Not to hijack, but the question got raised...do any of you guys use any kind of undercoat on the underside...other than paint?
CK5
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Those with Frame Off Builds
- Thread starter mattrains
- Start date
i like 3M's 08883 on top of scuffed paint
Same here as Ryoken mentioned, I'm basically a mechanic for a living, have 5000sq ft of shop space, tools, etc... everything that it takes to do a big project quickly and efficiently.
I used a product called "rust ender," it's basically like rust bullet, I sprayed it on with a gun, to my freshly steamed/power washed chassis/axles/suspension, and it goes on with a milky like substance and after a few minutes it dries hard and turns flat black. It is supposed to oxidize any rust and seal it off. After that coating dried for 24hrs, I sprayed on a couple coats of rustoleum gloss black. As simple as that.
Should stay shiny black for years to come since I don't drive it in the rain.
mattrains
MRAINS
Did you rent your steamer or have one already? Where did you get it, I like this option. Much cleaner and easier than pressure washing or sand blasting.
I used a product called "rust ender," it's basically like rust bullet, I sprayed it on with a gun, to my freshly steamed/power washed chassis/axles/suspension, and it goes on with a milky like substance and after a few minutes it dries hard and turns flat black. It is supposed to oxidize any rust and seal it off. After that coating dried for 24hrs, I sprayed on a couple coats of rustoleum gloss black. As simple as that.
Have one.
I think someone mentioned already, something like a Hotsy is available at most rental yards. Even a big power washer can get it done, like a 4g/4000psi unit, not those little tiny 5HP ones.
For the record, I wasn't talking about a rental steamer... too much PSI and you are likely to do a lot of damage to paint and wiring if you're not careful.
I was referring to a place that does LOW pressure steam. You drive there, they put the truck on a lift and do the whole underside with a special setup (big boiler for the water, some sort of mild detergent, etc). The guy suits up to keep the crud off him while he works.
Basically the steam does the work, not the pressure. I don't know how hard it would be to find this sort of shop in your area...when I lived in San Jose, there was a local shop that did it for around $100. It was money well spent.... every bolt underneath was clean, and it made the process SO much nicer and cleaner when it came time to work on anything. (This was NOT my K5, so don't use those photos as a reference!)
-G
mattrains
MRAINS
This is EXACTLY what I wanted to do. I'll check around. I don't want to much pressure for the exact reasons you said already.
For the record, I wasn't talking about a rental steamer... too much PSI and you are likely to do a lot of damage to paint and wiring if you're not careful.
I was referring to a place that does LOW pressure steam. You drive there, they put the truck on a lift and do the whole underside with a special setup (big boiler for the water, some sort of mild detergent, etc). The guy suits up to keep the crud off him while he works.
Basically the steam does the work, not the pressure. I don't know how hard it would be to find this sort of shop in your area...when I lived in San Jose, there was a local shop that did it for around $100. It was money well spent.... every bolt underneath was clean, and it made the process SO much nicer and cleaner when it came time to work on anything. (This was NOT my K5, so don't use those photos as a reference!)
-G
If you don't find anything (like I didn't) there is a Hotsy that is only 1000 psi but the water is still 240 degrees
Here is something I don't understand...if the water is heated to 240 degrees, that is 28 degrees above boiling...meaning steam...whats the difference between that and steam...the pressurized water?
I'm good with the high pressure water because I'm not worried about paint or wire, but the pure steam would be awesome....especially if somebody else did it!
Gregs idea definitely sounds like the way to go, especially for that price
I will say though, I rent a steam power washer rig from a local rental company about once a year or so to do a annual clean up and repaint on all of our equipment (skid loaders and Brokks which are, electric -remote controlled mini excavators). On the unit I rent , it includes multiple nozzles with different patterns and it has an adjustable pressure regulator , I steam the entire machines, engines, both electric and diesel and undercarriages , all fluid lines etc, will no ill affects, and it will cut right through a years worth of nasty concrete dust encrusted grease without taking off any paint. I'm sure if you cranked up the pressure it could strip the paint right off, but thats why I use the adjustable unit.
I recommend it, but realize it is a big job....there is only 10 bolts holding it on the frame, plus bumpers, linkage, wiring etc.
You will need about 2-3 vehicle sized bays to do it. Lifting the body is probably a 1500-2000 lb move when the body is just a shell, so plan accordingly, and having the overhead height to lift it needs to be considered too.
For me, the access to the frame components without constantly crawling under the vehicle is worth the effort to remove it, but then I planned on boxing my frame when I decided to start my build.
Before you start, take a bucket full of pics for reference, tag most every wire where it goes (some wires will only go in one location by the plug used), and have a bunch of boxes to put different bolts and parts in as you remove them. When you take a bolt like a body bolt off, take it off then put it back together in the sequence it came off. this will make your re-assembly much less brain racking.
Don't forget there is a bunch of knowledge here to rely on too!
You will need about 2-3 vehicle sized bays to do it. Lifting the body is probably a 1500-2000 lb move when the body is just a shell, so plan accordingly, and having the overhead height to lift it needs to be considered too.
For me, the access to the frame components without constantly crawling under the vehicle is worth the effort to remove it, but then I planned on boxing my frame when I decided to start my build.
Before you start, take a bucket full of pics for reference, tag most every wire where it goes (some wires will only go in one location by the plug used), and have a bunch of boxes to put different bolts and parts in as you remove them. When you take a bolt like a body bolt off, take it off then put it back together in the sequence it came off. this will make your re-assembly much less brain racking.
Don't forget there is a bunch of knowledge here to rely on too!
