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The Willomet Charger

A desecration to Mopar nuts everywhere, this is my protouring, LS-powered, 1970 Dodge Charger; built at my shop, Willomet Motor & Fabrication.
Finished assembling the other footwell, and tacked everything.

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For @JoshHefnerX, here’s how the torque boxes and footwells tie together.
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Then... View attachment 289730

I did a thing...
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My friend said, “with all this space, this is where the bar goes.”
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So much room for activities.
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Forwardmost shifter is perfect at mid-thigh.
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Mid-front engine status.
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Fully depressed clutch on the left, lifting throttle on the right. Feels correct.
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It was a good day.

David

Execellent! :bow:

I didn't realize how far back the drivetrain was moving. What will you do with the extra volume up front?
 
What will you do with the extra volume up front?
The engine placement isn’t final, and it could come forward an inch or two, but it’s very unlikely to push back any further. The extra space will be dedicated the forward angled cooling stack and its heat extractors. Depending on how my front suspension plan works out, it could also hold cantilevered coilovers, but that’s still very uncertain.

David
 
Happy New Year, gents.

I got down the steering column, and started getting a sense for driver location. The square tube is the approximate shifter location, and hits me mid-thigh - perfect for me. At @blazinzuk ’s suggestion, I started studying engine and trans offset, and there’s quite a lot of Internet opinion out there, but I’ve started rereading that section of my Herb Adams chassis engineering book. Right now, everything is 1/2” to the right. GM has the Camaro offset by 5/8”.
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Drama lighting. Race car 2x8 seating.
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The current setback puts the firewall between cylinders 3 and 5. I may still draw the whole thing forward some more, and elevate it another couple of inches
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David
 
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Happy New Year, gents.

I got down the steering column, and started getting a sense for driver location. The square tube is the approximate shifter location, and hits me mid-thigh - perfect for me. At @blazinzuk ’s suggestion, I started studying engine and trans offset, and there’s quite a lot of Internet opinion out there, but I’ve started rereading that section of my Herb Adams chassis engineering book. Right now, everything is 1/2” to the right. GM has the Camaro offset by 1.25”.
View attachment 290180

Drama lighting. Race car 2x8 seating.
View attachment 290182

The current setback puts the firewall between cylinders 3 and 5. I may still draw the whole thing forward some more, and elevate it another couple of inches
View attachment 290181

David
The ducting for the twin turbos will be interesting, as will the valve covers matching the body paint
 
The ducting for the twin turbos will be interesting, as will the valve covers matching the body paint
More likely a Procharger D1SC or F1. They're good folk that I met at SEMA through HPTuners. It's a weight and space efficient method of building boost, and my power goal is modest for an LS: 650-700, with lots of usable torque, and a separate balls-out E85 tune.
The headers... That will be interesting.
This is a bit of an unknown. The Holley 302-1 oil pan has the space required for the 4 tube crossover/exchange, and the initial header bends seem to have enough space to turn down. But, you're right. It will be interesting.

Also, the 1/2" offset is 90% confirmed. The expanded footwell space will be useful for my size-twelves, and it's the most popular placement used by the cars that inspired me - Dusold's Camaro, JCG's Challenger, and a handful of 2nd gen Camaros I follow. More evidence of the high value of this forum. I would never have thought to update and adjust without the input of some squarebody guys.

David
 
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Spent some time talking with the guys at Chris Alston’s Chassisworks, and resolved a few open questions related to engine placement.

They agreed with Eric on the 1/2” offset, and encouraged anything up to 1”. I’m sticking at 1/2” because the passenger side header clearance between the torque box and starter is already fairly tight.

Also, I’ve been mocking up the elevation of the powertrain in chassis, and came to the conclusion that the transmission needs to largely be flat with the bottom of the rocker beams. A flat bottom should help air flow and eases my design for shear plates. Mike at CACW corrected my thinking - I’m not raising the powertrain in the car, but rather lowering the car over the powertrain, correcting my perception of the change to the center of gravity. I have about another 1-7/8” to adjust. This also ensures that in the case of a wheel failure, the first thing to contact the ground is a chassismember, rather than an oil pan or the trans.

With this update, I spent the evening making small adjustments, and mapped out the inner chassis structure - measure, draw on grid paper, transfer to bendtech. The trans mount sits roughly halfway, there’s room for two 3” exhaust tubes, and the driveshaft will poke down a bit toward the end.

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Onward to the engine mounts and crossmember. The engine-side plates I ordered arrive Friday, and I’ve started sketching a design to connect them inside the front rails.

