CK5
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Thoughts on the 14SF?

The best answer is a Detroit or an ARB (if you don't mind the ARB problems).
What issues are you referring to?
I've had several ARB units. The one that failed was given a hero's burial for the amount of abuse it received before the cross pin broke
 
What issues are you referring to?
I've had several ARB units. The one that failed was given a hero's burial for the amount of abuse it received before the cross pin broke

The only "problems" I see with them is they like to leak in daily driver trucks. Seems like 30,000 miles is as far as they like to go before they have to be resealed. Complete outright failures are rare on the newer timed gear units.
 
The only "problems" I see with them is they like to leak in daily driver trucks. Seems like 30,000 miles is as far as they like to go before they have to be resealed. Complete outright failures are rare on the newer timed gear units.
Good to know
 
Any of you guys ever ran a Lockrite in one? ARB is too expensive for my blood.
I ran a lock rite in mine for atleast 5 years with 4.56 gears and 35s and then 2 years on 38s with no issues. Worked great off road and I never had any complaints when I daily drove the truck.
 
From what I've seen the week link is the pinion bearings, but that's on high mileage units.
 
You guys are bad influences.. I have one of deez in the Deezul, if it lives behind a dmax Taho I ain't changing mine. That means it'll never break in front of a 6.2 diesel..
 
So I have to ask , have any of you thought that maybe these could carry a little more oil?
I ask because I just installed one out of a '93 in my Jimmy. I'm probably over thinking it, but it just seems like the oil fill is kinda low on the housing.
I know old log truck drivers used to extend the fillers on their axles to carry more oil. I thought about using the spare cover and welding in a bung.

Sorry if this is TOO much of a high-jack.
 
It's a pertinent question.
The failure point being the pinion bearing would suggest that in lower mileage failures.
I'm gonna make sure mine is high since the yoke is rolled upward
 
I lifted the truck up and set the right tire on a 8" tall block, then let it down, but couldn't get any more oil in after filling it while level.
 
I hate to be the downer but around here that is kinda expensive... After you put it back together its still more than 14BFFs go for around here, unless of course you are trying to stay 6 lug. I guess if you were going to do a disc brake conversion anyway it could make sense.
 
SF is the perfect solution for an upgrade for a 1/2 ton.
No new rims and possible tires.
No converting the front to 8 lug.
That all cost money.
No need to drag around a FF as in my case that I do not need.
All depends and relative to.
 
FF are great for busting rocks
Kinda done with that
 
40 bucks is less than you'd get for scrap almost. Well worth it and much stronger than th average 1/2 ton stuff.
 
Well I already have a set of tons, I was just curious about the SF axle. I've heard good things about it. I'm currently in the process of putting my 1 tons under after I get a few parts for the suspension. I saw that SF axle pop up on my local craigslist and I like the clearance aspect of it over the FF. I plan on removing the lip on the bottom of my FF axle so it's flush with the bottom of the diff cover and smoothing things over real nice with a flapper wheel to gain a little more clearance and slideability.
 
Just keep an eye on it. I had to start using header bolts because the regular bolt heads would wear off. And I still drug that pig over everything
 
I think the pinion bearings go because that is one long ass driveshaft that weighs a lot riding on those tiny pinion bearings.

I had the "hybrid" 9.5" axle in my L76/6L80e half ton and I have the same axle in my L86/8L90e half ton. Never been nice to it and if GM is willing to put one with a grenade-lock behind 420hp and an 8 speed...
 
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