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Thinking of doing the unthinkable... *Rotor to cap gap. Normal?*

Just for fun i went and logged a little more data today sense i have been learning up on stuff. Here is the whole big dang logg! And i took a few stupid videos too... We'll see how those turn out...
 

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Yes very rich! I still cant get TP to listen to the truck. All i can get to work is winaldl. i think its the com port. In winaldl i have to have it on com4. I cant figure out how to change that in TP. I'll work on e mailing you the file.
 
How should i e mail you the file? As an attachment? What format? The way it has worked for me is to download the zipped file and then unzip it in winzip and then right click, open with excel.

EDIT: also, pay no attention to the TPS readings being negative. Thats a product of winaldl. It lets you set the 0% value in volts. Mine is set differently then the 0% value, hence the negative numbers. I also noticed that at one point in my data log as i am sitting with it in gear idling, my INT number goes all the way down to 81!


MORE EDIT: On the bright side of things, i think i have read so much about all this stuff that i could very well start adjusting my VE tables now! This way, when i get my chip burning stuff, all i gotta do is load the program into the chip and see if it runs!
 
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Here is a few more super duper boring videos. Its just for fun. Pretty much just filming the way it runs as i dick with it.



In this one "12* advance is with the bypass wire disconnected. with it connected, it would run around 25* or so ish at idle.

 
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Mail it however the program saved it. Oh WinALD... no wonder I couldn't open it in TP. Look in WinALDL when you record and turn off raw data and flag datra the data will be easier to read

I think the Super ADX file I told you to get is corrupt!!! It would not work correctly for me today.

When I get your log, I will email you the last tested ADX update I used today!
 
So about the com port issue, will that no longer be an issue when i get the new ADX? Or will i still need to figure out how to change it?
 
Not sure, lots of people have issues with that. It likes COM3 or COM4. Set it up in preferences. Restart computer, restart TP see if it finds it. Move to another USB port, click inishilze. No start? Close TP. Go to devices and find it, click on it, then click on the COM3 setting. OK. Start TP, it should find the device.

If you were seeing data but wrong data, or dash was not working just use the ADX I send you and it will work. I had that super checked out on the bench but when I used it on a car it was a mess?
 
Just ordered up my chip burning stuff! Im guessing probably 5 days or so for arrival sense i did usps priority mail. We'll see.
 
Its funny to go from my last post ^^ to this one, Just got done burning a chip! Seems to have worked out as far as the chip burning process goes. Have to wait until tomorrow to actually start it being as its 2:40am now. Im sure that my first attempt on the chip tune is going to be way off, but at least it wil be a start.
 
Pic of the degree wheel,

IMAG0259-1.jpg
 
I'm sure doing it won't be a problem. What I'm really nervous about is if it comes up right on spec... Then i have to keep on diagnosing. If It's not the valve timing, I'm going to have to go with internally cracked intake manifold.
 
Made a little progress on the cam degree stuff today. Pics and vids to come. Got as far as finding TDC and ran out of time.
 
First off, the plugs form today. Very strange... I got a lot to deal with still on this thing.

IMAG0266.jpg


IMAG0267.jpg


IMAG0268.jpg


And the degree wheel.

IMAG0272.jpg


And the indicator set up on the number one intake rocker.

IMAG0279.jpg
 
Its going to be too hard to measure off of that because it's a curved surface that pivots, I would move the indicator over to the top of the valve retainer for more accurate results, keeping it parallel with the valve stem. Also, with the hydraulic lifters you may have issues with the plunger giving you false readings. You may have to tighten the rocker down a little at a time with the indicator on the valve retainer until it moves, then move it back so it's exactly at zero with the lifter in the closed position. This should preload lifter and reduce that chance. You are talking thousands of an inch makes a large measurement difference since the crank turns twice as fast as the cam, so you have to be very critical with this. Just be sure to readjust the rocker back to normal when you are done, before you run the engine.

Also, where is your wire pointer for the wheel? You can make one of a coat hanger that you can bend to zero after you set it to true TDC.

One other thing, once you find true TDC for number one, make a new mark on your timing tab if it's not dead on, I find many times they are a couple degrees off.
 
Yup, he's done this before! but how would you find true TDC with heads on?

One other tip is remove rocker and set up dial indicater in oil hole of push rod. Even with hydralic lifters the push rod alone should have no varible just pushing a dial indicator.

Looking at your plugs... I think... you have... a vacuum leak... :whistle:

Something is not right, even if your valve timing was off plugs would read the same, or at least close!

Remind me, your compression test was all equal? Vacuum reading was steady? Not jumpy?
 
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