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The Willomet Charger

A desecration to Mopar nuts everywhere, this is my protouring, LS-powered, 1970 Dodge Charger; built at my shop, Willomet Motor & Fabrication.
Any updates to the charger?
I'm finishing the engine cradle design tonight to send it for laser. It's 10 separate components that are assembled to create a pair of mounts and crossmember/cradle, and it's taken longer than I'd like to get it rendered and nested. Some parts took a few revisions before I got a design that was optimized for weight and strength. Also, Bend-Tech's DXF export for plate isn't that great, and I don't want the laser shop making adjustments to the design, so there's always a back and forth before stuff goes to production.

Here are all the layers put together (green lines are the engine skirt outline);
upload_2019-1-10_18-7-53.png

David
 
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Holy shit dude, that looks fantastic!
Thanks man. I spent two weeks drawing it, and went through 5 revisions before this final version - trying to minimize weight without sacrificing strength. Lots of welding to do.
That thing is a work of art!
Appreciate that. Just trying to up my game, and this was a good opportunity to flex out on bendtech, and create something new.

David
 
TIG TIG TIG, all day long.

After helping a buddy get a swaybar in his 63 suburban, I turned to the engine frame mounts.

.045 70S-2 55A
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.063 70S-2 110A
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I’m about out of argon, but I’ll get as far as I can tomorrow.
You have definitely upped your game. Your OCD is next level!!! If I ever get up Dallas way I'd love to come check this thing out.
You’re welcome anytime.

David
 
Amazing Tig'ing (is that a word?). I don't know how you can even see clearly enough to make those perfect little welds. I'd have to wear my cheaters!

So the sleeve goes through the plate and you welded front and back, huh? Then ground the face flush? Extremely nice detail (and strong), but it's overkill more than likely isn't it? Not knocking it, just curious if that's really necessary over just fitting the sleeve between the plates and welding the back side only. Then only have the hole in the face the same size as the ID on the sleeve. Again, love the detail, just curious about the need for going that route. I doubt you'll have to worry about the mounts breaking!!!!
 
Extremely nice detail (and strong), but it's overkill more than likely isn't it?
It could be, and that is my MO. You’re right on the process - weld and blend.

Less about strength, it was double welded to seal against water intrusion. I don’t like the idea of moisture getting inside the 1/2” tubes or between the overlay plates. I’m also planning to lightly zap the inside of the bolt holes where the plates join.

It’s almost certainly overkill.
I doubt you'll have to worry about the mounts breaking
I agree. My bigger concern is them controlling the twist and spreading forces from the engine mounts, and translating that directly to the chassis without deflection.

David
 
Sounds like you got it all covered. I certainly agree with you on the water intrusion aspect. Coming from an industrial paint background, everytime I see a gap or crack or stitch welded seam I know there will be water in there at some point, and thus corrosion (or at least rust spotting). Best to have it all sealed up tight!
 
You said you're getting those boxing plates across the bottom of the crossmember redone right?
 
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