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Third Party Proportioning Valve

Bowtiek10

1/2 ton status
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Jul 8, 2015
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Ok,

I tore out my oe brake lines and proportioning valve before repainting my frame when I started my project. Regardless, and due to my lack of better judgement, I went and bought a new brass prop valve from somewhere off ebay and stainless lines from LMC. After cranking everything down like a crazy, I still have a leak at where the line from the master meets the prop valve, the one that is at a 45 degree angle. From my research prior to posting, I found that this prop valve is a very used part in GM vehicles and some jeeps. I also found that some say that they are "chinese quality" and don't compare to oe quality, making my leak look typical. What do you guys think? Those who have done a rework on their brake system, what have you chosen for the prop valve? I don't want to delete mine, and for reference I'm running 1/2 ton gear, Dana 44 front w/ disc, 12 bolt rear w/ drums.

Thanks guys
 
Check the line for a crack at the seat. Try changing line and see if the leak says the same or moves with the line.
 
read some guys have problems sealing stainless steel line kits . there is a kit to add to each flair end to give it a soft seal . kind of like a copper washer on other fittings . just dont recall the thread i saw it in .
 
read some guys have problems sealing stainless steel line kits . there is a kit to add to each flair end to give it a soft seal . kind of like a copper washer on other fittings . just dont recall the thread i saw it in .
Sorry for late reply

Would you call this a double flare? I believe they have a tool kit you can rent to double flare lines at auto parts stores
 
our trucks are double flair already .

the part I am talking about is a extra add in part I read about someone found and used .
 
I ordered a Right Stuff Detailing prop valve to replace my no-brand valve. Gave each fitting a dosage of motor oil after threading them in, ignorantly cranked them down hard, repeated steps... No leaks
 
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