Any plans to beef up the passenger knuckle to combat the extra forces generated by adding crossover to that instead of a traditional arm?
CK5
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Three Day 3link
- Thread starter sreidmx
- Start date
@Mr.Clean Thank you for the feedback. I completely agree that our website is lacking in a pretty bad way right now. We haven't had much time to finish setting it up properly. We've only officially been in business for 30 days, and between our day jobs, families, personal trucks, and fulfilling our first order for @bergerking, it just hasn't been our first priority.
I've probably spent another 20 to 25 hours sitting at my computer the last 2 weeks tweaking things we learned on this build. We've modified or trackbar mounting to push the trackbar forward another 1/4", to clear thicker flanges of welded diff covers, trying to squeeze the last 1/2" of uptravel out of it. We're also piloting a version of our towers with a narrower mounting width, to make for a shorter, stronger shock mounting bolt, increase engine bay clearance, and avoid the need for extra spacers.
I may end up having time this week, since I'm off work with a knee injury, I'll be pretty much chair bound.
So as a potential customer, what info would you like to see the website? I know more pictures would be good, and a more thorough description of exactly what you're getting. Anything else I could add? We're hoping to be able to break the pricing down into individual prices for each bracket, we'll be sure to add that in there. Maybe on the "kit" page we can list exactly what brackets come in it, and what the pricing would be if bought individually.
Once again, thanks for the feedback. Being the new guys in the block, we're definitely open to suggestions!
I've probably spent another 20 to 25 hours sitting at my computer the last 2 weeks tweaking things we learned on this build. We've modified or trackbar mounting to push the trackbar forward another 1/4", to clear thicker flanges of welded diff covers, trying to squeeze the last 1/2" of uptravel out of it. We're also piloting a version of our towers with a narrower mounting width, to make for a shorter, stronger shock mounting bolt, increase engine bay clearance, and avoid the need for extra spacers.
I may end up having time this week, since I'm off work with a knee injury, I'll be pretty much chair bound.
So as a potential customer, what info would you like to see the website? I know more pictures would be good, and a more thorough description of exactly what you're getting. Anything else I could add? We're hoping to be able to break the pricing down into individual prices for each bracket, we'll be sure to add that in there. Maybe on the "kit" page we can list exactly what brackets come in it, and what the pricing would be if bought individually.
Once again, thanks for the feedback. Being the new guys in the block, we're definitely open to suggestions!
Our website is still brand new and you are right it doesn't have all the information one may seek when browsing for this kit online. I'll try and get more info on there so people get these questions asked. The last thing we want is to turn someone away because of that.
At the time we put it up I didn't have pictures of the brackets to add. If you are following us on Instagram or have seen the dirty c build thread there is pics of the complete bracket set on there, also one thing I should point out is these are designed to ship in a flat rate box hence the flat plate vs bending etc. we were aiming to cater to a guy who has basic tools and a welder. Who wasn't looking for the craziest all out performance kit.
Having a Chevy just drive nicer is a huge plus, and that's the direction we went in, radius arms being what they are can be perfect for that scenario. They are not setup for a KOH race car or anything like that. Sure you can crawl it but there will be compromise just like anything else. We wanted "good" all around performance for a reasonable price with something most people can setup, understand, and maintain.
In regards to materials all the shock tower and axle stuff is 3/16ths and the frame brackets are 1/4in plate p&o steel plate.
The "kit" includes everything to get this onto a truck with the exception of brake lines and a steering box. And we can source both components should someone need those too.
So to break this down you'll get all the proper size grade 8 bolts, brackets designed to fit your truck based on parameters you give us, if you opt for tube then it will be 2x.250 for control arms and 1.5x.250 for the steering, track bar and tie rod. The heim joints are as follows 2 1.25 3/4 hole, 2 7/8 5/8 hole, 4 bushings 2 5/8, 7/8 heims for steering,2 7/8 3/4 heims for track bar with spacers. All kits include bump stops, limit straps, Pittman arm. Shock tower brace with 3 bolt flanges.
We also provide lifetime technical support, and stand behind out products, that's not a warranty but we're pretty reasonable guys and if something breaks because of a design flaw were gonna want to see it and will work out how to make it right. Your the welder so it's case by case.
There are options for shocks from Foa, FOX, King, swayaway, and finally Icon.
Were dealers for Ruffstuff, Kartek, 4Wheel Parts, and working on Eibach.
So if you need something we can likely get it. Pricing we will do our best, again were small so there will be times where we cannot compete with the higher volume retailers.
And lastly, any customers who buy a top kit with shocks tube etc will get a lifetime discount code, we haven't worked out the percentage yet but are working on making this possible. We want to take care of our customers who take care of us.
That's something we can investigate. I know the stock spindles definitely leave something to be desired... I'm not sure of much we could do except maybe trying to offer some gusseting of some kind. Another option we would have would be to accommodate a Reid racing style knuckle, and for those that don't want to use high steer, we could put the Heims in double shear between with the flat top.
Yah I just see one bad jump, and planting that right front and boom. The frame would probably give way/flex a little first. I have seen 44 knuckles snap on jeeps thats why I ask.
Excellent point, we will definitely look into it. For what it's worth, I've run my own truck into the side of a mountain going about 45 or 50, hard enough to rip my steering box off the frame, and the knuckle didn't care one bit, and it's set up the same way.