David
 
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Have been closely following your Instagram posts on this, David. I am always impressed by the caliber of your craftsmanship, which is far beyond anything I could ever hope to achieve, yet still inspires me to push myself harder and further. Thank you for your dedication to the trade and your contribution to all of us here on CK5. :saweet:
 
I spent the weekend with a tape measure in my hand. Very little fab, but got a lot done.

Forgot to take a photo, so this is off Instagram. I rendered the center supports in steel. I didn’t tack them since I still had to pull the powertrain.
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Engine mount plates are in house.59369988-23BA-4649-891A-F9BFB89B7EA8.jpeg

With the bushing in line with the forward pair of cylinders, there should be plenty of room for the exhaust crossovers. 4CB8FA6B-A061-4743-8F7A-B012EE59F605.jpeg

The bushing is just barely above level from the frame - about 9/16”. 0DB061C9-E784-4A05-8ACC-7DE42381E344.jpeg

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Wrapped up the measurements, and pulled everything so I can build the cradle on the engine stand.
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Minor dimensional changes aside, this is the design - 1/8” base with 14ga overlays. That should be plenty strong but not too heavy. The crossmember will be aluminum, and I will have to work out that exact design.

8B96F2EF-C075-4496-82ED-295EC8BCACA1.jpeg

Have been closely following your Instagram posts on this, David. I am always impressed by the caliber of your craftsmanship, which is far beyond anything I could ever hope to achieve, yet still inspires me to push myself harder and further. Thank you for your dedication to the trade and your contribution to all of us here on CK5.
Thanks very much. There are high caliber people and their builds on here that inspire me, and I’m just following their good example.

David
 
I spent the weekend with a tape measure in my hand. Very little fab, but got a lot done.

Forgot to take a photo, so this is off Instagram. I rendered the center supports in steel. I didn’t tack them since I still had to pull the powertrain.
View attachment 290878

Engine mount plates are in house.View attachment 290876

With the bushing in line with the forward pair of cylinders, there should be plenty of room for the exhaust crossovers. View attachment 290877

The bushing is just barely above level from the frame - about 9/16”. View attachment 290874

View attachment 290875

Wrapped up the measurements, and pulled everything so I can build the cradle on the engine stand.
View attachment 290873

Minor dimensional changes aside, this is the design - 1/8” base with 14ga overlays. That should be plenty strong but not too heavy. The crossmember will be aluminum, and I will have to work out that exact design.

View attachment 290872


Thanks very much. There are high caliber people and their builds on here that inspire me, and I’m just following their good example.

David
You, Greg, Royken(Paul), and plenty others here send me down such a spiral of thoughts about how things should be build, what I have the ability to build, and how I want things built that I don't know if I will ever get anything done. I love this build, not even a Mopar guy though dad and I have a Keith Black 1/2 stroked 440 that should be pulled from the motorhome and given new life in another vehicle. Turbo, 503 Mopar... just saying... and its fuel injected.

Carry on. You are doing it right.
 
You, Greg, Royken(Paul), and plenty others here send me down such a spiral of thoughts about how things should be build, what I have the ability to build, and how I want things built that I don't know if I will ever get anything done. I love this build, not even a Mopar guy though dad and I have a Keith Black 1/2 stroked 440 that should be pulled from the motorhome and given new life in another vehicle. Turbo, 503 Mopar... just saying... and its fuel injected.

Carry on. You are doing it right.
I appreciate that. It’s a lot of fun openly sharing my plans and mistakes and progress and my rework. If you’ve found that useful, then I’m glad for it.

A 500 cube Mopar would look good in a K5...

David
 
I saw the engine position and headers and thought of you.
That’s a gnarly build. I like the dedication to a theme and his willingness to use it as a learning experience. The 8-into-1 is pretty damn cool, too. 700hp seems low for a 10k RPM LS on alcohol, and his hose routing is a trigger for my OCD.

Lots of cool details, and I like details.

David
 
That’s a gnarly build. I like the dedication to a theme and his willingness to use it as a learning experience. The 8-into-1 is pretty damn cool, too. 700hp seems low for a 10k RPM LS on alcohol, and his hose routing is a trigger for my OCD.

Lots of cool details, and I like details.

David


Lol I noticed that too. I thought man hose routing could be cleaned up a bit.
 
Yeah, Hose routing is a mess. It was 700 to the wheels, but the fact that it's not grenaded at 10k rpm is pretty awesome in itself. If he really built that in a carport at his parents house, the dude's got some promise for sure.

Any updates to the charger?
 

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