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This 6.2 is running perfect read page 4

Ronnie4wd

Ronnie4wd

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I'm looking for a 6.2 or 6.5 engine for my 76 and found this one for a reasonable price.
The owner says it's from a 1990 G30 van and it's a 6.5 diesel with th400.
Is it possible to tell from these pics and does it fit in my 76 K20 sm465.
And yes I'm keeping the 465.
The 400 can be sold to get some money back I hope.
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They are physically the same engine,just different bores. Unless it's a replacement engine it would be a 6.2 in 1990. The last 6.2s and first 6.5s share the same casting suffix "589".
 
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to be 100% sure find the two casting numbers on the back top corners of the engine block, right in front of the bell housing. on the drivers side of the is the family casting numbers. on the drivers side is the mouth, date, and year it was cast. get me those two numbers and i cast tell u was it is with out a doute.

its defently out of a van the trans dip stick give it away and the oil filler tube. u will need to change out the trans dip stick and the oil fill tub to the truck style, they willnt clear the hood when its closed.

yes the sm465 will work behind that 6.2, but dont use the newer needle bearing style use the older brass bushing style for the input support / bearing that goes in side the tail of the crank. u will also need to replace ur thermistat housing / cross over tub, for the truck style one, and posibley the intake. but all these parts are very ease to round up. u can rob them off of any cucv engine or m1008 / m1009. pertty much any u.s. army base should have these parts just lieing around in there scrap engine pile over there.

u may have to get a wiring harness for a late model truck tho. i have put van 6.2s in to trucks before but i usally find a late model wiring harness, guages, and gauge bezel to use too. but if nessary u could use ur stock 77 wiring harness tho, using half the engine side and the rest of the diesel side. theres a few little sensers and so on that help the engine start easer when its cold out but, like the cold start advace switch that located on the passenger side rear port on the side of the head, and the temp senders on the drivers side front head corner. oil pressure sender is the same stlye contecter as ur 77 wiring harness. mainly just if u use the 77 wiring harness then stick with the 77 temp sender and oil sender on the 6.2. so that way ur gauges will read correctly. theres really only a couple wires u need to keep to make the 6.2 work with ur 77 wiring harness and i would be glad to help u sort threw those over the phone once u where where ready to start hooking every thing up. if u have any other questions just drop me a pm.

P.S. ditch the factory glow plug controler and replace it with a ford start silenoid with a push butten style switch. much more reliable and simpler set up. and u can disect the vans wiring harness to keep the factory wiring harness part of the glow plug wires.
 
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Numbers on the back top corners of the engine block, right in front of the bell housing is
Drivers side 1402266 and maybe a 0
Other side B080
And I bought it anyway bc I think the 6.2 would be a lot better than the 4.236 perkins who is knocking a little to much.
 
to bad ur not in the u.s. i would buy the perkins from u. give me a day or two and ill dig up the code books i have to decode what u have.
 
I would vote 6.2 unless it's a replacement long block. Not 100% sure that 6.5's were even available in '90? Also never seen a factory 6.5 with v-belts.

My '90 K5 with the factory 6.2 has v-belts, but I do realize this is a van and might be different.
 
We will se what indy4x4fab can get out of the numbers.
Anyway did put the flywheel (thanks kennyw) and the clutch on it and got rid of some wiring too,pics are coming soon.
Hopefully it's going in the truck sometime this weekend.
 
I did put it in the truck this weekend but can't get it running.
Diesel is coming to the injectionpump but not to the injectors.
I opened the lines to the injectors and no diesel.
The return line from the ip was dry at first but after some trying I got some fuel that way but I don't think it is as much as it should be.
The engine has been out of the van for about three years sitting in a garage.
So I guess there are some things growing inside the ip :dunno:
 
Indy4x4Fab said:
to bad ur not in the u.s. i would buy the perkins from u. give me a day or two and ill dig up the code books i have to decode what u have.
Click to expand...

You wouldn't really like the 4.236
It's a N/A 236 ci diesel not enough power other than farm equipment or gen set.
As for the engine it's a 6.2
I doubt it's the later model 599 block, I believe the 599 blocks came along in 92.
It's still a 6.2 diesel which would be better than your puny perkins.:thumb:
By the way was your perkins in the chevy?
Do you have the bellhousing still?
 
it may take u a little while of cranking on it. it has take us some times up to eight hours of combined bleading, cranking, charging and doing it all over again. do u know when the last time the engine ran was? if it is like a couple 6.2s i have rebuilt, and then they sit for a few years, the rings may be stuck to the pistons, dont freak out yet theres hope yet. pull the glow plugs out, spray some penitating oil in to each cyclender then let it sit for a day. crank with the glow plugs still removed, and repeat three times. then spray a light amount od oil in to each cyclender put the glow plugs back in and crank it may take a couple cranks before it starts trying to start. u can also put raw propane in to the in take while u crank and it should help start the engine easer. DONT USE STARTING FLUID ITS THE BAD. if u still are having problems pm me and we can go frome there, make sure both termanls on top of the ip pump have power to them. and also dont forget to cycle the glow plugs in between cranks.
 
Ronnie4wd said:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=269317
Here is some more info on the truck.
The bellhousing is the GM one with an adapterplate pics are coming someday.
Now I just want to get the engine running.
Click to expand...
I have the big brother of that engine, the T6.358 5.8 litre turbo diesel, just wanted to see if the belhousing they used is the same, I also have it with 465/205.
Did they use the pump on the side of the engine for vacuum or for air?
On my K5 they used it for vacuum to use for the brakes, but I want to see if it can be used from the other side for air.
It looks almost exactly like mine minus the extra 2 cylinders and the turbo.
I also have a manual for those engines in case you need anything let me know.
 
As stated above, make sure you have power going to the fuel cut-off solenoid at the IP and that the solenoid is actually working and not stuck.
 
Yes the fuel cut-off solenoid is working but under the lid of the ip there is a little thing who has a spring that should move when you put power to the solenoid and that thing was stuck real bad but after some pursuation I got it moving put it together and started the truck :D
Running good and no bad sounds :laugh:
So now I have to get a radiator and some other stuff so I can DD this one instead of the little French :eek1: car I borrowed from my dad.
 
put a quart of 30w motor oil in each tank of fuel before u fill it up all the way and the extra, lube the 30w will help prevent that from happening again.
 
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