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Throttle Valve Cable Woes

MrSchaeferPants

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Started this as another post in the garage, but the OP wasn't neccessarily about it, plus it should be in here anyway.

Trans is having shifting problems. Pops in/out of OD on the freeway, shifts funky throughout, and I just have this 'feeling' of something lugging it down. The TV cable wouldn't adjust, push the slider in, pull on throttle linkage and it didn't ratchet out. I bought a new one and put it in, same thing. So I pulled the slider out (towards carb) held throttle wide open, pressed tab and pushed the slider back (firewall) until it felt like it should stop, this made it better, but it's far from good.

There is some sort of adapter for the 1406, correct one IDK. I ordered a B&M adapter should be in today. I'll see if it's any different than the one on the carb now. I remmeber it shifting just fine when I bought the truck and everything original including Q-jet. So it's something I did. Fluid is nice and red, doesn't smell burnt so I don't think I've grenaded it with improper TV adjustment (yet :whistle:) I did notice that when I hook the cable up to the carb, I need to pull it about a inch +/- to hook it up, meaning I feel the valve in the transmission being pulled up. For S&G I've also manually pulled on the cable (while off the carb) and it still doens't ratchet out.

I've seen the diagrams for the throttle plate geometry, I'll compare when I get my new adapter plate in.
 
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wait... i just reread your post.. your not setting it right.. and its setting, not adjusting.... don't touch the throttle, push d-button in, slide cable sheath to firewall, release d-button, then operate throttle to WOT...
 
wait... i just reread your post.. your not setting it right.. and its setting, not adjusting.... don't touch the throttle, push d-button in, slide cable sheath to firewall, release d-button, then operate throttle to WOT...

:doah:Nah the hooks on it, I can feel it pull back. I have read that article, and a few more. I have tried to adjust it the correct way as you wrote above. That is my problem, it will not auto adjust. I manually adjusted it and it got slightly better. I can't figure out why it won't auto adjust.
 
i would say it's gotta be in your geometry than.... any chance of posting a side shot pic?
 
Ya I'll get one posted tonight. Been spending the last couple days putting a new motor in my GFs 4runner. Imagine putting in a new motor (longblock) when you've never seen, let alone worked on a 3.0L V6 yota engine, when it's been taken apart down to the heads removed, sat for a year, covered in dirt, and parts, nuts and bolts laying around everywhere. Hasn't been fun. Gotta love old SBC engines... this yota design is crap. You know the timming belt drives the waterpump? Ugh...

I'll get a pic snapped tonight. :)
 
None of the aftermarket carbs have ideal tv geometry but the EDL and AFB are probably the best. That being said, having a tv correction lever on the carb will certainly help. Our company makes one, but so do others. Before you spend any money though, make sure the cable is adjusted correctly. The cable should have about an inch and an eighth of total travel from idle to wide open throttle, and at wide open throttle the cable should be as tight as it can possibly be. Have someone get in the cab and hold the throttle to the floor, check to be sure you are getting absolute wide open throttle at the carb. Many of the adjustment problems we help trouble shoot stem from linkage that is not allowing wide open throttle.
 
Heres pictures of the setup, and the new bracket I got, looks the same.

I'm going to figure out how to adjust or if need replace the throttle cable, because there is a lot of slop, and it's not opening WOT via the pedal.

IMG_5674.jpg

IMG_5675.jpg

IMG_5677.jpg


While I got the pictures up, how is the cruise supposed to be hooked up, and what do you guys do for the throttle return spring, since it no longer has the hole in the back to hook up to the stock location on the bracket?
 
The bracket you have needs to be further back and further down for the cables to have the correct relationship with your new linkage. If you are married to the Edelbrock carb then some modification of that bracket, or replacemnet with another more compatible item is in order. Holley sells a couple of brackets that might work for you in part numbers 20-95 or 20-97. My advise would be to hunt down a good Q-jet and restore peace and order to your engine bay, but that's just me.
 
i agree... the sheath isn't moving far enough to the firewall to take the slop out of the cable...

can't see what the deal is with that bracket as far as where it's mounted, but i bet a stock tbi one would fit hella better.. it mounts off the last 2 intake bolts... looks like that one may be mounted to the back of the carb? if so, keep in mind, it's an aftermarket intake, things may not be in the exact location as a factory, etc......



and again.......








DO NOT DRIVE THIS UNTIL IT IS FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Like ryoken said, you definately have the wrong bracket for a TV cable. The bracket you have is for use with a kickdown cable (not the same thing) and that is also why the cable doesn't line up straight with the B&M bracket.
 
I dunno, true about the aftermarket intake. I'm not married to that 1406 by any means, just kinda stuck with it for right now. Shoulda paid that extra money for her to leave when I'm done.

I can try to fabricate my own plate. But this carb will be on it for a little while, not trying to go broke with this thing, need some time before I can throw on a Q-jet again.

What you said about the bracket being wrong, it was all stock when I got it, and it shifted just fine with the Q-jet, stock intake manifold. If I could get a Q-jet to toss back on I would. Just can't right now. This would also explain why my accelerator cable now has slop in it.

Guess I can return that B&M adapter. Since it looks identical to the one on there. I they'd sell a bolt on that'd work? Says 'For GM applications with Edelbrock 4BBL' Oh well.

I think I found this site searching on CK5 about new Q-jets.
Part #: 36002

Cliff said he's backed up 8 months. Few things on CL but nothing jumping out at me.
 
try hunting down a tbi bracket.. heck, someone in here has to have one laying around off a parts truck.. do a wanted post... it'll get you WAY closer to where you need to be than what's on there... like Scott said, that's not even a tv bracket, it's actually for a kickdown cable...
 
here.. i just went and took a couple pics for ya to show the relationship of how far away the tv bracket should be... it's tbi, but same principal...

just be aware that i dont have the spcaers on for the bracket, so it'll be 1" higher in the end, which will correct the angle it needs now due to the tbi spacer...



000_0003_3.jpg






000_0001_4.jpg




and i was mistaken, it's the last intake bolt, and the raised boss on the intake for mounting...
 
Like ryoken said, you definately have the wrong bracket for a TV cable. The bracket you have is for use with a kickdown cable (not the same thing) and that is also why the cable doesn't line up straight with the B&M bracket.

Ya looking at the side of Ryoken's pictures I couldn't see it head on so I just googled the bracket, the openings appear to be ontop of eachother, where as mine are off-set. I'ma see if local pull-a-part has any. Are the brackets make/model dependent? Or could I grab a tv bracket from any truck with a 700r4 since the front clip/firewall/engine are all the same.
 
I wanna give up... New bracket. Still the same problem with it not ratcheting out, on the throttle, or me physically pulling it. Good news is with the new bracket my accelerator pedal is nice and tight again.
 
I just want to be clear: Do you have the "slider" all the way in/back?

In the photo above looks like it's sticking out a bit....

I'm gonna run the same carb for now when I do my engine swap. I just bought an Edelbrock throttle bracket (#8032 for Vortec intake), it looks like it will work, but I won't know 'till I install the motor...:whistle::dunno:

I still have the factory bracket, if it comes down to it I can make it fit.

Don't give up!
 
Yep, the pics you've posted the cable isn't all the way back (looks like maybe at least a 1/2" from being back all the way). The little "bullet" shaped piece will touch (or very close to touching) the large portion of the housing when it's back all the way. From that point is when you open the throttle to WOT so the cable can extend and SET itself to the proper position.
 
Yes I pushed the slider all the way back first. Those pictures where with me adjusting the slider a different way just to play with it, actually right now it's all the way back on my new bracket still. New stock cable, so I don't think that's not the problem.
 

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