another 128 lug nuts though
Going to be crazy in an open vehicle for sure
buggy will have 4.56 gears, 6.0 v8/th350 and atlas 4speed with a 38 inch bogger. I plan to run in 2:1 too much??
Truck is a 4 speed with 5.38s and 42s, seems to love it in 2:1..not sure on the buggy though.
Ok, back to work, lots to due and only 14 hours left
Any input is welcome
yes, rainX the windshield and wax the truck heavy or spray it down with WD40 or veggie oil. The mud will dry up then just flake off.
PAM cooking spray does good, and rip it up in 2:1.
the body isnt really a problem getting the mud off, just rinse and wipe. its all the other crap that really is a pain in the ass to get off.
mud can collect in the radiator, try to keep that clean.
and anxiously waiting for pics!!
the body isnt really a problem getting the mud off, just rinse and wipe. its all the other crap that really is a pain in the ass to get off.
mud can collect in the radiator, try to keep that clean.
and anxiously waiting for pics!!
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Oh you so crazy! I think 2:1 should be fine. Just probably wont be in 1st gear much.
I've seen guys get those 1 or 2 gallon hand pump sprayers for like weed spray and get some cheap vegetable oil or similar that's cheap and coat the inner fenders and under neither and the whole body if you really want mud to not stick
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
Well never did update this after the mud bog.. the all night thrash was a success.. ran 2:1 and kicked butt. To be honest the mud bog was a bit of a let down, by the end of the night I started running in 2wd just to make ruts for the jeepers
So little story time. Last year on June 15th i was on my way to a nice dinner with my family in nice dress clothes and I get a nasty vibration. I pull over and its clear as day my rear drivelines u-joint was toast, blue and about to go off on me. I called up my friend jason he lived less than a mile away and I pulled into his place. We did a nascar u-joint swap and from the time I called him to the time I left was 12 minutes iirc
Anywho.. fast forward to my b-day this year. Its 8am and Im driving home after crashing at a friends house the night before. Sure as hell it gets a bad vibe. I am almost home so I go for it.. well just a mile short I chuck the rear shaft and it goes floppy floppy like someone who just got caught by their mom while jerkin
There was a utility truck behind me who cought wind and he pulled behind me and turned on his emergency beekon lights
No sooner than he go out I was under the truck with my 7/16 , a water and taking the shaft off. Tossed it in the bed and put her in 4x4. He said it looked like I had done this before.. if he only knew..I joked and told him give me another 20 minutes and the trans can be out
Ok.. so I later fix the shaft.. here is the problem I never swapped the 1310 off the back of the divorced 205.. so that left me with a 1410 on the axle side and a non shawn approved 1310 on the t-case side I put 3 more trips since on the 1310 and this week finally fixed the band aid.
I use phoenix rack n axle here in sunny az, this makes my 21st, 22nd and 23rd driveline from them with all my projects. All have been great Highly recommended and tell them I sent you if you call for one.
Steve and Berney are in the pics and make all of them for the shop..together they have 40-50 years in the biz!
Here is some pics while doing the rear.
Started with a nice hunk of 250 wall tube, shawn rated
Bevel those edges for a nice flat weld
Cut to size and set up the yokes and mocked the stub/slip
Home made slide like tool placed over the splines to hammer it in place.
Chucked up in the lathe, they have dummy axle yokes machined to bolt to the driveline yoke to chuck it in there "not shown in pic" Press the thing together with a hydro pump that is driven off a pedal and check the run out, tap with a hammer to get er close before welding.
weld away a nice flat weld, the lathe has a stand they use to place the welder tip in and they just free spin the drive line by hand in the lathe while welding it.
cool her down
nice flat weld
little out of wack from welding. add some torch then cool to pull/shrink it real quick.
run it and check to balance, add the weight and some black engine enamel paint..
done!
The front I just had the cv rebuilt, nice thick tube upgrade, and new u-joints.
My old rear driveline I put in a conversion joint being I upgraded the 1310 on the t-case. Not that I should need a spare but ill carry it as one.
Moral of the story is if your u-joints fail on your birthday 2 years in a row.. next year swap them the day before !
-shawn
So little story time. Last year on June 15th i was on my way to a nice dinner with my family in nice dress clothes and I get a nasty vibration. I pull over and its clear as day my rear drivelines u-joint was toast, blue and about to go off on me. I called up my friend jason he lived less than a mile away and I pulled into his place. We did a nascar u-joint swap and from the time I called him to the time I left was 12 minutes iirc
Anywho.. fast forward to my b-day this year. Its 8am and Im driving home after crashing at a friends house the night before. Sure as hell it gets a bad vibe. I am almost home so I go for it.. well just a mile short I chuck the rear shaft and it goes floppy floppy like someone who just got caught by their mom while jerkin
There was a utility truck behind me who cought wind and he pulled behind me and turned on his emergency beekon lights
No sooner than he go out I was under the truck with my 7/16 , a water and taking the shaft off. Tossed it in the bed and put her in 4x4. He said it looked like I had done this before.. if he only knew..I joked and told him give me another 20 minutes and the trans can be out
Ok.. so I later fix the shaft.. here is the problem I never swapped the 1310 off the back of the divorced 205.. so that left me with a 1410 on the axle side and a non shawn approved 1310 on the t-case side
I put 3 more trips since on the 1310 and this week finally fixed the band aid.I use phoenix rack n axle here in sunny az, this makes my 21st, 22nd and 23rd driveline from them with all my projects. All have been great
Highly recommended and tell them I sent you if you call for one.Steve and Berney are in the pics and make all of them for the shop..together they have 40-50 years in the biz!
Here is some pics while doing the rear.
Started with a nice hunk of 250 wall tube, shawn rated
Bevel those edges for a nice flat weld
Cut to size and set up the yokes and mocked the stub/slip
Home made slide like tool placed over the splines to hammer it in place.
Chucked up in the lathe, they have dummy axle yokes machined to bolt to the driveline yoke to chuck it in there "not shown in pic" Press the thing together with a hydro pump that is driven off a pedal and check the run out, tap with a hammer to get er close before welding.
weld away a nice flat weld, the lathe has a stand they use to place the welder tip in and they just free spin the drive line by hand in the lathe while welding it.
cool her down
nice flat weld
little out of wack from welding. add some torch then cool to pull/shrink it real quick.
run it and check to balance, add the weight and some black engine enamel paint..
done!
The front I just had the cv rebuilt, nice thick tube upgrade, and new u-joints.
My old rear driveline I put in a conversion joint being I upgraded the 1310 on the t-case. Not that I should need a spare but ill carry it as one.
Moral of the story is if your u-joints fail on your birthday 2 years in a row.. next year swap them the day before !
-shawn
Last edited:
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Looks tough!
I'm sure Shawn will still find a way to destroy it.
StevoandaRedK5
1/2 ton status
qft
I think Shawn is one of those people who would rather not have ABS.
Great for street driving, but from what I've heard, it is dangerous off-road.
Nothing like touching your brakes while going downhill and having the ABS fire off and send you galloping downhill.
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
That and the pretty lights on the dash are my favorite feature..
besides they give me something to look at while driving off road
4300rpms, 87mph, taking a picture of your dash.
