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This was weird

Chevy305

Chevy305

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Yeah so I was driving to work this morning when the guy driving in front of me stopped short at a red light, so I hit the brakes too. I thought I didn't hit them hard enough to lock up the brakes but it felt like the rear locked up on me. So then as I am trying to stop I hear a ton of popping and banging. So when the light turned green, I hit the gas and the engine just reved. So I thought I broke an axel shaft or something, so with people honking behind me, I looked under the truck to find out that my driveshaft had come off the tailshaft of the t-case and it was still securely fastened to the differential. :eek1: So, luckly I had my tools with me and I unbolted the driveshaft in the middle of traffic and I drove back home in 4 wheel drive.

This one has me a little stumped :confused: , how did this happen? Does axel wrap happen when braking too? because I didn't think it did. Also now since the driveshaft is out I thought I'd replace the u-joints, and I have never done that before and Hilton's repair manual is only for a different type of u-joint and is no help any way. So how do I get the old one out and the new one in?
 
I would guess there still a certain amount of strain on the drive train when braking, not near as much but maybe your driveshaft was ready to let go and thats all it took.
 
What are the specs on your rig?

It sounds like your driveshaft is maybe a little too short for your setup. When you slammed on the brakes the front of the axle turned down and the rear of your truck came up. With the pinion turning down, and the rest of the truck coming up the slip yoke came out.

If this doesn't make sense I can try to break it down some more. :D

Rick
 
Well my truck is a 85 K10 with a 4 inch lift and 3 inch body lift, stock drive shaft. The lift is from 4in blocks in the rear. I have the 465 and I believe a NP-208.

Surely you guys must know how to replace your u-joints. Can you guys help?
 
Definately sounds like time to lengthen a driveshaft. Rick88blaze explained it pretty well. rear axle is on the ground and braking causing pinion to rotate toward the ground while body and chassis are leaning to front with nose down rear up from braking which essentially increased the distance between pinion and t-case and since driveshaft wasn't modified when the vehicle was lifted it fall down.

Tough break in traffic but better than at an inoppurtune time on the trail.
 
to help out a fellow masshole :D

my favorite tools for U-joints are a good ball-joint press and a vise( to hold the balljoint press while tightening). although, if you just had the vise it can be done, too. remove snap rings and either press out the u-joint with an appropriate socket or piece of tubing or pound it out with a hammer. then to install the new u-joint the caps will need to be pressed into the yoke(s) with a shop press, vise, or ball joint press. then install new snap rings give each yoke a whack with a hammer in each direction to fully seat it against the snap ring and you're good to go.

btw just out of curiosity, what part of mass?
 
you might have snapped the centering pin on one of your blocks so when you hit the brakes the axle slides back a bit and pulls the shaft out of the tcase i had a 86 pickup this happened on
 
Drive torque causes axle wrap that we are all familiar with. Brake torque (which in most cases is stronger that drive torque) also causes axle wrap in the opposite direction.
 
Thanks for the help so far. I replaced the u-joints this morning. I inspected everything very carfully before driving it and the problem I am having is that both rear leaf springs broke. They broke at the eye on the spring towards the front of the truck. Not to mention I found some rot on the driver side spring hanger. So I also looked at the front springs too and the passenger side broke just like the rear springs and the driver side has a crack in it. :eek1: :eek1: :eek1:

Golly Gee, I think its time to replace my leaf springs. Not to mention the bushings are all totally gone. So I think I want to get rid of my blocks in the rear to reduce axel rap. So I will need new 4in lift springs all around. What are your recomendations for springs? I will replace all the rubber bushings with poly urithane ones. So I just need springs.

My poor truck:truck:

Edit: Can I keep my shocks? They are Rancho RS 5000
 
Chevy305 said:
Thanks for the help so far. I replaced the u-joints this morning. I inspected everything very carfully before driving it and the problem I am having is that both rear leaf springs broke. They broke at the eye on the spring towards the front of the truck. Not to mention I found some rot on the driver side spring hanger. So I also looked at the front springs too and the passenger side broke just like the rear springs and the driver side has a crack in it. :eek1: :eek1: :eek1:

Golly Gee, I think its time to replace my leaf springs. Not to mention the bushings are all totally gone. So I think I want to get rid of my blocks in the rear to reduce axel rap. So I will need new 4in lift springs all around. What are your recomendations for springs? I will replace all the rubber bushings with poly urithane ones. So I just need springs.

My poor truck:truck:
Click to expand...
I would suggest BDS springs. If they ever crack like that in the future, there is a no questions asked lifetime warranty on them. They flex and ride well too.
-Harrison
 
After reading the review of the Tuff Country Ez-Ride springs on CK5, I thought I'd order those. So I ordered a 4in lift kit from them with 52in springs and includes the rear springs. Unfortunately since springs are heavy it will take nearly a week to get them, so I guess I'll be bumin rides off people till I can get them tucked under my truck. Maybe to save time I'll start the dissasmbly durring the week.
Also do you guys think I went with the right lift kit?
 
I just realized that I will be saving a weeks worth of gas!

But kinda a mute point after buying a lift kit.
 
So, a little update, The springs should be in on Tuesday and this weekend I will dismantle the rear suspention. Should I have gotten new shocks, or are my old Rancho RS5000s still good for a different lift?

Also I have to replace one of my spring hangers. Its the rear driver side one thats right up against the gas tank. How do I replace it? It looks like it is rivited to the frame. Can I cut it off then weld on a new one? I've never done such frame work so could you fill me in on it.
 
Would welding be any stronger than bolts? grade 8 bolts that is
 
what a mess

That sounds very close to what I experienced. I had to lock the brakes up, car in front of me stopped short, and then a few miles down the road, the transmission popped, also i have noticed brake fluid loss in the rear, and my damn parking brake broke. possibly it was just the jolt needed for already weak parts. Any way, I am going to the country this weekend to get started on this mess. Good luck to you and god only knows what I am going to find this weekend.:hack: :k5:
 
So today, as I was dismantling the rear suspention, I found out that the shocks are totally gone. So I will order a new set of RS5000s when I'm finished posting this.

My only other question is that I know that if you put poly urithane bushings in the freezer for a while they are easier to install, but what kind of grease do I want to use on them?
 
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