Timotheus
Registered Member
hmmm im considering buying a second frame, sand blasting it, boxing it, steering box brace, 52" front springs and paint. Then swap over from the blazer that stayed running.
Timotheus
Registered Member
haha "if" is such a big word. Thats the point though... while I buy and build the frame the way I want it I can still drive and do other minor mods. Seen frames on CL for $200.
rampage
3/4 ton status
How would you go about handling the mismatched vin numbers on the frame and body?
the vin on the cowl is the one that matters. That is how people can build custom frames/tube frames and still be legal.
it might vary by state too. something tells me CA would be more restrictive than most.
of course, it also all depends on what you plan to do with it. I know I've never seen an inspector look anywhere but the cowl for a VIN, and tbh, I've never looked anywhere else when buying a vehicle either (probably will now though
)if you kept your mouth shut about switching frames, I doubt anyone would ever notice, or care.
Desert Rat
Fetch the comfy chair
I didn't read every reply in the thread so some of my comments will be redundant. I did a body off project that used two 74 Blazers and both went all the way down to the bare frame. When I did mine, I built two A-frame supports that I put heavy duty casters on so I could roll the body around the side yard. I removed the entire front end first, then unbolted all the body bolts and worked long 2x6 boards in between the frame and body. I jacked the body up little by little and when it was far enough off the frame using stacked boards, I put my A-frames under the body. I then rolled the body off the frame. I ended up making a sand blasting booth in my garage using heavy plastic sheeting, some cheap fans for venting, and tarps on the floor to catch the sand, which I re-used over and over. I then welded up all the bad spots including adding the steering gear bracing. I POR-15'ed the entire frame front to back. I replaced all the body bushings with poly and put the whole truck back together.
Here are some bullet points the will support previously made comments and maybe some new ones:
1. You will spend five times as much money and time as you thought you would.
2. You will end up replacing parts that you probably would never have paid attention to had you not gone that deep into the project.
3. You will be without a vehicle for longer than you planned.
4. You will beef up existing parts while you are at it just because you can.
5. You will learn how to do things you never imagined doing because you will be forced to.
6. You will wish you bought a nicer rig to begin with so you didn't have to do as much work.
7. When it is done, you will wonder if the truck is now too nice to wheel.
8. Eventually you might sell your rig for far less than you put into it and then wonder why in the hell you spent so much money.
9. If you don't have a shop, you will be investing in either a portable tarp covered RV type bolt together storage unit or constantly be putting tarps held down with bricks over your disassembled rig.
10. If you have a wife or girlfriend, you better be prepared to do a lot of ass kissing.
When I get home, I will see if I can throw some pics back into my albums of the work I did so you can see it.
Here are some bullet points the will support previously made comments and maybe some new ones:
1. You will spend five times as much money and time as you thought you would.
2. You will end up replacing parts that you probably would never have paid attention to had you not gone that deep into the project.
3. You will be without a vehicle for longer than you planned.
4. You will beef up existing parts while you are at it just because you can.
5. You will learn how to do things you never imagined doing because you will be forced to.
6. You will wish you bought a nicer rig to begin with so you didn't have to do as much work.
7. When it is done, you will wonder if the truck is now too nice to wheel.
8. Eventually you might sell your rig for far less than you put into it and then wonder why in the hell you spent so much money.
9. If you don't have a shop, you will be investing in either a portable tarp covered RV type bolt together storage unit or constantly be putting tarps held down with bricks over your disassembled rig.
10. If you have a wife or girlfriend, you better be prepared to do a lot of ass kissing.
When I get home, I will see if I can throw some pics back into my albums of the work I did so you can see it.
Desert Rat
Fetch the comfy chair
it might vary by state too. something tells me CA would be more restrictive than most.
of course, it also all depends on what you plan to do with it. I know I've never seen an inspector look anywhere but the cowl for a VIN, and tbh, I've never looked anywhere else when buying a vehicle either (probably will now though
if you kept your mouth shut about switching frames, I doubt anyone would ever notice, or care.
In California technically the frame is the one that matters, not the body. From a practical perspective, that isn't true. Having done many VIN verifications, I can say that most cops just check the VIN plate on the dash and on the door panel if it is there and that is it. On my 74 Blazers the numbers on the frame had nothing to do with the VIN numbers. On newer rigs the VIN is stamped on the frame and can be found on several other places on a rig. The CHP and Auto Theft units love to dig into these types of mods because lots of people who steal cars swap VINs and rarely find all of them.
Unless you do enough obnoxious blatant mods or drive like a moron that cause the police to constantly be scrutinizing you, nobody is going to pay that much attention. At least in Ca. anyway. Some states have meticulous vehicle inspections and that is another story.
I went through the vin thing with mine. The frame was replaced at one time, so it is different than the body. The body had a repaint at one time, so the vin/gvw plate was removed from the door pillar. The only Vin I had for the body was the one that was on the build sticker in the glovebox.
The local sherriff deputy came out and looked at the truck took both Vin's; body and frame and run them both on the SCMODS (state county municipal offender data system
) and they both came up with no theft claims on them. He said 99% of the time, if you give them a proof of insurance, and a registration that will be the end of it. I carry the Vin sticker and a previous owners statement of what had went on with the body/frame change, to support my situation if they were to dig any deeper than that.
The local sherriff deputy came out and looked at the truck took both Vin's; body and frame and run them both on the SCMODS (state county municipal offender data system
) and they both came up with no theft claims on them. He said 99% of the time, if you give them a proof of insurance, and a registration that will be the end of it. I carry the Vin sticker and a previous owners statement of what had went on with the body/frame change, to support my situation if they were to dig any deeper than that.
