Thanks man. From the initial design to this point, there are probably 30-40 hours into these two firewalls, but I’m also learning as I go.
David
CK5
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The Willomet Charger
- Thread starter AgDieseler
- Start date
A desecration to Mopar nuts everywhere, this is my protouring, LS-powered, 1970 Dodge Charger; built at my shop, Willomet Motor & Fabrication.
David
Mawwiage.
This was a B to fit up and keep square. I’ll double check in the morning before I weld.
David
This was a B to fit up and keep square. I’ll double check in the morning before I weld.
David
Didnt seem that hard to me
Just have to weld, hammer, and blend the last seam.
I couldn’t wait for a test fit.
David
I couldn’t wait for a test fit.
David
Getting seams like this perfectly flat takes some time.
The fit was already super tight, so most of the tacks are autogeneous. I still use filler on the weld, and lately I’ve been using a “backwards” travel direction. I just pedal pulse 7-10 dabs at a time right to left, with each grouping stacking up left to right, so the last dab of each grouping ends where the prior one started. The penetration is super consistent, and heat input doesn’t grow across the part.
I stumbled across the technique, and will keep using until I find something that works better.
View attachment IMG_0296.mov
Bumping and blending this 18” seam alone takes a little over an hour.
Meanwhile, SendCutSend boxes have arrived, and it’s time to work on the suburban bumper.
David
The fit was already super tight, so most of the tacks are autogeneous. I still use filler on the weld, and lately I’ve been using a “backwards” travel direction. I just pedal pulse 7-10 dabs at a time right to left, with each grouping stacking up left to right, so the last dab of each grouping ends where the prior one started. The penetration is super consistent, and heat input doesn’t grow across the part.
I stumbled across the technique, and will keep using until I find something that works better.
View attachment IMG_0296.mov
Bumping and blending this 18” seam alone takes a little over an hour.
Meanwhile, SendCutSend boxes have arrived, and it’s time to work on the suburban bumper.
David
Okay, now I’m going to work on the suburban bumper.
David
David
SendCutSend does CNC work now. It’s just aluminum, but this finally arrived, and I can’t wait to pop it out of the blister.
David
David
Nice.
I hope those ideas are what we heard about awhile back.
Probably just a cam and peripherals. 650ish hp is more than enough to evaporate 325s.
David
What is the fix? I'll look it up but being lazy right now.
Well quick google search says this.
AI Overview
LS7 head fix addresses the infamous "dropped valve" issue caused by faulty factory valve guides, preventing catastrophic engine failure. The fix involves
replacing stock valve guides with aftermarket bronze guides, installing upgraded one-piece stainless steel exhaust valves, and fitting stronger valve springs. Reputable shops like AHP, Katech, and Frankenstein Engine Dynamics specialize in this
Kind of what I figured...
I've read that some valve guides are incorrect tolerance from the factory, some the valve job is not centered on the guide, and some wear too fast, but may be related. Some sources say its limited to certain dates and manufacturers, but it doesn't seem clear. I was under the impression this was just a factory corvette issue from a specific manufacturer. I did not think it applied to newer crate engines, but it can be checked.
I think roller tip rockers would help with wear, but they won't fix it if its a material issue.
I think the valve springs will be swapped with the cam anyway.
The guides can be checked with not too much extra time. If something is wrong, it would need a valve job, or new guides, or both.
I think roller tip rockers would help with wear, but they won't fix it if its a material issue.
I think the valve springs will be swapped with the cam anyway.
The guides can be checked with not too much extra time. If something is wrong, it would need a valve job, or new guides, or both.
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Might as well put a bigger better head on it at that point to be safe and sell them to a vette guy.
A lot of what I read after trying to figure out if my heads would do this, said high rpm tends to increase the possibility.
The guys that drove it for looks on sundays never had issues, but the ones that regularly redlined it almost always did.
The heads they put on mine are different.
And I wonder if they addressed the issue with newer engines..?
The guys that drove it for looks on sundays never had issues, but the ones that regularly redlined it almost always did.
The heads they put on mine are different.
And I wonder if they addressed the issue with newer engines..?
The factory LS7 heads have CNC ports and titanium valves, they are pretty good, they might be fine, or they might need tweaking. I doesn't appear the valve itself is the problem, and they are brand new. But I wouldn't trust a used valve if it had been ran and wore in a faulty or misaligned guide.
IMHO I'd do GOOD ls3 heads if you were going to replace them. They flow as much and sometimes more than a lot of ls7 versions and there's a LOT more options when it comes to intakes, superchargers, etc.
Ls7 has very limited aftermarket for induction
Ls7 has very limited aftermarket for induction
