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The "under destruction builds" supersize75k5 's driveway of despair and repair

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Not as much progress as I hoped but getting there.


I was chucked the t-case up there and got some measurements for the new driveline. I had the original 1 piece out of mine and a 2 piece with carrier bearing out of the wrecked 02 so I took both to Phoenix Rack and Axle my driveshaft guys.

Bummer is it just too long for a 1 piece with out goin to aluminum and a large diameter.

Lucky for me I saved the 2 piece driveline, bummer is my trucks frame does not have a provision for it:doah:


So tomorrow project is building a carrier bearing support and the break lines.


Also need to figure out the filler neck deal with the utility body. It looks like they use some sort of adaptor for the hose and angle:dunno:
 
Looks cool with the service body on there. :)
Reminds me of all the desert guy's chase trucks.
 
Avery4jc said:
Looks cool with the service body on there. :)
Reminds me of all the desert guy's chase trucks.
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This is the look/function I am overall going for:D


Travis, its not too tall its perfect, Now I will be able to seprerate my stuff into little "work zones" before it was everywhere and also in the cab. Before even at stock hight with a flush mount tool box I would have to get in the bed to get any thing out of it in the bottom, add the fact that I had to huge rat pack sliders and I was awkwardly standing 1 foot off the bed floor while trying to dig through the tool box. No fun at all and my bed space was no where to be found.


As for why.... cause thats how I roll:thumb: I wanted a long bed, decided to swap frames and I cant think of an easier way to do a sas than when you have no motor, trans or body in the way while removing factory brackets. So far price wise I am sure to do all this work I wont be too far off what it would cost the average Joe to fully rebuild a 190k ifs suspension.



oK, off to outside to go crank some stuff out:saweet:
 
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Is there any houses on your street for sale or want a room mate?:haha:

truck looks good i like the chase truck look.:waytogo:
 
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grabngears said:
Is there any houses on your street for sale or want a room mate?:haha:

truck looks good i like the chase truck look.:waytogo:
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Kind of going for that look, still have plenty to go before its there but I am moving along.

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went to the dealer and picked up the plug and pig tail for the vss on the new 241, have to figure the wiring out. Also picked up a new head light support panel to replace mine as well as a nice gm gasket for the t-case to adaptor.

I am hoping that gasket saves me headaches or having to scrape off right stuff later:tongue1:
 
Looking good shawn. I read the last plug on the tail of the 261/263 is the vss you will need, the rest just move outa the way. The other two are supposed to be not needed. Also seen if you unplug the ats module that right between the column and the drivers vent that the service 4wd light is no longer. I know you did this before but these are the two ive found.

Do you have a part number for the 241 pigtail..?

Do you think a front shaft from the 73-87 style trucks might work..?
 
rob h said:
Looking good shawn. I read the last plug on the tail of the 261/263 is the vss you will need, the rest just move outa the way. The other two are supposed to be not needed. Also seen if you unplug the ats module that right between the column and the drivers vent that the service 4wd light is no longer. I know you did this before but these are the two ive found.

Do you have a part number for the 241 pigtail..?

Do you think a front shaft from the 73-87 style trucks might work..?
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I was thinking of you earlier lol


I got some pics and part numbers for the break lineS I will post up after im done working on it for the night.

Pig tail was 29 bucks:doah: but I didn't want a dried out one form the junk yard or the hassle so its worth it.

Part number for the vss 241 pigtail is gm 12085498

On the gm diagram of the t-case item # 46 is for the t-case selector or indicator, from what my guy at the dealer shows me there is 2 different style plugs for this so I will look at mine before buying that so I get the correct one.


I had read on pirate about unpluging the TCCM under the dash but it also mentioned grounding out a wire while in low range. To do this I might rig up the factory 4low button.


One huge thing reading that though is make me wonder if not having my 07 modified with a vss on the 205.. I am curious being my truck was 2x if this is contributing to some of my transmission failures???? I leave the truck in 4low almost always and it seem the topic on pirate was so it shifted properly in 4low. I need to look into it more.



The mud bog is sat, I also plan to put a new trans in the 07 between now and then:doah: Id like a definitive answer on the problem with running 4 low, maybe I will run 4 hi first till I can come up with a solution.


Done with the carrier bearing support, is your truck a 1 piece or a two rob? If a 1 piece building a support was stupid easy:pimp:


On the front shaft I will take a look and measure it out, my plan is to just have one made this week or toss in the spare shaft for the buggy so my exhaust guy can get it right the first time.

-shawn
 
Not like you need it but here's some motivation/inspiration from my tow rig/chase truck picture archive on my computer. :)

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Well its 3:freakin thirty in the am here and I finally just crawled back inside.


Odly the hardest part of this entire job was my darn t-case. It had bolts rather than studs and someone had forced/retapped the holes to 3/8.. I spent forever pulling the studs out of my old case, then fought like hell and damn near lost my mind.

Took one of the bolts and grabbed a 3/8 nut, sure and **** thats what it was:doah: Finally got the case in there 4 hours after I started, should have taken just a few minutes, piece of crap t-case will probably be a leaker with how it doesn't like me too.:angry1:

Drive line is in too so that part makes me happy.

