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Throttle Cable/Throttle Sticking/Hard Pedal

76k5blazerr

76k5blazerr

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Alright guys I know some of this has been discussed on here before but I couldnt find answers to all my questions so here we go. As long as I have had my 76 blazer, after I put in a 350 from an 82 or 83 k10. The gas pedal has been hard to push and recently the throttle has started sticking more than usual, this was great yesterday on the highway, throttle got stuck at 65mph and I drove 30miles down the highway without touching the gas, I know, scary right? But anyway it was kinda nice on the highway but around town it's just downright dangerous. I'm almost positive it's the accelerator cable/throttle cable whatever you want to call it. I need to replace it and I'm asking yall where to get one that will fit right and work good. All the things I've read on here say that it's hard to find one from a parts store that fits right. Anybody know where I can get a good one without blowing out the old wallet? And if it matters I've got a 1406 edelbrock carb.
 
Lokar "cut to fit" cable.
Nice and new. You can route it better than before too. Mine had a big loop in it when I bought it. When I went FAST EFI I replaced the cable with the Lokar unit and a straighter routing.

Until then, go to a local motorcycle dealership and pick up a cable lube-r. It clamps down around the end of the cable and allows you to use an aerosol cable lube to forcefully push into the cable and sheath. Tip, run lots of WD40 first to clean it out, then lube it.

If that doesn't help, the cable has probably chewed into the sheath and is garbage
 
K85 Octane said:
Lokar "cut to fit" cable.
Nice and new. You can route it better than before too. Mine had a big loop in it when I bought it. When I went FAST EFI I replaced the cable with the Lokar unit and a straighter routing.

Until then, go to a local motorcycle dealership and pick up a cable lube-r. It clamps down around the end of the cable and allows you to use an aerosol cable lube to forcefully push into the cable and sheath. Tip, run lots of WD40 first to clean it out, then lube it.

If that doesn't help, the cable has probably chewed into the sheath and is garbage
Click to expand...

I noticed that about my Throttle Cable the other day....the big loop when it comes out of the firewall. Mine sticks a bit when I left off the accelerator at about 1200 rpms....I just lift the pedal up and it drops to 650-700rpms. I shot some WD-40 in a couple years ago and it worked till recently. Will look into the Lokar cable in the near future.


My first car was an 81 Ford Fairmont and the throttle cable broke on me, back then you could find one at the auto store regularly, not so much today.
 
The loop is for the CC vacuum ball. When it's not there, it's just silly looking lol








Lokar cable



 
check the accelerator peddle shaft, where it bolts to the floor, for excessive wear.
 
Ok I've got it fixed, my old cable was frayed and a POS. Go to advance auto and get the cable, that's what I did today, they had it in stock, it's a 25 inch one and I think it's made by ATP. It fits perfect and now my throttle doesn't stick and pushes very nicely and easily. And it only cost me 17 bucks
 
old thread I know, but the 83 CUCV is doing the same thing... but u cant pull the pedal back or jiggle it back to zero, but it hops back into position when you cut the key off. Would that be a throttle cable issue if cutting the key/ignition off returns it to position? When it restarts its at a perfect idle.
 
83CUCVTX said:
old thread I know, but the 83 CUCV is doing the same thing... but u cant pull the pedal back or jiggle it back to zero, but it hops back into position when you cut the key off. Would that be a throttle cable issue if cutting the key/ignition off returns it to position? When it restarts its at a perfect idle.
Click to expand...
If shutting it off releases the pedal then it's not the cable.
Is yours still diesel or does it have a gas engine now?
 
Is there an eletric throttle kicker at the lever ? If so this may be sticking.
I have one to compensate for ac load at idle.
 
Here is an image of the set-up...new to the engine, not sure I can ID a throttle kicker. I've heard other forums talking about the green wire from the solenoid...remove it to see if it stops?

throttle.jpg
 
83CUCVTX said:
Here is an image of the set-up...new to the engine, not sure I can ID a throttle kicker. I've heard other forums talking about the green wire from the solenoid...remove it to see if it stops?

View attachment 495865
Click to expand...
On the diesel there is a throttle kicker and the governor sets the engine speed, I will get on one of my engines and take a picture and show what I feel could be you problem
 
83CUCVTX said:
Here is an image of the set-up...new to the engine, not sure I can ID a throttle kicker. I've heard other forums talking about the green wire from the solenoid...remove it to see if it stops?

View attachment 495865
Click to expand...


The only green wire in this pic. is attached to terminates at the high idle solenoid.

Edit to add...

Is the spring there and in good shape? Image is from the TM-20.

1737477123052.png
 
Last edited:
83CUCVTX said:
Here is an image of the set-up...new to the engine, not sure I can ID a throttle kicker. I've heard other forums talking about the green wire from the solenoid...remove it to see if it stops?
Click to expand...
This thing is the high idle solenoid (likely what @imiceman44 is calling a kicker). It is intended to hold a higher RPM when the engine is cold until thermal switches in the head open the circuit, then it should release when you open the throttle. You can unplug it to test if that curcuit is the problem. If the problem goes away with it unplugged, it is likely the thermal switch that has failed.

Screenshot_20250121_222354_Chrome.jpg
 
kennyw said:
This thing is the high idle solenoid (likely what @imiceman44 is calling a kicker). It is intended to hold a higher RPM when the engine is cold until thermal switches in the head open the circuit, then it should release when you open the throttle. You can unplug it to test if that curcuit is the problem. If the problem goes away with it unplugged, it is likely the thermal switch that has failed.

View attachment 495926
Click to expand...
Definitely on the list to unplug...ty ...don't see why we are restoring it, we can't leave it unplugged for a bit. Here is the curcuit for that area also

FAST IDLE CIRCUITS.docx.png
 
83CUCVTX said:
*while we are restoring it (meaning we can leave the idle off temporarily while we work on it/drive it around)
Click to expand...
Yeah you can.
And based on the temperature you could do without it completely.
I had an older diesel and the choke was manual cable and most times I didn't bother, it idled rough for 10 seconds then smoothed out
 
83CUCVTX said:
*while we are restoring it (meaning we can leave the idle off temporarily while we work on it/drive it around)
Click to expand...
That just means you have to hold the throttle manually until it is ready to idle on its own. Should not take more than 15-30 seconds with good glow plugs.
 
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