CK5
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Think my 6.0 is trashed

Drove it! A/C belt is still off, no front driveshaft and no inspection cover. No weird noises and drives fine. It's just hard to believe a bad idler/tensioner/bearing/compressor could cause that rhythmic knocking sound. The weird squealing noise from my 2nd video, yes. Will it come back? Did I have a foreign object lodged somewhere? Will find out as I keep giving this rig some attention.
 
Glad its getting narrowed down.

Cellphone inspection cameras are cheep and well worth the money.:waytogo:
 
Arizona or Ann Arbor - either way it's sold as-is. In a way, this worked out quite well. The road trip was problem-free and I haven't sold another car yet, so I was able to look at it "at my convenience" in my own shop (also, the weather was warm!). Not sure what I would have done if it started doing this in Pennsylvania. You could argue that best case was it happening at the test drive, but if this rig works out well for me long-term, things have still gone well.

If you look at the price of a clean rig from a warm state vs. a clean rig up here, the difference might actually cover the cost of a nightmare scenario of leaving your new rig at a who-knows-where shop and flying home. I was looking for something pretty rare, so had to accept more risk, IMO. Having a second vehicle felt more secure, but at a greater distance driving becomes unreasonable.
 
The misfire issue may be due to not having a torque converter attached. I believe the misfire algorithm assumes a certain inertia for the driveline, and having no converter / trans there will mess up that assumption.

Glad you tracked it down!

-Rob
 
True, it is based on crank position and calculated acceleration from each combustion event. "Misfire Count Current" had been in the teens before that with CEL illuminated. After I hooked the TC back up, the misfires at idle were still there, but low single digits and no CEL. A "misfire" logged by the PCM isn't always a real misfire, like no spark, but just not a good combustion. But hey, it's all small potatoes compared to rod knock.
 
The AC compressor belt and tensioner are often overlooked and since they sit low they often get hit with road debris, water, dirt, etc.
 
May want to check your idle air valve for the surging/idle issues. Had an acquaintanc and his idle air valve was causing all sorts of surging and rough idle issues. We pulled the throttle body off and cleaned the idle air valve up and it cured those problems. Granted that couldn't be the source of your other problems, just thought I would throw that info out there.
 
Worth wondering but was the AC working (blowing cold) before you disconnected everything? Maybe its the compressor? They can make a lot of noise when the inside gets plowed..
 
my A/C tensioner froze up and broke the belt as well a few years ago...easy to change.
 
May want to check your idle air valve for the surging/idle issues.
There isn't one - it's drive by wire.
Worth wondering but was the AC working (blowing cold) before you disconnected everything? Maybe its the compressor? They can make a lot of noise when the inside gets plowed..
A/C was working and sweating the lines. I did notice a strange sound during the test drive which I've since attributed to belt slip. The tensioner for the A/C belt (A/C has it's own tiny serpentine belt) developed some strange friction where it doesn't always apply tension, but sticks in place. Also, the tensioner pulley bearing doesn't feel scratchy by hand, but is loose enough to move rock side to side a bit. I have a new tensioner, pulley and belt on the way. I've been moving the trailer around the yard with this rig recently and it has been running fine (no tensioner or A/C belt installed).
 
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