What are you bumped and strapped at for static travel in the front?
How much side to side does the axle move through travel with that much angle on the panhard and steering at ride height?
Just curious if that much shock length is even able to be used. I know ive read ord comments that 14" or so is as much as they like to push mechanical steering, and they are generally using an arm on top of the knuckle that gets the steering much more parallel to the ground.
How much side to side does the axle move through travel with that much angle on the panhard and steering at ride height?
Just curious if that much shock length is even able to be used. I know ive read ord comments that 14" or so is as much as they like to push mechanical steering, and they are generally using an arm on top of the knuckle that gets the steering much more parallel to the ground.
I'll address what @Deuling is asking,
We are using 13 inches of the 14 inches of the travel, we put straps at 1 inch less than the shock travel, obviously they stretch so keeping an eye on that is wise to do.
I know if we had someone wanting to go to a 16 inch shock that had no issues with cutting the oem engine crossmember out and making something that is really low profile to allow the axle to stuff in there would be the way to the most uptravel. The limiting factor here is where the trackbar and drag links are, ORD uses high steer which places them up farther limiting the uptravel. We place those links lower allowing us that extra few inches.
The other major limit is Heim angle becomes an issue past a certain point, the joints are only able to deflect (if I remember correctly) 34 degrees, so at complete metal on metal the drag link is touching the frame and full max droop at those angles you are looking at 17-18 inches steel to steel, and will break something. These are purely hypothetical and do not reflect all trucks and will likely not work when in 4wd unless you have a crazy long and high angle driveline. That all being said 13 inches is a ton of wheel travel and after driving these I find it hard to see a need for more travel when a better shock or bypass could be used to make use of what is there.
And to address the comments about single shear steering, this is and has been used by many many jeep guys, I think either tig welding some chromo plate or using a highsteer arm to double it up would help. I don't see that as a weak point as much as I see the sector being a much bigger problem. Which also happens to be single shear as well.
These are limitations we have to live in along with driving inside those zones..
We are using 13 inches of the 14 inches of the travel, we put straps at 1 inch less than the shock travel, obviously they stretch so keeping an eye on that is wise to do.
I know if we had someone wanting to go to a 16 inch shock that had no issues with cutting the oem engine crossmember out and making something that is really low profile to allow the axle to stuff in there would be the way to the most uptravel. The limiting factor here is where the trackbar and drag links are, ORD uses high steer which places them up farther limiting the uptravel. We place those links lower allowing us that extra few inches.
The other major limit is Heim angle becomes an issue past a certain point, the joints are only able to deflect (if I remember correctly) 34 degrees, so at complete metal on metal the drag link is touching the frame and full max droop at those angles you are looking at 17-18 inches steel to steel, and will break something. These are purely hypothetical and do not reflect all trucks and will likely not work when in 4wd unless you have a crazy long and high angle driveline. That all being said 13 inches is a ton of wheel travel and after driving these I find it hard to see a need for more travel when a better shock or bypass could be used to make use of what is there.
And to address the comments about single shear steering, this is and has been used by many many jeep guys, I think either tig welding some chromo plate or using a highsteer arm to double it up would help. I don't see that as a weak point as much as I see the sector being a much bigger problem. Which also happens to be single shear as well.
These are limitations we have to live in along with driving inside those zones..
The axle stuffs in there pretty tight. I don't remember the exact number, but it puts a 37 a couple inches away from the upper edge of the fender.
Side to side travel is typically 2.5" through the entire range of 14" of travel.
Side to side travel is typically 2.5" through the entire range of 14" of travel.
I was just curious if a 16" shock was necessary or if you could run a 14" and get the thing sitting a little lower.
We are running a 14" shock. We can run a lower ride height for sure if desired.
Dammit, I thought I saw 16" somewhere.
I think @sreidmx was saying that it would be possible to run a 16" shock, but it wouldn't be an easy task. Pretty much have to completely relocate the engine crossmember, depending on your drive line. In my case, my driveshaft limits my droop, because I have a very short SM465/205 drive line. Someone with a longer driveshaft might be able to get another inch of down travel on me, but steering joints will limit it pretty quickly. It would be possible to put some bends in the drag link to put the rod ends in a happier state, but they'd have to be strategically placed so as to not limit uptravel due to hitting the frame or oil pan.
You could run a 16 but that is max and would require lots of cutting on the fenders or fiberglass and really tall towers.
My whole thought process was on why would you have a 16" coilover in there.
So disregard most of that.
So disregard most of that.
We share the sentiments. It is way overkill..
@Mr.Clean, thanks again for pointing out our website issues. We've done a little update to it, and included a more comprehensive list of what the kits include. An even more detailed website is in the works, but I see that being a week or two out. We also noticed while reviewing that we had the wrong prices posted, all the prices posted were our pre-welded prices, which is a $150 option. Thanks again for the input, and check out the new fortifyoffroad.com!
Onlything I will add is I'm surprised you guys are able to post this up without a vendor membership. Teetering on a fine line.
I do like the work though and encourage it!
I do like the work though and encourage it!
I've actually been meaning to contact a Mod about that, wasn't sure if I got credit for having just renewed my membership a few months ago.... If not, I'll just eat the cost on it....
