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The Wonton

Overview Gallery Discussion
GWeakland620 said:
Perfect hot for teacher rhythm!

Man, I want one of my big blocks to sound like that someday.
Click to expand...

Camshaft and headers.

He hit the first 4 bolt on upgrades I usually recommend for a BBC.

headers, cam, intake + carb (or EFI tune)

The next step gets expensive because it involves cylinder heads and/or cranks and pistons so you get a lot of bang for your buck with those mods he did.
 
folkenheath said:
Camshaft and headers.

He hit the first 4 bolt on upgrades I usually recommend for a BBC.

headers, cam, intake + carb (or EFI tune)

The next step gets expensive because it involves cylinder heads and/or cranks and pistons so you get a lot of bang for your buck with those mods he did.
Click to expand...

I'm glad you approve, lol. I told him he needed that gen 6 and heads, and told him he needed that intake and cam. However, Jon did surprise me a with a double pumper. I assumed he would have went vacuum secondary. But Jon is a baller like that, lol.
 
folkenheath said:
Camshaft and headers.

He hit the first 4 bolt on upgrades I usually recommend for a BBC.

headers, cam, intake + carb (or EFI tune)

The next step gets expensive because it involves cylinder heads and/or cranks and pistons so you get a lot of bang for your buck with those mods he did.
Click to expand...
Yes I didn’t have the budget to go all out but I wanted to to at least cover the basics
 
USSkoval said:
I'm glad you approve, lol. I told him he needed that gen 6 and heads, and told him he needed that intake and cam. However, Jon did surprise me a with a double pumper. I assumed he would have went vacuum secondary. But Jon is a baller like that, lol.
Click to expand...
Maybe later down the line I’ll get fancy heads but for now this is pretty darn good for me :woot:
 
Check your intake bolt length.

When we had bent, fugged up pushrods on the wife's car recently, we found that an intake bolt was a bit too long, and just barely pushing on one of the rods. Which caused it to bend then break.
 
shady said:
Check your intake bolt length.

When we had bent, fugged up pushrods on the wife's car recently, we found that an intake bolt was a bit too long, and just barely pushing on one of the rods. Which caused it to bend then break.
Click to expand...

Nah... Jon is a victim of himself sometimes @Jonathan L

We are pretty sure it was a combo of a loose valve adjustment and 3/8" guide plates being used with 5/16" pushrods. Not positive, but nearly certain.
 
I don't think I've ever seen 5/16 pushrods on a big block. I typically recommend one piece chromemoly pushrods. But I can get factory type replacements with pressed or welded on ends.

Are you sure the stock length was good geometry? Any good ones left to check that before we get a replacement set?
 
folkenheath said:
I don't think I've ever seen 5/16 pushrods on a big block. I typically recommend one piece chromemoly pushrods. But I can get factory type replacements with pressed or welded on ends.

Are you sure the stock length was good geometry? Any good ones left to check that before we get a replacement set?
Click to expand...
We checked length yesterday and measurements are roughly 7 5/8” and 8 1/2”
 
folkenheath said:
I don't think I've ever seen 5/16 pushrods on a big block. I typically recommend one piece chromemoly pushrods. But I can get factory type replacements with pressed or welded on ends.

Are you sure the stock length was good geometry? Any good ones left to check that before we get a replacement set?
Click to expand...
Geometry seemed good, but we can double check. *Rough* measurements were 7 5/8" and 8 5/8"... whatever the stock length would be for a gen6. All my truck big blocks are/were 5/16" pushrods too. Seems ridiculous, imho. The '78 now has chromoly 3/8" pushrods after a failed timing sprocket incident in GA. The 3/8" was Jon's intent too (hence the 3/8" guide plates), he just forgot about them.
 
A set of stock replacement type Howards, (but thicker wall and hardened for guideplates are about $75), the chrome moly one piece are about $190 - $225 a set. I can check other brands just giving you a ballpark. They are about 7.600/8.600 to 7.700/7.800 in length depending on brand for the "recommended" length. Its best to measure for each application since you changed the cam but with the adjustable valvetrain many people get away with just using the standard length. Just make sure you check the geometry after you assembler to be sure it's good to go.

Since you had 5/16" pushrods in 3/8 guideplates make sure you aren't knocking a retainer loose or damaged some. I'd hate to see you put it back together and then drop a valve because of what happened before. So inspect all your valve tips, retainers, and locks to make sure they are all seated.

Let me know if you want me to get you a set.
 
@folkenheath the geometry looks ok to me. The rockers ride a little towards the outside of the stems, but mostly in the center.

20260803_190931.jpg20260803_193242.jpg

I got a more accurate measurement of the pushrods. Note I said "more". Not necessarily 'accurate', but really close at least. The measurements are written on the can of brake clean.
 
Comp has a set of 16 for about $190.

Pushrods, Magnum, Chromoly, Heat-Treated, 3/8 in. Diameter, 7.750/8.700in. Length

Or I can get Howards in sets of 8

Exhaust can be 7.600, 7.650, 7.700, or 7.750

Intake can be 8.600, 8.650, or 8.680 off the shelf.

Those are about $110 a set of 8, so $220 total.

Those are both 1 piece chrome moly .080 swedged end pushrods.

Or I can get you the 3 piece ball end models for about $75, 7.640"/8.600" Howards or 7.725"/8.684" Comp.

I always use the 1 piece, I feel its cheap insurance, but if you are using stock stamped rockers you already have that risk of splitting.

Make sure they don't bind up and the rocker slot is long enough, and be careful you don't use both self aligning rockers and guideplates at the same time or that will cause premature failure.

Let me know if you want any of these.
 
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