Tomorrows list

-airbox
-recheck wheel spacers, bolt on front wheels off old frame
-bleed brakes
-trans fluid
-diff fluid
-power steering
-coolant
-trans cooler
-rear brake line/extension


another long day tomorrow:thumb:


Avery I have all those pics off the pirate chase truck thread lol, the monster one is what solidified my choice to chop my bumper, just needs tube now.


For the utility bed I need to decide where I want it, I am thinking it would be a nice start for a cage/chase rack if I ran a 2" tube between the cab and bed and connected to the frame like the red truck has..
 
Yea , my truck has a one piece rear shaft, its a huge alluminum piece. The brake line part #'s would be great for when i do mine. For the 241 i might use a glo clocking ring so it has a nice set of studs to bolt it up but im not sure if the thickness would mess things up. I was thinking tho the module i spoke of before has the plugs in it one for the case and the other for the axle, id unplug that 1st to see if it shifts in low before the switch in the wire to the ground idea. Thats just trucks with the 263 that unplugging the ats module works on. let me know what plug on the case you use when you plug in the vss so then im not serching...lol. Hows the clocking of the 241, where does the front output come out..? ..i was told it aims right at the xmember...i figured you would know for sure. Does the shifter from you 261 work on the 241..? Ill be doing this in a month or so, any good info is appreciated.

I'll post the thread from gmfs shortly below, the wire to hook up to shift in 4low is shown.
 
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Here are the 3 plugs that are for the NBS half tons with NVG246 and NVG 263 Transfer cases. If you have a floor shift (NVG261) you do not have a TCCM. It seems that the NBS trucks have the same TCCM regardless of tcase!



EDIT: After i just compared circuit numbers from the OBS to NBS it seems GM was common on curcuitry and the correct pinout will be B5 that needs to be grounded on NBS.

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Interesting thought on the 4lo Shawn. When I swapped my 241 in my newer bodystyle 07, I just used the vss from the donor truck I found the 241 in. Then it's just a purple wire and a green wire to splice and that's it. But that 4lo issue still makes me wonder.
 
greatwhitez71 said:
Interesting thought on the 4lo Shawn. When I swapped my 241 in my newer bodystyle 07, I just used the vss from the donor truck I found the 241 in. Then it's just a purple wire and a green wire to splice and that's it. But that 4lo issue still makes me wonder.
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It really has me wondering, with my whole NWF ****er cable bs I just left the truck in 4low..

Hell its been in low for probably a few months solid lol. If you were not using low a lot or all the time I'm sure the shifting being goofed would not be as big of a deal but that is 99 percent where my t-case is all the time.

Rob thanks for the diagram, I had wrote it down but that is much easier to reference.:thumb:



Just got done with breakfast so I'm off to go crank on this thing some more:pimp:
 
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rob h said:
Yea , my truck has a one piece rear shaft, its a huge alluminum piece. The brake line part #'s would be great for when i do mine. For the 241 i might use a glo clocking ring so it has a nice set of studs to bolt it up but im not sure if the thickness would mess things up. I was thinking tho the module i spoke of before has the plugs in it one for the case and the other for the axle, id unplug that 1st to see if it shifts in low before the switch in the wire to the ground idea. Thats just trucks with the 263 that unplugging the ats module works on. let me know what plug on the case you use when you plug in the vss so then im not serching...lol. Hows the clocking of the 241, where does the front output come out..? ..i was told it aims right at the xmember...i figured you would know for sure. Does the shifter from you 261 work on the 241..? Ill be doing this in a month or so, any good info is appreciated.

I'll post the thread from gmfs shortly below, the wire to hook up to shift in 4low is shown.
Click to expand...

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brake line parts used

(2) 10mm bango fitting to #4 brake line male threads

(2) #4 line 36" long with female ends

(2) Line adaptors from inverted flare to #4 male

Basically with this I was able to unscrew the factory brake line, thread my piece on to the hard line attach my hose then attach the hose to the bango and fitting on the caliper. real smooth:thumb:

On my 07 I did it a little different and used a union on the factory hard line, then a 12" extension to a new brake hose but this time I didn't feel like chasing down the right union fittings.

Clocking on the 241 looks ok, I planned on maybe adding the ring. I will have more thoughts on it after I get a driveline in there. The t-case is about 2 inches above the skid plate.

For the driveline.. I would strongly consider a 2 piece id yours is going to be over 80"..I know myself too well and replacing a high dollar aluminum shaft would be a real likely scenario for me so a steel 2 piece was a better choice.

My 261 was push button so on the t-case I will be doing a factory floor shifter from a earlier 90's truck with the 241.


On the 241 that back plug on the cone is the vss, as mentioned if you can get one with your t-case from the donor it would save you a few bucks. The front plug "item 46" ont he gm diagram is just your indicator.
 
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Greatwhitez71 said that if i take out the 263 and pop in the 241 i should be able to use the same shaft. I looked up the lengths and there .500 within each other, so i might be good. Prob a 1350-1410 neapco joint and i should be able to adapt the 241 slip yoke to my shaft....for the time being anyway i hope. Mine is ext cab shortbed like yours was...lol. Thanks for the brakeline sizes and the 241 clocking, if i dont have to use a ring i wont, just one less thing to buy. Also seen where they used the floor shifter/linkage from the 261, from a truck your style and it worked perfect...even looks like it came there.

Do the studs from the 263 work in the 241..?
 
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